Looking for some insight regarding my garage build...

[The Dread]

I got lucky and was able to finagle some 5/8" sheets behind the breaker box. Man, what a pain in the ass.

So obviously, I'll need access to my electrical panel, but with it residing inside my MSM air cavity, that will obviously need some special attention. Any ideas here?...I recall Greg mentioning building a box around it, but I'm unable to paint that picture in my mind (and to still have access, that is).

Also, I'm trying to visualize a way to avoid having to seal off the area under the staircase (to the right of the electric panel, which you cannot see in this pic, see posts below) as I would love to use it for mic stand storage, cables, etc. (Edited Text & Photo): I have determined that I will build my LR closer to the original Sketchup design on page 3, with some minor changes, such as moving the under-staircase door to the outside of the LR (w/ access from the outside of the LR outer leaf.)

IMG_9698.JPG

[The Dread]

...different view, with the door in the location I'd choose if I went for a large, single room design.

[The Dread]

...another view. Sorry I didn't post them as one, J.Sayers always gives me guff when I upload large pics.

[The Dread]

Hello!

...so I'm thinking about putting up the two outer walls for my live room, and want to incorporate my garage's main support beam (LVL) as a top plate/nailer. Would you advise against this?

...also, if you look at the picture below, those same two walls I'm about to build will meet at the same place where my garage's 3.5" center post support is. I recall that the air cavity is a great place to hide things such as this... Do you think I should run my drywall to the outside of that beam (burying the beam in the air cavity, and inline with the outer leaf framing)? ...it is worth noting that my framing can't butt together at this location, but the drywall can go around it, if that makes any sense...maybe the pic will illustrate what I mean.

Many thanks!

-Chris

[Gregwor]

Would you advise against this?

That's fine, but you will have to make sure you have enough mass between the joists above that LVL and ensure that it's all sealed well.

...also, if you look at the picture below, those same two walls I'm about to build will meet at the same place where my garage's 3.5" center post support is. I recall that the air cavity is a great place to hide things such as this... Do you think I should run my drywall to the outside of that beam (burying the beam in the air cavity, and inline with the outer leaf framing)? ...it is worth noting that my framing can't butt together at this location, but the drywall can go around it, if that makes any sense...maybe the pic will illustrate what I mean.

You can determine this yourself in your 3D SketchUp. Basically, just make sure there is no void in your required mass and sealing!

Greg

[The Dread]

Thanks, Greg, that is small, but great news, I can't wait to get this going!

...also, I've got an IAC acoustic door, with an two piece adjustable frame (allows the frame to be set for different cavity depths), and I'm wondering about mounting these two metal frames to my two MSM wood frames; if a single nail can compromise a MSM system, how is it that installing a door won't?...

I searched around, but really can't find a reassuring answer.

Anyhow, thanks again, I really appreciate it!

-Chris

[Gregwor]

...also, I've got an IAC acoustic door, with an two piece adjustable frame (allows the frame to be set for different cavity depths), and I'm wondering about mounting these two metal frames to my two MSM wood frames; if a single nail can compromise a MSM system, how is it that installing a door won't?...

Personally, I'm not convinced that you can use an adjustable metal frame and achieve no voids and a perfect seal. I would never use one myself for that reason. My opinion aside, does the manufacturer not provide you with detailed instructions? If not, maybe it's because they know you'll see a flaw in their design..... ?

Greg

[The Dread]

...also, I've got an IAC acoustic door, with an two piece adjustable frame (allows the frame to be set for different cavity depths), and I'm wondering about mounting these two metal frames to my two MSM wood frames; if a single nail can compromise a MSM system, how is it that installing a door won't?...

Personally, I'm not convinced that you can use an adjustable metal frame and achieve no voids and a perfect seal. I would never use one myself for that reason. My opinion aside, does the manufacturer not provide you with detailed instructions? If not, maybe it's because they know you'll see a flaw in their design..... ?

