Help with Planning & Building of my Recording Studio

[Studio45]

Ooops! Room mode calculators are not applicable here, except for the length axial mode, and perhaps slightly for the width.

Ok! Understood!

Length yes, width... not so much. Only to a limited extent, since most of the side "walls" is steeply angled. There's only a small part that is vertical.

Ok!

Yep!

Ok that's too bad but I guess I expected that. lol

I think we are talking about "front / back" and "sides" in different senses here! For me, the best way to lay out a control room in that space, would be to face the window. So the "front" would be the window, the "back" would be the door, and the "sides" would be the deeply sloped ceiling.

Oh! Ok..this changes things a bit haha. This is great feedback! Curious to know based on your answer, if it's better to have more width then length for listening position? I was hoping to be able to look in the Live Room while working in Control Room but if you're saying it would best to face the window for the mixing/listening position I won't question it and I will switch it up. If that's the case I think I will swap the door and window within the wall facing the live room so that the window would be more in the center of the room and have the door at one of the ends.

I would like to add some more details to the HVAC design and wanted to confirm if I can possibly put the silencer boxes in between walls. Looking at the last CR picture I posted, you can see (left) there's some space in between in the inner and outer leaf walls. I would like to put the supply boxes there and have the return boxes in between the CR and the LR. I don't see why not as long as the boxes don't interconnect the two walls in any way correct?

I'm also wondering since I have approx 12-16" of space between the outer and inner wall, if I could/should soffit mount my monitors in there(TBD). There's alot of room in there can would be wasted otherwise so anything I can do to use up that space would be nice. I was originally thinking of building a recessed space for an effect rack in the wall.

I can't say enough how much I appreciate your help. Stuart! Thanks again for dealing with all our questions!

[Soundman2020]

Curious to know based on your answer, if it's better to have more width then length for listening position?

Usually it is, indeed, better to have the speakers facing the long way down the room, to have as much distance as possible between the front and back walls. But in your case, it's a very different situation. It makes more sense to have flat walls at the front and rear, with the angles on the sides.

This means that you'll need a ton of treatment on the rear wall, but that's a given anyway: you'll need some extra, and it will be more complex to do it, due to the ceiling angles, but it's the best compromise. acoustically.

I was hoping to be able to look in the Live Room while working in Control Room

You could do that too: flip it 180°, put the doors in the center of that wall, and make them sliding glass doors, or swing doors with lots of glass, so you can see into the other room. That would be fine.

If that's the case I think I will swap the door and window within the wall facing the live room so that the window would be more in the center of the room and have the door at one of the ends.

As I mentioned in the paragraph above, I would do that as a single combined "door-window" Either a large hinged door with plenty of glass in it, or a sliding glass door.

I would like to add some more details to the HVAC design and wanted to confirm if I can possibly put the silencer boxes in between walls.

You can, provided that you have enough space there! Silencer boxes are large: The "thinnest" one I've ever designed was still 11 inches thick, so you'd need a wall caity at least that big, plus some extra space on each side...

since I have approx 12-16" of space between the outer and inner wall, if I could/should soffit mount my monitors in there(TBD).

Not really. Your speakers are still located within the inner-leaf of the room, even though you then add the baffle in front. You cannot have the rear end of the speaker inside the wall cavity, as it would not be isolated at all.

I was originally thinking of building a recessed space for an effect rack in the wall.

If you do flip the room so that you are facing the CR directly, then that would be your rear wall, so you could use that extra space for bass trapping. You'd need to do some fancy framing for that, for your inner-leaf, with a "kink" near the floor, but 16" is too good to waste! That would be excellent for bass trapping.

- Stuart -

[Studio45]

Usually it is, indeed, better to have the speakers facing the long way down the room, to have as much distance as possible between the front and back walls. But in your case, it's a very different situation. It makes more sense to have flat walls at the front and rear, with the angles on the sides.

This means that you'll need a ton of treatment on the rear wall, but that's a given anyway: you'll need some extra, and it will be more complex to do it, due to the ceiling angles, but it's the best compromise. acoustically.

Right, of course, I had forgotten about the fact that the speakers need to be angled towards to the listening position and in my case flipping the layout as you mentioned makes much more sense.

As for the "tons of treatment" required on the back wall, if I do rotate 180 degrees, I'll make sure to use the 12-14" worth of space in between the outer and inner wall for that.
I'm just curious now, what if I don't flip and just go with your original proposal, I would probably need to build another frame in front of my back wall for all that extra treatment and absorption correct? And the thicker the better? I'm just thinking I might be best to flip and make use of that space. I'm running the main supply trunc of my air handler in that space. You can see it in my previous picture. It's wrapped in 4" of green mineral insulation.

You could do that too: flip it 180°, put the doors in the center of that wall, and make them sliding glass doors, or swing doors with lots of glass, so you can see into the other room. That would be fine.

This would be great for sure! Question thought, I'm just wondering doesn't my listening position need to be in the middle of the room? I suppose having my desk a little offset from the middle is not a big deal?

I would do that as a single combined "door-window" Either a large hinged door with plenty of glass in it, or a sliding glass door.

As for the doors, I was going to go for two separate solid core doors instead of just one massive one. I guess based on what you're saying I'd get better isolation by not having two separate openings and combining the two together correct? I was hoping to have the window in front and above my mixing position but if it's best to just combine the door and window I'll just accept and live with it.

You can, provided that you have enough space there! Silencer boxes are large: The "thinnest" one I've ever designed was still 11 inches thick, so you'd need a wall cavity at least that big, plus some extra space on each side...

11" inches is doable. I have 12" on the plan right now but can space it a little more to accommodate. I was planning on having approx 16" in between the CR and LR walls so there would be plenty of space there I think. Could I not just fasten the boxes on my outer or inner leaf wall?

Another quick question about Supply and Return vents. I've read that it's best to have the supply at the top of the walls or in the ceilings, what about the returns? Would the same apply there? Trying to figure it all out. I'll run mostly flex insulated 6" duct from the main truncs in between the walls.Worst case I might even be able to run the flex above the ceilings hanging from the outer leaf.

Not really. Your speakers are still located within the inner-leaf of the room, even though you then add the baffle in front. You cannot have the rear end of the speaker inside the wall cavity, as it would not be isolated at all.

Alright so I guess that means I'm stuck with having my monitors on stands correct?

If you do flip the room so that you are facing the CR directly, then that would be your rear wall, so you could use that extra space for bass trapping. You'd need to do some fancy framing for that, for your inner-leaf, with a "kink" near the floor, but 16" is too good to waste! That would be excellent for bass trapping.

I'm pretty sure this is what I will be doing. I get what you're saying with the kink near the floor for bass trapping. I'm just wondering if having my HVAC supply trunc running on the floor is an issue. The trunc is approx 10" high and sitting on 4" of insulation so it's approx. 14" off the floor. Can I still do bass trapping at that height with some fancy framing or doe the bass trapping need to be done right off the floor?

Cheers!!

[Stadank0]

When do you think you'll start construction?

[Studio45]

Long story short, I had previously started framing walls but after having a few replies from Stuart, I realized I really wasn't doing things right so I took a big step back and started doing more and more research and decided I was going to hold off on the build until I was 100% sure of the design.

I'm really hoping to to start construction within the next couple of months but before that happens I'm going to make sure I get the thumbs up from Stuart. I'm still trying to finalize my Sketchup plan and I think I'm getting there but there are still some details I need to address. