Just saw the linked thread.
What a fantastic job!!!!!
I don't think i've ever seen a flatter low end response in a room!!!
Thanks! It wasn't easy to do, but it can be done, with careful design, careful testing, and careful tuning.
142 1/2 inches wide
145 " tall
164" is the long wall where
Well that explains the low end!

The modal issue at around 48 is actually two at once: 0.0.1 axial and 0.1.0 axial, at pretty much the same frequency (46.8 and 47.6), because the profile is square! The cloud will help a little with that, provided that it is huge, hard-backed, and angled.
The one "around 80" is your 2.0.0 axial at 82.7 Hz., and the one "around 120" is your 3.0.0 axial, at 124 Hz.
In other words, you don't have enough bass trapping in the length and height axes, and width is also deficient.
Its very hard to explain but basically part of the back wall is an irregular giant bass traps
That's fine, but there still isn't enough in the low end.
I also do think it could be sbir and need to play with placement ( speakers are ported in the back )
and right now i started with the speaker as close as possible to the back wall and eventually work my way back and re test.
There's no need to play: Just set the up correctly!
Also having width and height of the room very similar it might be more of a modal issue?
Yep!
although trapping 40hz.. unless i use pressure traps and get the q in the right spot...
You'd be surprised... the wavelength at 40 Hz is 28.25 feet, so theoretically it is feasible to get usable trapping from 23" of porous absorber for normal-incident sound, and as little as 12" for randomly incident sound. Most people don't realize that porous absorption is effective down to rather low frequencies.
I can't attach the MDAT it says: the extention MDAT is not allowed...
Upload it to a file sharing service, such as Dropbox, then post the link here.
As you can see i am a bit all over the place right now...
First things first: A lot of your issues arecoming from the incorrect speaker placement. the very first thing you need to do is fix that. Your speakers need to go right up tight against the front wall, except for a gap of 4" where you will insert a panel of 4" 703, directly in between the rear corner of the speaker and the front wall.
They also need to go on stands... Heavy! Massive! Lots of weight! Some people stack up concrete blocks or bricks, others make it from hollow steel profile and fill it with sand. But whatever you do, it has to be HEAVY.
It also has to be built to the correct heights, such that the acoustic axis of the speakers ends up at 1.2m above the floor, which is 47-1/4". Or maybe a bit higher. Perhaps as much as 49", but not higher.
You also need turn your speakers the right way up! You have them laying on their sides, which is terrible, and is probably part of the problem with the frequency response in the high end.
And you also need to get the in the correct location with respect to the side walls: each speaker must go 39" from the side wall, in your room. Which means that they will be 64.5" apart. Once again, I'm talking about the acoustic axis of the speakers, NOT the top, bottom, or sides of the cabinet. Check the manual to find out where the acoustic axis is on your speakers.
OK, once you have your speakers set up correctly, you'll need to set up your listening position. For that room, you need to set up your chair such that your ears will be 61" from the front wall when you are mixing normally. Then set up your desk comfortably in front of that.
Now set up a vertical pole of some type (eg, mic stand) about 16" behind your head (in other words, 76" from the front wall), and carefully aim each speaker such that it points directly at the pole. Here too, I'm talking about the acoustic axis: The acoustic axis must point at the pole.
Double check all those measurements.
That's the theoretical ideal geometry.
Now calibrate your gain structure, and REW, such that each speaker is producing exactly 80 dBC with REW putting out a -10dB signal, and everything in the signal chain pegged at either 0 dB (analog gear) or -20 dBFS (digital gear). You will need a hand-held sound level meter to do this. If you do that correctly, when each speaker produces 80 dBC by itself, both of them together will automatically produce 86 dBC. With that situation,m calibrate REW to tell it that the level is 86 dBC when the meter is showing 86 dBC. Use the full-spectrum test signal in REW, NOT the sub-woofer test signal!
With that setup, run three REW tests: one for the left speaker alone (right one turned off), one with just the right speaker (left one turned off), and one with both.
Post the MDAT file with those three tests, with the room set up optimally.
- Stuart -