Greg

I had the same feeling about this, thus why I figured it worth asking...looking at the door design, I feel that I don't really need to join the two frames, but I'll have to confirm that when I get going a bit...and no, I don't have any documentation for the door, as I scored it from a studio demo awhile back.

I can't help but wonder how to properly 'couple' leafs (this has to be the only way, right?) where doors exist; it seems obvious that this has to occur, as mass is needed in all voids, like you said, but if I mount the door on the outer leaf (swings out), how do I enclose the air cavity between leaves at this juncture?...any pics/threads/references available?

Thank again, Greg!

[Gregwor]

any pics/threads/references available?

Here are some threads with great pictures that should answer your question:

I went to the search feature and typed BRAUS and

here are the results

Greg

[The Dread]

Happy 2019 my friends!

any pics/threads/references available?

Here are some threads with great pictures that should answer your question:

I went to the search feature and typed BRAUS and

here are the results

Greg

I've looked into this and have gained some clarity, thanks for the direction!

I gather that BRAUS is actually somebody's name, and not an acronym for something that pertains to acoustics?...haha, just curious.

Below is a pic of my outer leaf frame, which shows how I plan to tuck the support beam in the air cavity of my MSM system.

So, I plan to utilize half of my steel door frame (the front side w/ hinges, bolt holes, etc.), but I'll still need to make a custom steel threshold, since the original didn't make it through the demo that I scored it from. Fortunately, I have access to a full blown metal fabrication shop, so it should be a breeze for me to make a super dense (voidless), custom stainless steel threshold for my self lowering (beveled hinge) acoustic door...but with that said...

...is there any reason for me to leave the 2x4 under the custom threshold, or is it safe for me to assume that I can remove that, as long as my threshold is tight?

I'm sure that I'm making a bigger deal about this than I should be.

Cheers!

[Soundman2020]

I gather that BRAUS is actually somebody's name, and not an acronym for something that pertains to acoustics?...haha, just curious.

One of my clients in Australia. He has given me permission to use photos from his studio, but not to identify who he is. The studio is working well, last time I checked with him: He teaches drums, so he often has not one but TWO large drum kits, going really hard! I designed it for maximum isolation, and he got the results he was looking for: his neighbors (a few meters away from the door) cannot hear a thing, and upstairs his wife and kids are not bothered at all: just a very vague, distant, muffled sound.

since the original didn't make it through the demo that I scored it from. Fortunately, I have access to a full blown metal fabrication shop, so it should be a breeze for me to make a super dense (voidless), custom stainless steel threshold for my self lowering (beveled hinge) acoustic door...but with that said...

Well you COULD do that, but it might be easier to just buy one, ready made, from some place like Zero International: they make acoustic door seals in several different flavors, including threshold plates and drop-down door seals.

...is there any reason for me to leave the 2x4 under the custom threshold, or is it safe for me to assume that I can remove that, as long as my threshold is tight?

That's fine, but first you need to complete the framing around your door. Studio doors are massive, and heavy. So when you swing it open, there's a huge amount of stress and tension placed on the framing. It needs to be beefy... if not, the framing can bend, sag, twist, or otherwise warp slightly over time, and your door will end up binding, and not sealing properly. Place noggins at 24" or even 16" intervals up the stud bays to each side in the first bay, then half that spacing, staggered, in the second bay. If your door is excessively heavy, then I have been known to put a 2x6 flat across the inner faces of the studs, facing the cavity, if there's enough gap to do that....

I'm sure that I'm making a bigger deal about this than I should be.

Nope! Not big enough, actually! Installing a studio door is a big deal. It pays to think it through carefully, and question everything!

EDITED TO ADD: A thought suddenly struck me: Why are you putting a door IN THE CORNER of your room???? Not a good place....


- Stuart -

[The Dread]

I gather that BRAUS is actually somebody's name, and not an acronym for something that pertains to acoustics?...haha, just curious.

