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Help required for a Simple Ventilation System

Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2019 2:05 pm
by tonym2410
Hi there, 1st time poster.

I'm building a soundproof home recording studio.

I plan to have a split system air conditioner which only circulates air within the room.
I've read about the Daikin US7 that brings in fresh air and humidifies but its had bad reviews here in Australia saying its noisy and too cold or not working properly.

I need to build a ventilation system that extracts bad air out and bring fresh air in.

I have a rectangle area designated for this which is 2.7metres in height and 30cm wide.

To extract the air out I could have a vent at the bottom on the inside of the room and put an exhaust fan at the top outside the room and build a zigzag system within the wall, but how do I get fresh air in?

Any help would be appreciated. Oh, and did I say I'm on a tight budget?

Re: Help required for a Simple Ventilation System

Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2019 2:23 pm
by Soundman2020
Hi "tonym2410". Please read the forum rules for posting (click here). You seem to be missing a couple of things! :)

HVAC for studios is a huge subject. Much bigger than most first-time studio builders expect. When I'm designing a studio, I often spend as much time on the HVAC system as I do on the structural and acoustic aspects...

The basic concept is:
- Calculate the volume of the room, and assume you need to circulate that volume 6 times per hour (minimum, preferably 8 )
- Of that circulating volume, you need to exhaust somewhere between 20% and 30% to the outside world, and replace it with the same volume of fresh air.
- If the room is high occupancy (eg, small live room for tracking an orchestra or choir), you might need to increase both of those, to ensure that you are removing enough CO2, and replacing it with enough O2 to keep everyone happy, healthy, and (worst case) alive.
- Once you know the total volume of air that you will be moving (air flow rate), you need to figure out how big the registers need to be, to keep the air flow velocity below 300 fpm.
- With all of that in mind, you can calculate the sizes of your ducts and silencer boxes (sometimes also called "baffle boxes" or even "mufflers").
- The silencers need to be designed with a certain insertion loss in mind, which means "how much sound do the stop?" The insertion loss of each silencer needs to be similar to the design isolation level of the room it is attached too.
- You can increase insertion loss by making the box heavier (more mass in the building materials used to make it), or longer, or putting more baffles in it, or using thicker baffles, or having several changes in air flow direction, or changing the cross-sectional area by a factor of at least two (preferably much more). Usually it's a combination of all of these.
- All of that increases the static pressure of your air flow path, so you need to take care to keep it within the range of the fans and/or AHU that you intend to use to drive the air through it.
- If your static pressure is too high, the fan won't be able to move the air correctly, the fan blades will stall / create turbulence / be noisy, the motor will work too hard and burn out too soon. Etc.

The above is the part related to ventilation. Now comes the part related to cooling:
- To dimension the actual cooling capacity of the AHU, figure out the total heat that will be produced in the room from things like people, lights, equipment, hot food, musical instruments, etc, plus take into account the climate (hot air coming in through the fresh air duct from outside), plus possible heat coming in through windows, walls, roof, etc (usually not an issue in studios). Calculate all that in watts, convert to BTU or tons of cooling required.
- That's your "sensible heat load", but you also need to consider the "latent heat load": due to humidity in the air. The AHU cannot actually cool the air much if it is very humid, until the humidity is first removed... which happens by condensation on the cooling coils inside the AHU. So you need to factor in the latent heat load in the studio, from the climate itself and from the moist air exhaled by the people, and from any other sources (if there's half a dozen pizzas in the room, and twenty beer mugs, that's extra moisture... ). Convert the latent heat load to BUT or tons, as above.
- The capacity of the AHU needs to be sufficient to handle both the latent heat load and the sensible heat load for the worst case scenario: Room fully occupied by a bunch of hot, sweat, smelly musicians on the hottest most humid day in mid summer, with all of them eating and drinking copiously, while the jam hard and fast, getting hotter and sweatier, producing a lot of body heat, and exhaling lots of moisture, with all the lights, equipment and instruments going full bore.
- It also needs to be able to deal with the other "worst case scenario": one single person in the room, sitting quietly, doing nothing at all, with most of the gear and lights off, and no food or drink.
- The AHU needs to be able to handle both of those while maintaining RH at around 40% or so, and air temperature in the room at around 21° or so.
- If you have multiple rooms, then do the above for each of the rooms separately. Assuming you have once single AHU for all of them, then you'll also need to design a control system that automatically adjusts the flow to each room as needed, sensing changes in the conditions inside the room (temperature, humidity, CO2 level, etc)
- In all cases, try to keep the AHU outside the acoustically isolated area of the studio. Even the very quiet AHU's are still too loud for most studios. We normally design home studios for NC-20 or so, and professional studios for NC-15 or less.

That's the basic procedure. In reality, it's more complicated....

That's about it!

Look around the forum at some of the larger studio build projects, and you'll find more detailed information on how to do this.
I'm building a soundproof home recording studio.
Where are you in that process? Have you started construction already, or are you still in the planning stages?
I have a rectangle area designated for this which is 2.7metres in height and 30cm wide.
That's all you have reserved for the HVAC system? Not enough. How big is the studio? We would need dimensioned diagrams and photos.

- Stuart -



- Stuart -

Re: Help required for a Simple Ventilation System

Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2019 3:59 pm
by tonym2410
IMG_0150 2.jpg
Ok, sorry I didnt read the forum rules properly.

I am in Adelaide, South Australia if thats not in my profile.

The room is 2.7m wide by 4.1m long with 2.7m height. A small room.
There is 1 door access only. No windows.
I have built all the soundproofing for the inside of the room.
The attached photo shows the back of the out side of the room. On the right is pink soundblock insulation batts sitting in front of Wavebar Mass Loaded Vinyl.
What the builder has left is about 55cm by 2.7 metre wide gap with 30cm gap on the right hand side to put some kind of ventilation system in.
You can see the back of the wavebar as I will fill with insulation after whatever ventilation goes in.

The room will be used by 1 or 2 people using a computer, monitor speakers, PA speakers and guitar amps.

Re: Help required for a Simple Ventilation System

Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2019 5:43 pm
by Gregwor
It appears you have designed a poorly "soundproof" room. Your design relies entirely upon the mass law equation. Having said that, your HVAC silencers do not need to be extreme in order to provide high levels of insertion loss.

You do however need fresh air in at one end of your room and stale air out at the other. That means you need to build silencer boxes (just use the search feature on the forum to find some examples/details about how to design and build them) that penetrate that wall in your picture. You can use whatever ducting you want to get one of those silencer box paths to the other end of the room.

Look into getting a properly sized ERV or HRV to move the air.

Greg