John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum Archive

Hi,

I believe I've read that the screws with square drive (as opposed to phillips, for example) are very good for using with a power tool to insert.

If you are putting such screws through a layer of 1" plywood into a 2x2 board, would you drill a pilot hole first, or just screw it in?

Thanks,
-lee-

Yeah, the square drive is MUCH better than phillips - they don't have anywhere NEAR the tendency to strip the heads when driving, and require a LOT less pressure when driving to avoid that problem.

The state most lumber is in these days (knots, cracks, etc) I would recommend pilot holes with anything less than a 2x4, and possibly even then.

If you don't have, and don't want to buy, a second drill (or screw gun) Ryobi and others make a kit with drivers and stuff, that have an insert that you chuck in your drill, then you just swap hex bits to drill or drive. Saves some time and lets you put in a couple of screws in each piece to stabilize the assembly, before putting in the rest of the screws.

I personally use separate power tools; a drill with a pilot, and a screw gun with either a depth-adjust sleeve or torque limiting clutch. Makita makes a screw gun that does either, that's the one I use. Both tools are corded, I hate trying to keep up with battery charging when I'm on a roll... Steve

You rock - thanks for the quick detailed reply!

Of course, I have another total neophyte question:

How do you determine the size drill bit to use for the pilot hole? Do you drill it so the hole is about the size of the "shaft" of the screw,letting the spiral that sticks out of the shaft bite into the wood?

Thanks again,
-lee-

Yeah, unless you're screwing into solid rock (too kinky even for me :=) you want the pilot hole to be just a little smaller in diameter (teensy bit) than the BODY of the fastener, so ALL the threads engage the wood and try to spread the wood just slightly when the fastener is bottomed out. That way you have maximum holding power, with enough friction so the fastener won't vibrate loose over time, and yet not enough "splitting" power to cause the wood to crack. The pilot hole where the fastener is smooth, should be as close to exact size as possible.

Most screws you buy are sized like #8, #10, #12, etc - you can buy pilot sets that cover the basic sizes, like 6-8-10-12, some of them have separate drill bits as part of the pilot - you can loosen a set screw and adjust the bit depth to match the length of your screw, while only needing 4 basic pilots for 4 different diameters. Those are the best (IMO) pilot sets to get, since there are times when you need a 2" long, skinny screw (man, this just keeps gettin' kinkier :=)

OK, I'll shut up now and go take my medication... Steve

Thanks! Thats just the info I needed. I'm getting ready to put together a bunch of wood stuff (absorbers, and custom desk with rack and computer iso section), and I appreciate the help.

-lee-

Have you guys tried power screw drivers like these??



The screws come in clips like nail guns do.

cheers
john

John Sayers wrote:Have you guys tried power screw drivers like these??



The screws come in clips like nail guns do.

cheers
john

Yep. I've seen those. 100 bucks at my local Home Depot. May be worth getting one when it comes time to sheetrock.

Yeah, I've seen those too - only in my case, replace the "maybe" with a "hell, yeah" - there's no way I'll NOT have one of those babies when it's time to rock... Steve

Why is Aussie wall board is purple??

Why is Aussie wall board is purple??

Royalty mate - aussies are pure Royalty :)

cheers
john

John Sayers wrote:

Why is Aussie wall board is purple??

Royalty mate - aussies are pure Royalty :)

cheers
john

I HAD to ask!