gabo wrote:Gregwor wrote:Ok once you have the details, let us know. Depending on what is used and how its applied it could add significant mass to that leaf ad the extra drywall might not be necessary.
The issue with siding/cladding/sheathing/whatever you want to call it, is that it isn't snug to the sheathing. My house has Hardie Board siding on it which is super heavy, but there are voids between it and the OSB sheathing. Having said that, I highly suggest just adding the extra sheathing mass before the siding goes up. As anyone who's done it can testify, beefing up from the inside is a ton of work.
Greg
Thanks guys, that's the best solution.
quick question - Does the loss of sound through the wall also reduce the level of that frequency inside? Maybe that's not clear. For example, a standard household wall supposedly transfers from about 70hz and below straight through it. Does that also mean that you'll have a loss of SPL from 70hz and below on the inside?
It seems logical to me that if frequencies just pass through, that they are lost forever and that those frequencies would be reduced compared to a wall that they wouldn't pass through. Is that true?
At any rate, I think the STC-63 construction is what we're going to plan for regardless of what type of exterior siding is installed. As Greg correctly states, that exterior siding isn't that tight to the wall and indeed if it's any type of vinyl siding, the proper way to install that is actually loose. A proper install actually has the nails not even hammered all the way in, but just slightly out.
On another note - This project has taken a turn for the worse with the corona virus situation. The appraisal for the post building structure has been reduced to the point that it is below the cost of the construction. This makes it impossible to convert the construction loan into a mortgage. Also, many of the people involved are not working at this time. It'll all get done, it just may delay a lot of the construction to a year or more and possibly downsize some things. I don't think the studio space will be down sized, but not sure.
In the meantime, I'll continue to learn and understand, so it's all good. By the time we get there, maybe I'll know what I'm doing
gabo
I'm sorry to hear that, but it may actually be a blessing in disguise: giving you much more time to design it and more importantly understand the why's and how's.
As I pointed out in my post above, the exterior siding is not always loose or with a void behind it, it depends on the design. For example, you could use cement board directly over the OSB and apply stucco, or just simply paint it.
However, sounds like you are going to have a rain screen style siding with a void behind it, so you can discount any extra mass that would have added and add extra mass to the wall before applying the siding.
But, to answer your question, yes, the thinner your walls are the less sound is reflected back into your room which can be very beneficially, acoustically speaking especially for low frequencies, which are the only real problem for relatively small rooms, or the most difficult to treat anyway.
So, as said before if you are not worried about isolation then just build lossy walls and let all that low end escape instead of being reflected back into your room causing problems! you'll still need some treatment, but it won't be as much as you'd need if you were building concrete bunkers.
Again, the only issues you're going to have if you do that is fighting against the noisy elements and wildlife, the rest of the house and leakage between recording space(s) and control room.
If you're not bothered by that or can make it work, then save yourself a hell of a load of time and money and build lossy assemblies!
Paul