Paint Choice

[cfuehrer]

What is your recommedation for paint type, like latex, acrylic, oil, etc?

[knightfly]

That would depend on what's getting painted, how much abuse it will be subjected to, etc - for anything that's supposed to be absorbent, you need to be very careful and only use "non-bridging" finishes, applied carefully according to directions on the product. For high use areas, a semi-gloss repels dirty hand prints better. For any gypsum wallboard, you need a good high coverage primer under the finish coat or taping will show through, especially if there is bright light directed at the surface. If you're painting a floor, you need paints for that purpose - concrete can look really cool stained, although I've not done that personally and am not sure what all is involved.

If you want opinions from someone who does this for a living, check in at Home Recording and ask Jake-Owa in their studio forum - he's 'way more up to date on what's available now -

http://www.homerecording.com/bbs/forumd ... forumid=20

you'll probably have to sign up in order to post questions (if you're not already) but Jake's definitely knowledgable on this... Steve

[Paul Cavins]

Holy crap-

Are there actual differences in paint types for audio considerations?

That has to be over-the-top anal.


I am (like many musicians) a painter by day. I will answer any painting question I can.

BTW-if you are using a flat paint (one without a gloss finish), you need not prime over drywall. The taping showing through effects the sheen, so flat paint is not affected. Use a high-quality paint and no need to prime if paint is flat.


General rule: NEVER try to save money by buying lower quality paint. Just like in audio---crap in, crap out.


Paul Cavins

[knightfly]

Thanks Paul, and yes there are special paints for audio, if you consider trying to paint surfaces that are supposed to be porous - any of your "good quality" paints would be a big mistake on something like a fiberglas absorber panel, or acoustic foam, or celotex that's left exposed as a ceiling treatment. That's where you would look for a "non-bridging" paint - they are thinner, and will soak into fibers but not close them up... Steve

[Paul Cavins]

Ah, I see. This is a tricky business indeed. I was thinking of only your standard hard surfaces--

Paul

[cfuehrer]

Here's what Tim Brown on another forum board has to say:

I was a custom commercial painter for 7 years, and I worked on a lot of custom hi-end homes (90% of the homes that I did were over $500,000, and the most expensive one was a $7,000,000 home on the ocean - the guy designed golf courses.).

Rule #1. Use a quality paint.
I push Benjamin Moore for several reasons....no I don't make any money for using this product.

I've used Glidden, Dutch Boy, Pittsburg, Behr, Sherwin Williams, Porter, and a host of others. I personally prefer Benjamin Moore....it's a THICK paint, and will allow you to put on a heavy coat. Don't "cut " the paint. Some painters mix their latex paint with water to make it go farther...that's BS. It gives you a shitty texture, and it doesn't do what you're supposed to do, which is paint the walls.


Sherwin Williams paint has a heavy amount of Amonia in it, and the smell lingers aroun for awhile. Benjamin Moore's odor will be gone in a day or so.
Glidden/Porter paints tend to be thin....like water sometimes.

Behr and Pittsburg "upper" lines are good quality paints.


Sure, batter paint will cost a little more, but it IS worth it. Trust me.

Most of the "designer" paints are crap.

No matter what you do, you want a good coat of flat latex underneath....if you just put latex Eggshell, Semigloss, or gloss, on and you haven't put up Flat latex as a primer- it won't stick as well.

If it's fresh/new drywall - you want flat latex.

Rule #2. Buy QUALITY Brushes.
Don't waste your money on those cheapo disposables.

Buy a couple of Purdy or Wooster brand brushes. My personal favorites for all around use are Purdy 3" Sprigs, and 3" Boats. (These are styles of brushes....go to a paintstore that sells them, they will show you the different styles.)
Sure they cost more (between $14 and $30) but it's worth it. Think of these as the U87's of paintbrushes!

Get them to show you how to wash out the brushes, and KEEP the shuck/sleeve that they come in-once you've washed out your brush, and dried it (You can spin it in your hands...I have a "Spinner" that you put the brushes in that costs $14) put the brush back in the shuck to retain it's shape. Take care of these brushes-and they will be like luggage-you'll have the things for life.

When you paint your corners and do all of your cut in:
Once all your drywall seams are sandedif this is new work)
Go around with a paintbrush and paint all of your drywall seams, corners, etc., and let it dry.
Then do it again.
The paint you put on with a roller is a lot thicker than what you can apply with a brush.

After you roll the room with the first coat, then lightly sand the walls. then take a dry rag and wipe the walls down, then you're ready to paint the second coat.

If you sand between coats, the walls will feel like velvet.

