2 things.Here are the latest sketches:
1. Do a quick Google search to see the industry standard for framing door rough openings. Your trimmer stud and header needs adjustment. I also don't think you need to sister up the cripples.
2. I would use 3 single noggins in the first stud bay rather than 2 sistered noggins.
Remember, if you use a bank vault style sealing system on your door, that's 2 layers of sealing... let's just say they are even 1/2" for each seal, that means you have 1" eaten up on each side of the door. So, your opening will be 2" narrower. For 4731 seals, I believe those are 3/4" each. So your door ends up being at least 3" more narrow. For that reason alone I recommend building your doors out of 3 foot wide slabs.thinking about moving the door to make more space for a radiator, also thinking smaller doors
Your rough positioning of the boxes is not ideal in that the air flow won't really circulate the entire room. Chances are the air will take the shortest path and just rip from the one to the other. Ideally you want supply on one end of your room and the return on the other end. If that's not possible, place them as far apart as you can.- duct boxes size, position and support - my first versions are a bit bigger than necessary. When they are a bit smaller I think the outer boxes will just fit between the leaves. I'm not going to redesign the exact positions until I break open the legacy stud wall and check exactly where/how the legacy ducting runs behind the wall.
A quick glance at Rod's design for that guy shows me that he is introducing several cross sectional area (let's refer to that as CSA) changes throughout the box. There are pros and cons to his design.I understand the general concept but TBH I'm lost with Greg's diagram compared to Rod's sizing.
Initially his inlet does not introduce a CSA change. Instead the change is made via the baffles, making the CSA smaller. The issue with this is that it adds a lot of static pressure. Put 4 of these boxes in your room and you've introduced a buttload of static pressure.
Check this thread: I posted a static pressure calculator on it (there might be a fancier version on it's way in the near future )
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... =1&t=21752
Typically, you want the CSA within the box to be as big as possible. This allows for less static pressure, more insulation for better insertion loss. If your system can handle the extra static pressure, feel free to make some smaller CSA portions in the box. Remember, for better insertion loss, the greater the CSA change, the better. Check these out for reference: As you can see, it is a trade off. The larger the CSA change, the better. But, the bigger the CSA, the thicker the duct liner should be. So, what I'm getting at is that you should have at LEAST 2 times the CSA inside your box than the duct that is feeding it. If you can have more static pressure, shrink the CSA in the box (at some point... let's just say at the middle baffle) to half the CSA of your duct that is feeding the silencer. That way, you have a CSA ratio change of 4. This all depends on your total static pressure of your system and whether or not your fan can handle it.
Typically people are doing their best to find a place to fit a silencer box. Often people only have 10 or 12" to fit one in. My little design guide image there allows for a quick way to figure out the biggest CSA possible while fitting into these tight spots. If you need more guidance with it, let me know.This diagram is a great way to try and get this across but TBH I just don't get it yet! I'll try again
For your climate and the fact that it is an exterior wall, I believe you do need it.Vapour barrier - as in the last post, do I need one
This is always so hard to explain.. I really just need to draw up a diagram already.how does it work where I have the transition between inner leaf that is opposite an internal wall, and inner leaf that is opposite an external all
The basic rule of thumb is to have your barrier on the cavity side of your inner leaf sheathing... no different than a typical home build where a basement frost wall is covered with barrier and then drywall is installed directly on top of the barrier. The transitional spot between the rest of your house and your sound room, you can just place the barrier to span the gap between the two. This cavity will be filled entirely with insulation.
Unless someone can correct me on this, that is how I believe it should be done. Barrier and the fear of mold is a scary subject and it's awesome that you're actually trying to deal with it properly!
Greg