Question about basement stairway

Are the 2x4 'side rails' typically structural or simply a 'guide' to get you down without going off sideways (as in the pic below)? I understand I need the handrail, but can I remove the 2x4's when I 'enclose' the stairs? (There will be a wall on both sides.) I'm also assuming the supports below the stairs (halfway down) are necessary, as well as the 'double 2x4' vertical supports at the foot of the stairs.

"most times" the stairs are pretty much free standing as the opening in the floor above has doubled-up joists to frame out and support the floor around the opening... the 2x4 under the stair probably just makes the staircase stiffer and you can probably leave it. of course the best option is to have someone actually examine the structure to ensure that this is actually correct...

Take from this what you will - If you're aim is support and having a sturdy staircase, (for standard construction methods) with walls on either side of this stairwell, try to use the walls for support against the outside stringers (sides of the actual staircase). I have fixed "creek" noises in a couple of staircases because the consruction only had nails (or nothing) that connected one or both sides to the frame of the walls they butted up against. For the most stable suport of stringers, I've used long screws to secure them against the wall. Vibrations of foot traffic through the years will develop problems if a staircase isn't done right. With isolation however - this would couple the stringer (through the nails/bolts going through the drywall) with the frame. I did not do this as I opted to keep the supports underneath the stairs there. I'm not sure if you want to follow this example, but in my basement I put a decent trim board [1X12 pine] down the side of the stairs along the wall. That was screwed to the stringer in place, then the outside layer of drywall was screwed to this (free standing), then the 2nd layer of drywall - then the framing was attached to the two layers of drywall. So - this was the trim board along the staircase - This was the first piece of the wallboard going up - BuildThread IMO - Those rails are not for support of the stairs though. Looks like a simple hand rail and lower rail to keep kids from falling through.

MMazurek wrote:

... are necessary, as well as the 'double 2x4' vertical supports at the foot of the stairs.

Chances are good that the bottom of the staircase is not attached directly to the floor. If this is true, it could very well be the job of the vertical supports AND the 2x4 handrails to keep the bottom of the staircase from jumping around and pulling loose over time from foot fall.

I'm actually looking to remove the side rail 2x4's and leave the bottom supports where they are. The vertical double 2x4's are obviously supporting above, so I'm not messing with them. I'm looking at putting large double windows on both sides of the stairs to 'see through' to the other room. (like 3x5 foot panes x4) Double walls on both sides (or single with RC-f1 or RISC clips). I'd probably paint the stairway black and have a black carpet runner down the center to make it 'disappear' a little as it will obstruct the window view a little.

MMazurek wrote:

I'm actually looking to remove the side rail 2x4's and leave the bottom supports where they are.

This isn't an issue- the 2x4's are actually guards to keep kids from falling through the stairs....... if the stair is enclosed they are not required.

The vertical double 2x4's are obviously supporting above, so I'm not messing with them.

Well - you're going to walt to replace those anyway (or at least relocate them) . They are not located to allow for the installation of the drywall you will need for isolation - and (as you note below) probably RC as well.......... Just put in some temporary supports until your new frame goes int place - you can thejn loose the temps.

I'm looking at putting large double windows on both sides of the stairs to 'see through' to the other room. (like 3x5 foot panes x4)

That will be a nice effect if the windows are triangular to fit into the stair run/rise.

Double walls on both sides (or single with RC-f1 or RISC clips).

Double walls is always best........

I'd probably paint the stairway black and have a black carpet runner down the center to make it 'disappear' a little as it will obstruct the window view a little.

Not a good idea this - alothough it will look "kewl" it will also be a fall hazzard....... you need to be able to clearly see the stair threads of any stair........ Rod

Well - you're going to walt to replace those anyway (or at least relocate them) .

Where would I relocate them? They seem to be 'cheated in' a little at the top to support the double 2x8 above as well as the joists. (Above is the bottom of another stairway to the 2nd floor) You're right about them being in the wrong spot to complete the drywall space. You can see where the 1/2" drywall above stops. I assumed I'd continue down with the 1/2" drywall and build the 'stairway side' part of the double wall below the double joists on either side. (I should be able to encase those jack posts in there as well.) To do this, I'll have to also trim each step on the sides to be flush. They overhang an inch or so now. Since the 'stairway side' of the double wall will be a little weak in isolation, I was thinking the 'studio side' wall would be 2x5/8" drywall with green glue between. Should give 'pretty good' isolation from the stairway, better from upstairs, and complete from the room on the 'other side' of the stairway.[/quote]

Not a good idea this - alothough it will look "kewl" it will also be a fall hazzard....... you need to be able to clearly see the stair threads of any stair........

Didn't think of that. Maybe just paint the sides dark and go with a lighter runner/carpet. Also, I was thinking of laminated glass for the large windows and just getting it in 3x5 foot sheets (x4). That's the reason for painting the sides of the stairway dark. You'll see part of it through the window. I assumed it would be more expensive to get triangular or custom cut glass.