John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum Archive

thanks - I have started another thread as I don't want to hijack this one, Any input is impreciated ! - http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... =1&t=17521

Thank you so much for sharing John!

NIce sketch!
Interested to note that the control room is not symmetrical as i keep reading on this forum that symmetry is important in the mixing room environment?
Matt

I'm not quite sure what you mean by "not symmetrical". The front half of the control room certainly is symmetrical, which is what matters.

- Stuart -

Hi Stuart - thanks for clearing that up _ I wasn't sure if the front walls were at the same splay angle and also how far back behind the mix position the symmetry had to continue. . .
Matt

I wasn't sure if the front walls were at the same splay angle

I think it's a bit of an optical illusion, due to the strange angles overall, but they actually are the same angles.

and also how far back behind the mix position the symmetry had to continue. . .

As far as possible! Realistically, as long as there is symmetry up to just past the mix position then things should be reasonably good, but 50% of the room is a better goal to aim for. Also, since this design has mostly absorption on the rear wall, that tends to improve things too.

- Stuart -

How do I make a Floor plan like John has done in this skp-file?

Ah.. Camera > Parallel projection

These drawing are very cool, and generous. I have a question. Is it for the sake of simplicity that in both drawings the soffit bezel would appear to be mechanically coupled to the soffit framing? Is it OK to build the soffit like a big cabinet all the way around? Or is it just not detailed in the drawings that the bezel is decoupled?

Almost everything I have read in this forum favors decoupling.

Is it OK to build the soffit like a big cabinet all the way around? Or is it just not detailed in the drawings that the bezel is decoupled?

It can go either way, actually. There's two schools of thought on this, but they both end up with the same result. The goal is this: prevent the speaker from transferring vibration to the baffle. You can do that either with the "brute force" method, which is basically to make the whole thing so massive and rigid that even an atomic bomb wouldn't make it vibrate, and the other is the "total isolation" method, which basically is to "float" the speaker such that there is no mechanical connection between speaker and baffle (or in other words, as you said: decouple it).

Either way, the baffle still has to be rigid and massive, so there's no difference there. The difference is in how you support the speaker. with the "decoupled" or "totally isolated" method, you use rubber to isolate the speaker from the box that keeps it in place, and personally I add a second layer of rubber to isolate that assembly from the rest of the soffit framing (sort of a "belt and braces" approach). In this case, you need to do the math to make sure that the rubber really is causing the speaker to float, because if it isn't floating, then you have the potential for numerous big problems. With this system, basically the speaker can move all it wants as it vibrates, but none of that is transferred to the structure

With the "brute force" approach, the speaker is mounted very rigidly, on a massive (heavy) frame, such that it cannot move. Some people use concrete blocks, other use sand-filled metal frames, bricks, or just massive wood. But even here it is advisable to keep the baffle and speaker separate, on different frames, if possible. John doesn't show that here, as this is just a simplified model, without all the details.

- Stuart -

Excellent. Thank you much.

I am considering both builds carefully. Instinct tells me it will be isolation for my individual needs at this time. I remember reading about the rubber calculations in the last few days, just don't remember where. I have only been reading 3 things though; this forum, MHoA, the Genelec tutorial. So it will be in one of those places.

Current link for the Genelec flush mounting tutorial is http://www.genelec.com/learning-center/ ... -mounting/ . (There are some older links in the forums that no longer work.)

-Mark

(There are some older links in the forums that no longer work.)

Thanks! If you do find links like that on the forum, then please let me know by PM where they are, and I'll try to fix them.


- Stuart -

Thanks a lot for sharing this with us!

I am planning to build three rooms like this, but I wonder if can alter the measurements. Like add 20% to all numbers. Or would I end up totally wrong?

Also, any suggestion where I could add a window in the CR to get light in, without ruining the acoustics?

between the speakers Ketil

Thanks a lot John! I will start a separate building thread when we start off.



Any thoughts on increasing the size by adding percents?

I have read thru this thread, but havent found any tips regarding this.

Here is my preliminary drawing. The main studio in red is not ready in the drawing yet.

I would love to have as much windows as I can into the "small studio in 3D" rooms ( marked in yellow ), also the entrance doors need to be moved

Is it maybe a possibility to make the doors into the LR? on one of them, and on the right side on the inner left CR?

Any hint is much apreciated