Hey guys, I am building a commercial studio in Barbados, and have had the opportunity to start from scratch. I have designed the studio to be converted into a cottage, if required in the future. The studio is going to be used for professional recording and I have some but not a great need to worry about sound leaking out of the structure, as i have no close neighbors. My Control room is 18'3.5"L x 13'2" W x 8.5' H. (seen pic.1)
The Front and side walls are angled and the front of the ceiling is angled upwards to mix position and levels out at 8.5' (seen in pic.2).
There is a window in the front of the room leading into the live room, which is 5'4" W x 3'10" H.
My exterior walls are 8' cement brick, i have left a 2" airspace and then 3.5" studs with insulation and 2 skins of drywall. The floor is floated using Auralex U-Boat floaters, pine beams, with insulation between, covered with 3/4" ply, covered with carpet(seen in pic.3).
The 8.5' drywall ceiling is lined with insulation ontop, and above that is a large cavity airspace to a A-FRAME roof (also seen in pic.2)
I have a few questions:
Q: I plan to soffit mount the dynaudio m3a active monitors in my front walls and i was wondering if i should use hangars underneath? also should i leave an airspace at the bottom of the wall and another at the top for cooling?
Q: In the rear wall, what treatment would you recommend? I have thought about Hangers, inside out walls with stretched cloth, diffusors...not sure which suits my room best.
Q: In the A-Frame space, should use hangars? the drywall ceiling is already lined ontop with insulation but im assuming i will need some sort of bass trapping up there.
Q: In the angled side walls, would you recommend slot resonators? or could i just use store bought panel absorbers.
any other advice would be greatly appreciated. We are starting on the interior walls next week.
Thnx guys,
Adam.
New studio acoustic treatment
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 10739.
I'd block that floor framing up to stop the roll.
yea thats just where the wall goes. it will be sealed.
Do I detect U-boats there?
Why did you use them, you calculated the expected dead and live load? Do you know how those boats "work"?
(you sure didn't get that info from Auralex, that's why that stuff is kinda under "suspicious" mode here on the forum)
No im actually not sure.....How do they work? And what are my consequences? What would you suggest i do, i really appreciate your inputs thnx.
First of all, read this thread:
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8173
This thread will try to talk you out of doing a floating floor. But, pay close attention to the arguments. These are the issues when doing a floating floor, in particular this section:
How will you ensure that your floating floor will actually float? In order to connect two things to each other without the connection point being a bridge for energy to travel across, there must be an elastic polymer ("elastomer"), a spring-like rubber substance. DuPont's "Neoprene" and ethylene propylene diene monomer (EPDM) rubber are commonly referenced in floating floor designs and other engineered acoustic isolation construction devices. Imagine putting a 15 pound weight on a spring that "bottoms out" at 10 pounds. The spring is completely compressed. The weight is unable to bounce on this overloaded spring, and therefore is not isolated from the surface below. The same holds true of a lighter weight upon a heavier grade spring. Imagine a 10 pound weight on a spring that does not begin to compress until the weight reaches 15 pounds. The weight is too light to cause the spring to compress, so it too is unable to bounce, and is therefore again not isolated from the surface below. Now, imagine an entire room floating on springs made of rubber pucks. How do the rubber pucks deflect under the loads of the room? Are parts of the floor loaded more heavily than others? Are the walls erected on top of the floor, and if so, is the weight of the ceiling overhead transferred to those walls? If so, the perimeter of the room is much heavier than its unfurnished middle. How many pucks should be used? How far apart should they be positioned? Should they be closer around the perimeter to account for the additional weight of the walls and ceiling? How much closer? Should the elastomers around the perimeter be harder/stronger so as to handle the additional weight? What about the dynamic loads of the varying number of people and gear that will be inside the room? What about the lifespan of the elastomers under the loads -- how long will they last before they lose their elasticity and "bottom out," rendering them useless? These are not easy questions to answer! Exclamation Yet we often see cases where people either do not think of these questions, do not take them seriously when asked, or resort to guesswork when attempting to answer them! The fact is, a floating floor that is not engineered to account for all of the above questions is most likely doomed to fail to meet its designer's intentions. Couple this issue with the resonance frequency issue described previously, and you would almost certainly end up in an unenviable position of being worse off than if you had not attempted to float at all.
The floor is built. Are suggesting tearing it down and rebuilding the floor? AndreFirst of all, read this thread: http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8173 This thread will try to talk you out of doing a floating floor.
Andre, I'd suggest tearing it out and then loosing it completely. Better no floated floor than one that will cause issues. NO ONE KNOWS THE PROPERTIES OF THE AURALEX U_BOATS....... and there's a good reason why - Auralex has never had them tested. They were intended for a poor man's use - so they never invested any monies to determine how effective they actually are. As to the poster himself......... Phrequencustudios, I really have issues with Pro Studios using a format like this. If you don't have enough capital to do this right (which means to hire a professional acoustician to answer these questions) then you probably don't have enough capital to keep your business floating (no pun) while you build a client base and begin to turn a profit (anywhere from 6 months to 3 years depending on what clientel you might have who know your chops as an engineer). Hire a designer - a pro-studio is not worth putting money into of ot's going to suck when it's done - and you obviously don't know enough about the subject to make the real decisions on your own. Guess work here might work or might now work - either way - you take your chances. Also - read the stickies and follow the rules......... this is my first and last post here if you don't get that part of things together. Sincerely, RodThe floor is built. Are suggesting tearing it down and rebuilding the floor? AndreFirst of all, read this thread: http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8173 This thread will try to talk you out of doing a floating floor.
I agree. It is hard for me to know how to address obviously wrong things, without knowing basics like the budget, and what the poster even means by professional. Total agreement on what you wrote about those uboats. I tend to stay out of threads like this, unless prompted by friends' posts to add things, or observations that might have been overlooked like the floor being already constructed, in this case. AndreAndre, I'd suggest tearing it out and then loosing it completely. Better no floated floor than one that will cause issues. NO ONE KNOWS THE PROPERTIES OF THE AURALEX U_BOATS....... and there's a good reason why - Auralex has never had them tested. They were intended for a poor man's use - so they never invested any monies to determine how effective they actually are. As to the poster himself.........