Indonesian Control Room
Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 4:50 pm
Hi everyone, first time post here.
I'm from UK but living in Indonesia for the foreseeable future. I've got a lease on a building that eventually I want to convert it all into media use, but for now it just has plans for the groundfloor and to start with, just the control room in the garage for mixing in, but maybe in future it can turn into a drum room for tracking. I am more than likely to hire an acoustic consultant for the acoustics but I'm trying to learn as much as I can regarding the soundproofing side of things, so please be gentle
The original walls are 6" masonry, along with either a 4" or 6" masonry slab for the floor above and the ground floor is sat on a raised earth and concrete foundation. To protect the original tiled floor I plan to use a 76mm steel frame grid, loaded with sand and glasswool, with 5mm rubber strips on top of the frame, with a layer of 15mm plywood, 5mm rubber, then another layer of 15mm plywood. Do I make things worse by using the sand filled frame? Or can i fix the U runners directly on layers of plywood lining the original tiled floor? I only want to protect the tiles, I know I'm not going to match the resonance of the foundation
The original dimensions of the garage are 606cm Length, 348cm Width, and 360cm Height to the concrete ceiling, and it has a metal rolling door at the main entrance. To help with the room modes I plan to shorten the room so the main space has interior drywall dimensions of 480cm Length, 320cm Width and 350cm drywall height, with a 14" insulation filled 'drop ceiling' covered with fabric. There will then be another partition with no access door to create a two leaf structure for the rolling door wall, however I am wondering whether the metal door would act as a third leaf - I want to keep the rolling door in place, would I be better off not building this 'dead air' partition and instead putting plywood and drywall layers on the exterior side of it?
Structurally, I plan to use metal studs, my contractor said he can build the whole frame to not touch the walls or ceiling, but I'm not sure how So if there was a runner on the plywood floor and a runner fixed into the original concrete ceiling, with a new drywall ceiling fitted from the new studs 10cm below that, filled with 10-15kg glasswool, will this provide enough decoupling? The cavity between the original masonry walls and the first plywood layer would be around 4-5", can I just stuff that whole cavity with the glasswool blanket or will I be better off with an air gap and 60kg rockwool sat in just the frame? I'm not sure how to fit a layer of rockwool directly onto the masonry wall, glue?
The drywall layers will consist of 2 layers of 15mm plywood, 1 layer of 15mm fire rated drywall, 1 layer of polymer modified bitumen to act as a deadsheet, then finally another layer of 15mm drywall. Would the 2 sheets of plywood be alot more effective than 1 layer or can I just use one?
Ventilation wise I plan to have a 6" vent in both the control room and the 'dead air' partition, with soffit boxes either side, and fit a split inverter AC with 3" pipe wrapped in insulation to control the condensation of the AC.
I apologise for the lack of sketchup drawings, I hope my paint mockups provide enough information to go along with this text, looking forward to all of your opinions!
Many thanks,
Muz
I'm from UK but living in Indonesia for the foreseeable future. I've got a lease on a building that eventually I want to convert it all into media use, but for now it just has plans for the groundfloor and to start with, just the control room in the garage for mixing in, but maybe in future it can turn into a drum room for tracking. I am more than likely to hire an acoustic consultant for the acoustics but I'm trying to learn as much as I can regarding the soundproofing side of things, so please be gentle
The original walls are 6" masonry, along with either a 4" or 6" masonry slab for the floor above and the ground floor is sat on a raised earth and concrete foundation. To protect the original tiled floor I plan to use a 76mm steel frame grid, loaded with sand and glasswool, with 5mm rubber strips on top of the frame, with a layer of 15mm plywood, 5mm rubber, then another layer of 15mm plywood. Do I make things worse by using the sand filled frame? Or can i fix the U runners directly on layers of plywood lining the original tiled floor? I only want to protect the tiles, I know I'm not going to match the resonance of the foundation
The original dimensions of the garage are 606cm Length, 348cm Width, and 360cm Height to the concrete ceiling, and it has a metal rolling door at the main entrance. To help with the room modes I plan to shorten the room so the main space has interior drywall dimensions of 480cm Length, 320cm Width and 350cm drywall height, with a 14" insulation filled 'drop ceiling' covered with fabric. There will then be another partition with no access door to create a two leaf structure for the rolling door wall, however I am wondering whether the metal door would act as a third leaf - I want to keep the rolling door in place, would I be better off not building this 'dead air' partition and instead putting plywood and drywall layers on the exterior side of it?
Structurally, I plan to use metal studs, my contractor said he can build the whole frame to not touch the walls or ceiling, but I'm not sure how So if there was a runner on the plywood floor and a runner fixed into the original concrete ceiling, with a new drywall ceiling fitted from the new studs 10cm below that, filled with 10-15kg glasswool, will this provide enough decoupling? The cavity between the original masonry walls and the first plywood layer would be around 4-5", can I just stuff that whole cavity with the glasswool blanket or will I be better off with an air gap and 60kg rockwool sat in just the frame? I'm not sure how to fit a layer of rockwool directly onto the masonry wall, glue?
The drywall layers will consist of 2 layers of 15mm plywood, 1 layer of 15mm fire rated drywall, 1 layer of polymer modified bitumen to act as a deadsheet, then finally another layer of 15mm drywall. Would the 2 sheets of plywood be alot more effective than 1 layer or can I just use one?
Ventilation wise I plan to have a 6" vent in both the control room and the 'dead air' partition, with soffit boxes either side, and fit a split inverter AC with 3" pipe wrapped in insulation to control the condensation of the AC.
I apologise for the lack of sketchup drawings, I hope my paint mockups provide enough information to go along with this text, looking forward to all of your opinions!
Many thanks,
Muz