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Mitsubishi Split air system installation.

Posted: Thu May 19, 2016 2:04 am
by MILESSOUND
:yahoo: Hello everyone,
I am looking to install a Mitzubushi dual zone split air system in my new construction 2 room studio.
To get one of the authorized installers that are recommended by Mitzubushi, they want a small fortune just to install it. Granted, you get a 12 year warranty by doing so, but they want way too much.
My question is is it that hard to install? has any of you done this yourself? Anyone recommend how to do this without paying for a really good used car? My last quote was $11,000! I know the units are expensive, but at the most $5000 retail!

Re: Mitsubishi Split air system installation.

Posted: Thu May 19, 2016 5:19 am
by Soundman2020
Hi there " MILESSOUND", and Welcome! :)
my last quote was $11,000!
Just to install a split system? That sounds a bit steep. But it would be good to know exactly what that includes: If it is just for mounting the indoor and outdoor units, running the pipe bundle between them, filling it with gas and testing it, then yes, that's expensive. On the other hand, if that also includes the installation of ducts, silencers, registers, dampers, system controller, load balancing, etc. then it isn't so bad. You did say that this is a zoned system, implying that one AHU services two rooms, which in turn implies all of the above...

If that's the case, then you can indeed do a lot of the work yourself, but not all of it. You can install the ducts, silencers, dampers, registers, etc., but you should still leave the installation of the AHU and compressor up to the pros, as well as the balancing and testing. That's not really a DIY job, and would probably void all warranties on the equipment if you did it yourself.

But there's an even bigger underlying question here: Was the system properly designed and spec'd for a recording studio? Who did the air flow calculations, heat calculations, humidity calculations, etc? Who designed the duct system and silences? If that was done by an average HVAC installer with little understanding of recording studios, then it is no use and will have to be re-done. If it was done by a studio designer, then you should be OK. There are major differences between installing HVAC for a house, office, school or shop, as compared to recording studio....


- Stuart -

Re: Mitsubishi Split air system installation.

Posted: Thu May 19, 2016 7:43 am
by MILESSOUND
Thank you for the reply, I really appreciate it! My studio is 2 rooms. The live room is double walled with a 4" gap with roxul in both bays. It will have a layer of 5/8" drywall with a 1/2" layer over that. The dimensions are 13' x 18' with a 11' ceiling. Both rooms have 2 layers of 5/8" drywall on the ceilings. The control room cannot be double walled due to codes but will be 1/2" resilient channel with 2 layers of 5/8 " drywall. The dimensions are 20' x 14' with a 11' ceiling. There will be no duct work per se, just the 2 heads being fed by a 36,000 btu compressor. The a little over $11,000 price includes a Mitsubishi MZX-4B36NA Condenser, a MSZ-GE24NA AND A MSZ-GEI5NA Air handlers mounted to walls. All related piping and wire run to electrical circuit. A condenser pad and strapping to it as well.
Part of the problem as you stated is that if you buy the units and necessary lines etc. and install yourself, it voids the warranty. Which is 12 years on all parts, which is pretty great. From what I've heard, these units are the best that are made and make very little if any noise. I would really like to use these units if possible, but the price is restrictive. I'm also almost ready for drywall and have been getting bids ranging from $8,000 to a wapping $13,000! I've already spent over $25,000 just in framing,insulation,wiring etc. This is my second personal studio I've built and have worked and helped build many others, but its been awhile. This is getting really expensive as you well know.

Re: Mitsubishi Split air system installation.

Posted: Thu May 19, 2016 8:01 am
by MILESSOUND
Also to answer your question about doing calculations, the install company has done studios before and has supposedly done the calcs. I do not have a provision for adding fresh air though. As of now, I'm planning on just opening the outside door periodically inbetween sessions. I know this isn't ideal, but in my case, it is probably better than making more holes to the outside and having to run ducts, make boxes, purchase fans etc. I really don't have much more room between the live room walls to make the necessary bends in anything other than maybe a 2" pipe at most in the 4" between the walls. Any ideas?

Re: Mitsubishi Split air system installation.

Posted: Thu May 19, 2016 11:17 am
by Soundman2020
The a little over $11,000 price includes a Mitsubishi MZX-4B36NA Condenser, a MSZ-GE24NA AND A MSZ-GEI5NA Air handlers mounted to walls. All related piping and wire run to electrical circuit. A condenser pad and strapping to it as well.
That's a still a little on the high side, but if it comes with a 12 year warranty, that's pretty darn good.

Have you looked at other options, such as using two independent mini-split systems, instead of one combined unit? For example, one 18,000 BTU unit in each room if they are the same size and have the same occupancy, or maybe one 24,000 BTU system for the larger room/highest occupancy and a 12,000 BTU system for the smaller room/lowest occupancy, or some such combination? It might work out cheaper overall.
I do not have a provision for adding fresh air though.
:ahh: :shock: :cop:

Ummm.... you need it. It's not "something that is nice to have": rather it is "somthing that you absolutely must have". You see, people have this terrible habit: they like to breathe. They really very much want to inhale lots of Oxygen, and then they really like to exhale lots of carbon dioxide (and other nasty stuff). With no ventilation, the people in your room will use up all the O2, and replace it with CO2. It can get unpleasant in there quite fast, if you have a few people jamming hard...

