Superdoor design variation

Just curious, I'm following Rod's recipe for the "superdoor" as outlined in the book. Just wondering about how people feel about a possible variation. I have some HEAVY solid core doors I picked up today with 3 ball bearing hinges. I built custom 5/4 stock door jambs (as of now, they have no stop). My plan was to pick up the sheet lead (about $145 per door for 3 doors - ouch!) tomorrow. Now, what I am wondering is: since I have 5/4 stock jambs I could leave more of the jam revealed after trimming than you would with 3/4 stock jambs. This would allow me to have a layer of finish plywood on the outside of the door as well as the inside, and have the plywood butt up to the jamb (be larger than the door by say a half an inch). I would then drill out some 1/2inch indentations in the jamb, and secure some super magnets flush with the outer edge of the jamb. I would then secure a metal strip on the back side of that 1/2 inch plywood reveal around the top and handle side of the door. Then, I would follow the recipe and do the double wood stops with another sheet of plywood on the front, but like Rod suggests, this layer would be smaller than the door to allow for the double stop. I would be in effect, adding another layer of gasket, and giving my door a secure magnetic stop that closed to the same spot every time. this would allow me to really get the trunk rubber to compress. If anyone has not worked with supermagnets before I assure you, they would close the door very, very tightly. In fact the issue would be keeping them secured to the jamb. Also, care would be made to make sure the door did not close too tightly. Any thoughts? Would this be a waste of time? Also, if I use green glue between both sheets of plywood and the door, does it make the sheet lead less important? That stuff is heavy and expensive. On the side with the sheet lead and plywood, should I put green glue under the lead, or under the plywood, or both?

Hi, Would you be totaly reliant on the magnets keeping the door closed, or would you also have a standard door handle and catch?

In fact, I would be relying only on the magnets to keep the door closed.

Might I ask where you're getting the sheet lead? I'm going to need to do the same very soon. Thanks.

Actualsizeaudio wrote:

Now, what I am wondering is: since I have 5/4 stock jambs I could leave more of the jam revealed after trimming than you would with 3/4 stock jambs. This would allow me to have a layer of finish plywood on the outside of the door as well as the inside, and have the plywood butt up to the jamb (be larger than the door by say a half an inch). I would then drill out some 1/2inch indentations in the jamb, and secure some super magnets flush with the outer edge of the jamb. I would then secure a metal strip on the back side of that 1/2 inch plywood reveal around the top and handle side of the door. Then, I would follow the recipe and do the double wood stops with another sheet of plywood on the front, but like Rod suggests, this layer would be smaller than the door to allow for the double stop.

5/4 stock jambs with intent for more reveal -- this means the trim would be set away from the hinges (the fulcrum) of the door right? Just make sure that the door either has a door stop on the floor in its swing path to stop it from openning all the way, or make sure that the hinge not set too deep in on the door and jamb. Both of these prevent the door from pinching the trim which may come in contact with the door on a full openning.