One of my clients in Australia. He has given me permission to use photos from his studio, but not to identify who he is. The studio is working well, last time I checked with him: He teaches drums, so he often has not one but TWO large drum kits, going really hard! I designed it for maximum isolation, and he got the results he was looking for: his neighbors (a few meters away from the door) cannot hear a thing, and upstairs his wife and kids are not bothered at all: just a very vague, distant, muffled sound.

Ahhhhh, I seeeee, it all makes a little more sense now, as does the picture of the dual combative drum setup, which had my imagination stirring; maximum isolation was clearly a necessity in his situation. Nice work!

since the original didn't make it through the demo that I scored it from. Fortunately, I have access to a full blown metal fabrication shop, so it should be a breeze for me to make a super dense (voidless), custom stainless steel threshold for my self lowering (beveled hinge) acoustic door...but with that said...

Well you COULD do that, but it might be easier to just buy one, ready made, from some place like Zero International: they make acoustic door seals in several different flavors, including threshold plates and drop-down door seals.

Ok, great, thanks for the recommendation, I'll definitely look into that before I go custom, as that would obviously be much easier.

...is there any reason for me to leave the 2x4 under the custom threshold, or is it safe for me to assume that I can remove that, as long as my threshold is tight?

That's fine, but first you need to complete the framing around your door. Studio doors are massive, and heavy. So when you swing it open, there's a huge amount of stress and tension placed on the framing. It needs to be beefy... if not, the framing can bend, sag, twist, or otherwise warp slightly over time, and your door will end up binding, and not sealing properly. Place noggins at 24" or even 16" intervals up the stud bays to each side in the first bay, then half that spacing, staggered, in the second bay. If your door is excessively heavy, then I have been known to put a 2x6 flat across the inner faces of the studs, facing the cavity, if there's enough gap to do that...

Nice, that's good news, as I need an extra 1/4" to even get my door in-between the top/bottom plates...good bye bottom plate.
...and yes, I will do a triple stud door frame for my beast of a door (already did, but will redo because of your advice below), and will be sure to add noggins/blocks; Would you advise that I use the noggins over the 2x6" method, or vice versa (assuming that my cavity allows it, which it should)?

I'm sure that I'm making a bigger deal about this than I should be.

Nope! Not big enough, actually! Installing a studio door is a big deal. It pays to think it through carefully, and question everything!

EDITED TO ADD: A thought suddenly struck me: Why are you putting a door IN THE CORNER of your room???? Not a good place....

- Stuart -

Luckily, that's how I've been thinking about it, as I am not looking to compromise all of my hard work and study because I simply skimped out at such a critical juncture.
I've been dreading the door install, but at this point, I'm actually feeling pretty confident about it.

...as for the door in the corner, yea, that was a major oversight on my account, I probably don't even need to look up why that is a terrible idea, as I can think of a few reasons off my mind.
Thanks for pointing that out, Stuart...it's too bad that I couldn't think of that before I framed the walls, because I'd much rather prefer to have butt-nailed those studs, as compared to toe-nailing them.
Oh well.

Anyhow, I am now a little more curious about my LR door location; Acoustically speaking, would it be ideal for me to put the door in the middle(ish) area of the wall where it will be mounted in?

Many thanks!

-Chris

[The Dread]

In the picture below, I can see that the unbuilt window frame in the background (sill & head) have lap joints; is this recommended?

[Soundman2020]

I can see that the unbuilt window frame in the background (sill & head) have lap joints; is this recommended?

Sure, why not? It's thick wood; you screw and glue it, maybe dowel it too, then it is held in place by the rough framing anyway, with shims packed in to keep it all nice and square and plumb. The rough framing is VERY tough and rigid: it's not going anywhere.


- Stuart -

[The Dread]

I can see that the unbuilt window frame in the background (sill & head) have lap joints; is this recommended?

Sure, why not? It's thick wood; you screw and glue it, maybe dowel it too, then it is held in place by the rough framing anyway, with shims packed in to keep it all nice and square and plumb. The rough framing is VERY tough and rigid: it's not going anywhere.

- Stuart -

Ok, I'm picking up what you're putting down; over-build EVERYTHING!!! Hahaha...