Studios are not like normal rooms in a normal house, where there are numerous leaky paths for air to enter, and the doors are usually open most of the time. Studios have no leaky paths: they are sealed absolutely air-tight, twice over, with high precision, and the doors are always closed. That's the way it HAS to be to get good isolation and proper acoustics. There is no path at all for air to get in or out.

So here's the thing: If you like breathing and staying conscious, you absolutely unequivocally do need ventilation.

Your room probably won't even pass inspection if you don't have it. There are legal code requirements about this. ASHRAE and code specify at least 6 room changes per hour for most rooms, and 8 is better. Some rooms require as much as 12 or even more. So calculate the volume of your room, multiply by 6, and that's how much air you need to move through the room, every hour.
The dimensions are 13' x 18' with a 11' ceiling.
2,574 cubic feet x 6 = 15,444 cubic feet per hour. Most fans are rated in cubic feet er minute, not per hour, so divide by 60: 257 CFM. You need a duct and fan system that can move about 250 cubic feet per minute of air through your room.

This is not an option.
As of now, I'm planning on just opening the outside door periodically inbetween sessions.
That wont work. As I mentioned above, there are no leaky paths into your room, so opening the door does nothing. In order for the air to move, you need to give it a reason to move! You need to have a pressure differential between two points. Opening the door only provides one point, and no difference in pressure. You need to create that pressure differential with two HVAC ducts: one of them brings fresh air into the room, the other takes tale air out of the room.
I know this isn't ideal,
Not only is not not ideal, it just plain won't work. Look around the forum, and you'll find a few threads where people thought the same way you are thinking, and built their rooms like that. Then realized what a huge mistake they made afterwards, and had to go back and install proper HVAC.
but in my case, it is probably better
Nope. Sorry. It just isn't. In fact, it's not that it "isn't better", but rather that it just isn't an option.
I really don't have much more room between the live room walls to make the necessary bends in anything other than maybe a 2" pipe at most in the 4" between the walls.
Then you'll need to change that! fortunately, you are still at a point where you can do that, with relatively little pain. There is no drywall yet, only framing, so you can easily modify the framing as necessary to get your ducts and silencers in.
Any ideas?
Yep! See above... :)

In other words, stop building now, figure out how to get ducts and silencers boxes in there to supply each room with 250 CFM at less than 300 FPM, modify the framing as needed for that, then after that is done, carry on building.


- Stuart -

Re: Mitsubishi Split air system installation.

Posted: Fri May 20, 2016 1:34 pm
by MILESSOUND
Thank you again for your input, very appreciated once again. Is there a link here showing this intake and outtake in pics/plans? You think a 2" duct would sufficient for this? What type of fans are generally used in a do it yourself situation? Box fans as used in racks maybe?

Re: Mitsubishi Split air system installation.

Posted: Fri May 20, 2016 3:38 pm
by Soundman2020
There's quite a bit of math that you need to do here to figure it all out.

First, figure out the total volume of your room, in cubic feet. Multiply Length x Width x Height.

Now, multiply that number by 6 (because you need at least 6 room changes per hour), to give you the air flow rate (cubic feet per hour).

Divide that by 60, to give you the air flow rate in cubic feet per minute (CFM). Mos HVAC fans are rated in CFM, so that's how you come up with that number, and that's why you need it.

Now use that to figure out the size of duct you need. The air flow velocity must be less than 300 feet per second (fps), so you need to choose a duct size that will allow the air flow volume that you calculated to flow at a speed of less than 300 fps. So divide the flow rate that you first figured out by 300: that gives the cross sectional area of the duct that you will need, in square feet. Multiply that by 144 to get square inches, then multiply that by PI, take the square root, and multiply by 2 to get the duct diameter.

You will also need silencer boxes on each point where a duct goes through a wall leaf. Here are some examples of silencer boxes built by forum members:

http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 0&start=45
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 9&start=74
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 25&start=2
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 42&start=5
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 61&start=0
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 5&start=98
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... &start=157
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... =2&t=13821
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 8&start=44
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 2&start=16

There are other equations for calculating the size of those.
What type of fans are generally used in a do it yourself situation? Box fans as used in racks maybe?
They need to be rather bigger than that. You need to move a lot of air, slowly, to prevent it from making any noise. If you move a small amount of air fast, it is turbulent, and noisy, and annoying, not efficient. You need a proper HVAC fan, such as those made by Fantech, or any other reputable company.


- Stuart -

Re: Mitsubishi Split air system installation.

Posted: Sat May 21, 2016 6:46 am
by MILESSOUND
Thanks again. I really appreciate your input. I've been following this forum for years and it has been a wealth of information to me and I'm sure many others.

Re: Mitsubishi Split air system installation.

Posted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 6:10 am
by MILESSOUND
Well, due to the codes here, they won't let me install air-conditioning. To get the plans approved, it's supposed to be a storage/non-conditioned/ uninhabited space. For storage I would have just insulated and drywalled, easy! The plan checker knew what the purpose was, but couldn't get it passed otherwise. The inspector said I could do it after he signs off "wink" because he won't be back.
So I'm left with having to figure out how to penetrate the double wall construction after drywall etc. without completely messing up my perfectly air tight walls. So frustrating !

Re: Mitsubishi Split air system installation.

Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2016 3:02 pm
by Soundman2020
So I'm left with having to figure out how to penetrate the double wall construction after drywall etc. without completely messing up my perfectly air tight walls. So frustrating !
It's not so hard to do: where the silencer box sleeve goes through the wall, cut it in the middle and use a canvas or rubber sleeve to decouple it.


- Stuart -