One of their reps lives up toward my area and does business around here, so he is going to bring it up next week free of charge. I'll just need to drive 30mins. Beats paying for shipping.
That's awesome! To even the playing field, I can get OC703 about 15 min away It seems a lot of people have troubles finding it. I guess we win some and lose a lot.
My local home hardware also has a Grade 3 (400000 uses vs the 2mil for Grade 1) Commercial door closer rated for 187lbs. They think it would likely serve. Given that my door isn't going to be a 300lbs sand door, how to we feel about that? Doesn't hurt that it is also half the price.
Of course I'd hate to tell you "Yes!, go buy that one!" because I can't guarantee it will work well or not. But, if I were you, I would probably go for the Home Hardware one and expect it to work fine.
Greg
It appears that you've made the mistake most people do. You started building without consulting this forum.
That's awesome! To even the playing field, I can get OC703 about 15 min away It seems a lot of people have troubles finding it. I guess we win some and lose a lot.
Yeah eh? Nice to have it close for you!
Of course I'd hate to tell you "Yes!, go buy that one!" because I can't guarantee it will work well or not. But, if I were you, I would probably go for the Home Hardware one and expect it to work fine.
That’s what I was thinking. Thanks!
Also, day 3 done. All the drywall is up,, insulation is in walls, electrical is installed! Window and door next week. Also, question re: ceiling insulation. They recommended using vapour barrier to hold it up, but seeing as it is an airtight space, I feel like that could be problematic with the humidity. What do you think?
Thanks, and stay safe amidst all that is going on!
Also, question re: ceiling insulation. They recommended using vapour barrier to hold it up, but seeing as it is an airtight space, I feel like that could be problematic with the humidity. What do you think?
Sorry, who is "they"? John recommends putting up a super thin plastic film to keep fibers from falling. Personally, I'm not afraid of it and have been working in rooms filled with insulation that is only covered by fabric for many years pretty much every single day. But maybe I'm an idiot for doing so. My biggest concern with covering it is high frequency reflections. I'd like to hear some more opinions on both the pros and cons of having it as well as any installation recommendations such as material and placement.
Greg
It appears that you've made the mistake most people do. You started building without consulting this forum.
Sorry, who is "they"? John recommends putting up a super thin plastic film to keep fibers from falling. Personally, I'm not afraid of it and have been working in rooms filled with insulation that is only covered by fabric for many years pretty much every single day. But maybe I'm an idiot for doing so. My biggest concern with covering it is high frequency reflections. I'd like to hear some more opinions on both the pros and cons of having it as well as any installation recommendations such as material and placement.
Sorry about that. Should've been more clear. My friend who has been building it with me and general recommendation of construction folks for the ceiling. No one who does vocal booth building, which is why I thought I'd check.
Personally, I'm more in your camp. Was thinking of maybe finding a mesh type thing and then putting the cloth over it, but not a plastic sheeting.
Was thinking of maybe finding a mesh type thing and then putting the cloth over it, but not a plastic sheeting.
Mesh would be great. If you're careful cutting the insulation, you can probably get away with just putting the fabric up and not worry about the insulation sagging or falling out. If the insulation is loose, some cheap string stapled onto the ceiling joists will hold it up too.
Greg
It appears that you've made the mistake most people do. You started building without consulting this forum.
If the insulation is loose, some cheap string stapled onto the ceiling joists will hold it up too.
Smart! I may just do that. Likely easier and cheaper than mesh. Also, regarding insulation, unlike proper methods for home walls, if the rockwool is quite snug for the booth, that's fine, right? As in, don't leave any real airspace. I feel like I remember reading that on this site, but I can't find it right now, nor can I find it in Rod's book.
Also, any suggestions on the best type of cloth to use? I was assuming something with a bit of stretch, but realized it might be just as easy to buy some plain king size sheets, staple, and trim. Thoughts?
Also, regarding insulation, unlike proper methods for home walls, if the rockwool is quite snug for the booth, that's fine, right? As in, don't leave any real airspace. I feel like I remember reading that on this site, but I can't find it right now, nor can I find it in Rod's book.
Insulating in general is all the same. Snug with no voids anywhere, but not compressed.
Also, any suggestions on the best type of cloth to use? I was assuming something with a bit of stretch, but realized it might be just as easy to buy some plain king size sheets, staple, and trim. Thoughts?
I've read mixed thoughts by pros. Some say the cloth doesn't matter. Others say it needs to be super breathable (meaning it's not restricting your breath when you hold it against your mouth. A super breathable, stretchy and affordable material I've used in the past is called "speaker cloth" and you can buy it at Fabricland. It used to come in white, beige and black. Now, you can only buy it in black.
I recommend painting the faces of your studs the same color as your fabric to prevent you from seeing the studs as much.
Greg
It appears that you've made the mistake most people do. You started building without consulting this forum.
Insulating in general is all the same. Snug with no voids anywhere, but not compressed.
Great. I'll make sure of that then.
I've read mixed thoughts by pros. Some say the cloth doesn't matter. Others say it needs to be super breathable (meaning it's not restricting your breath when you hold it against your mouth. A super breathable, stretchy and affordable material I've used in the past is called "speaker cloth" and you can buy it at Fabricland. It used to come in white, beige and black. Now, you can only buy it in black.