When you roll, make sure that you "lead" with the end of the roller that actually attaches to the rolling pole - that's because you will tend to put more pressure on this end of the roller.
Watch for "gator tails"...if you lead with the open end, you are more likely to leave a little "trail" that looks just like an alligator's tail-hence the term "gator tail".

I would buy a quality nap (roller cover) in between a 1/4" and 1/2" pile...any larger than that and you start really slinging paint.

Get a snap lock pole and a wooster roller.


I hope some of this helps, if you have any questions feel free to ask, I'll be glad to answer anything tht I can.

You can get a stone kind of look buy using several coats of paint in different colors, and use different sized/kinds of sponges to apply them.

We did one place that looked like Stone walls from a castle - including "grout" lines....and it was cool looking.

So the procedure is:

1. Sand
2. Caulk the seams & wait 24 hours. If you paint over wet caulk and you'll ruin the integrity of the seal.
3. Cut in all your seams and drywall patches.
4. Prime with flat latex paint-walls and hardwoods (if you are painting them)
5.After this is dry, sand the walls (220 grit papet) and hardwoods(220 grit sanding sponge).
5.Wipe the walls and everything down with dry rags to help dust them. You can even use a broom.
6.Paint your first top coat.

Now, at this point, you have to decide:
Do you want 2 coats on your walls, or 3?( I'd go 3, and sand between the coats)
If you only want 2, you're there, and you can lightly sand your hardwoods and paint them again...that way you'll have 2 coats of

Take your time, and just remember-it's just paint.

If you don't know how to paint, look around for a local DIY center and see if they have painting classes. Don't be embarassed, there are a few tricks to painting and once you have them down, it's a breeze.

[knightfly]

Carl, good find - thanks for posting that, more than a few people will probably print it and add it to their "how to be a builder" notebooks... Steve

[Paul Cavins]

Now there is a paint guru for you-

[blackdrum]

hi,

i just cut 4 sheets of 3/4 MDF into 2, 3, & 4" slats to build slot resonators. I know that i have to paint each one (especially on the 'cut' side) to 'seal' the cancer-stuff inside (and to make it look nicer)

there is really no way to paint the 'cut' sides once you put the boxes together, and the thought of painting each one individually doesnt make me very happy. i actually attempted to paint a few, and the MDF literally 'sucks up' the paint on the 'cut' side. it would take days just to paint all the slats (about 150 of them!)

would it be OK to rent one of those sprayers from Home Depot? Of so, what kind of paint should i use? anyone know approx. how much they rent them for?

Thanks!

[knightfly]

There's no really easy way to do this - MDF, once you cut it, exposes all the porosity between all those little pieces of sawdust and glue. If you can get a belt sander, you can lessen the amount of paint the stuff "drinks" quite a bit. You just clamp each slat on edge and sand the edge smooth, being careful not to make "dips" in the edge by letting the sander stay in one place. Once it's smooth, it will not be quite as "thirsty" - I'd paint a couple of coats with slats separate, then put it together. Once it's together, the slightly rough edges won't show much (if any) - just be sure not to leave any runs or globs of paint on the edges if you put another coat on after assembly.

I'm not sure what they charge for rentals, anything I need more than once I usually just buy, depending on finances and how expensive it is. I'd call your local HD and ask them. Keep in mind, though, that spraying brings its OWN set of problems - if you go that way, buy several plastic drop cloths and a few rolls of masking tape, and cover EVERYTHING. Overspray will reach anywhere in the room and leave at least a light dusting on things... Steve

[cadesignr]

Hi! If it were me, and only had a roller, I'd clamp 10 pcs at a time together and sand then paint them like that, on both edges. I'd just roll it on if using latex. You could clamp them ALL togeather if you used a 2x4 with a couple of cleats on the ends. Probably would be heavy to turn over, but nothin is easy. Pull them apart before the paint drys though and lay them out on 2x4's across saw horses. Just an idea. Thats the way they do it at the shop I worked at, but they would use an airless to spray them. I don't think its that critical on the edges if you just roll them. After all, they wont hardly show in the slots. Might take a couple of coats depending on how much of a perfectionist you are. Laquer is the way I would go myself. But thats me. Another trick is to spray can em with white kilts. Acts as a good primer. Or roll em with it too. Many ways to do this. But flat latex is a good latex primer also if your going to use a latex satin or semi gloss finish.
In that case, I would definetly rent an airless. That way you can lay out all the pcs on the sawhorse/2x4 flat, and spray the edges as you do the face. Well, enough of my .03
fitZ