New to forum. Redoing drum/recording room. Question...

How thick should my walls be, should I float my floors (and if so, how), why is two leaf mass-air-mass design important, etc.

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tluke
Posts: 5
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 4:37 am
Location: Berkshires, Ma

New to forum. Redoing drum/recording room. Question...

Post by tluke »

Hello all. Gearslutz directed me here...

I will be redoing my drum/recording room soon. I wanted to ask about the walls, and about my intentions for the floor.

The room is about 12 by 14', and has cement on two sides. Faux wood paneling lines this cellar room right now, which i hate, and intend either to cover over with drywall or tear down and put up drywall.

My main complaint about the room right now is that it is very uninspirational to practice and record drums, because it is so dead. I would like to liven the room. I can always put down throw rugs afterward, if it is too live.

My questions are as follows, and thank you for taking the time to read this:

-If i angled either the sheet rock or plywood (if i use plywood) on two of the four walls in order to prevent parallel surfaces...how would i do this? IN other words, if the dry wall or plywood isn't completely flush with the wall, as it angles outward, then what does the angled part attach to? Are there shims that graduate outward as you go up, that the dry wall is fastened to? (my cousin will be doing the work for me, and is quite handy, so he should understand your construction speak even if i do not).

Thank you again very much,

tristan luke
knightfly
Senior Member
Posts: 6976
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
Location: West Coast, USA

Post by knightfly »

Tristan, first of all I'm not as eager to recommend things for basement dwellers since I briefly read through this paper -

http://www.buildingscience.com/resource ... ystems.pdf

As far as the acoustics part of things, a room that small is kind of borderline for actual splayed walls, since you lose about 2 feet of width for each 10 feet of wall length in order to minimise flutter echoes. Another way to accomplish nearly the same thing is to build slant-faced slot resonators for the side walls, and only use absorbers at front, top and rear of the room. These slat absorbers can be tuned to predominant modal frequencies of the room (a function of length, width, and height) in order to lessen the effect of modes, and the slanted faces form a "sawtooth" pattern along side walls, which directs early reflections away from your mix position and also fixes flutter echoes caused by parallel walls. This can be done with traps that are only about 8" deep on the deep side, and 5" deep on the shallow side of a 24" wide trap.

In order to calculate which frequencies the slot resonators should be tuned to, you need exact dimensions in all three planes - in fact, if you can do a basic drawing it would make things even easier to figure out.

The cool thing about slot absorbers is that they have wood surfaces which keeps the room from getting all the highs sucked out. while minimising the low mid "room boom" tendencies.

I'll let you read the above PDF file and think about what you already have, so we can figure out what to do about your concrete basement walls - I'll also need to know what your sound ISOLATION requirements are, if any... Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
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