Awesome. My wife is actually working in a nearby town this weekend that has the only Fabricland for over an hour in any direction, haha! I'll call them tomorrow to see if they have any in stock and, if so, see if she can pick some up. Given the stretchiness, do you still buy at a 1:1 ratio for the square footage of the walls and ceiling?
I recommend painting the faces of your studs the same color as your fabric to prevent you from seeing the studs as much.
Smart. I'll see how I feel about seeing them when I get the fabric, and if I don't like I'll paint over them.
Great! Thanks for that. I just called them. They have some. It's like $15 per meter. A little cheaper if you pay for a membership (which effectively costs the equivalent of the discount, lol). I could install more drywall inside at that price, haha. So I'm gonna wait on it til the rest of the booth is finished to make sure it is quiet enough before I buy the fabric. Could be a while, though, with all the social distancing going on.
Hope you're all doing well! I've been slowly working away at the booth while stuck in the house the past two weeks. Other than finishing touches, I just need to install the door, windows, and lay down the floor. I had a couple questions before fully tackling them, though.
For the floor, I actually have the perfect amount of a really nice engineered wood leftover from when the previous owners redid the kitchen floor in our house. Is there any reason not to use it? Couldn't find a ton of info on the web, but it seems like hardwood isn't a bad choice, especially if the ceiling is absorbent (which it is with just the roxul and drywall behind it). Worth it? Or should I really go find some vinyl flooring? I can always through a small rug on part of it too to absorb some high end, though I don't see that helping much.
Also for the floor, I put caulking where the frame meets the underlay. When laying the flooring, do I need to put something between it and the frame/trim so they don't touch at all to avoid coupling?
Regarding the window, I was able to get 2 1/4in laminate panes (none of the glass companies that make anything thicker anywhere in my area are open and shipping right now). I am going to place them at least 3in apart for air gap.
Does it make any sense to use a router to make a 1/4 groove in the frame to set the glass in (on setting blocks and caulking) and then put stops inside and out? Or is that just overkill? Also, if it isn't as tight as I would like for the fit, can I use shims to fit it snug and caulk inside those cavities?
For the floor, I actually have the perfect amount of a really nice engineered wood leftover from when the previous owners redid the kitchen floor in our house. Is there any reason not to use it? Couldn't find a ton of info on the web, but it seems like hardwood isn't a bad choice, especially if the ceiling is absorbent (which it is with just the roxul and drywall behind it). Worth it? Or should I really go find some vinyl flooring? I can always through a small rug on part of it too to absorb some high end, though I don't see that helping much.
The engineered wood would look great and be fine to use
Also for the floor, I put caulking where the frame meets the underlay. When laying the flooring, do I need to put something between it and the frame/trim so they don't touch at all to avoid coupling?
You could just leave an ~1/4" gap between the flooring and the sole plate. That should be enough. If you're concerned about the floor shifting and flanking, you could fill the gap with small 1/4" backer rod.
Does it make any sense to use a router to make a 1/4 groove in the frame to set the glass in (on setting blocks and caulking) and then put stops inside and out? Or is that just overkill?
You could do that for sure. You clearly understand the idea of sealing it and floating it. As long as you achieve the goals I think you're good to go!
Also, if it isn't as tight as I would like for the fit, can I use shims to fit it snug and caulk inside those cavities?
I don't fully understand your concept here. If I understand correctly, then yes, that would be fine. As long as it's air tight and there isn't a surface density void, you're good to go.
Greg
It appears that you've made the mistake most people do. You started building without consulting this forum.
The engineered wood would look great and be fine to use
Great!
You could just leave an ~1/4" gap between the flooring and the sole plate. That should be enough. If you're concerned about the floor shifting and flanking, you could fill the gap with small 1/4" backer rod.
That’s a great idea. It’s a floating floor, so that might be the best idea.
You could do that for sure. You clearly understand the idea of sealing it and floating it. As long as you achieve the goals I think you're good to go!
Perfect. I may end up not using the router since my friend is unable to help for the next while due to COVID stuff. I did have one question. If I go the regular, non router method, I put setting blocks on all four side? Rod’s book says “same for all four sides” regarding window setup, but there’s no mention of glueing the blocks and I can’t see how the sides can hold them otherwise.
I don't fully understand your concept here. If I understand correctly, then yes, that would be fine. As long as it's air tight and there isn't a surface density void, you're good to go.
Question regarding the door though. I realized that we framed with the idea of using a 2x6 on one side for the hinges, but that actually doesn't leave any space on the other side put a thin veneer or piece of wood to cover over the drywall edges and 2x4 stud. My options right now seem to be to tear out one of the two studs on the non-hinge side and install a 2x6 door jamb on both sides, or to use a thinner jamb for the hinges and then a thin piece on the non-hing side as a covering. I could also use 5/8 mdf on both sides without a problem, but I feel like the door weight can't handle it, even if the door is only going to weigh 150lbs or so.
The issue is that the hinges are on the side that doesn't have the stud, so I can't use long screws to grab the studs and further support the door jamb.
It seems a lot of people have troubles finding it. I guess we win some and lose a lot. 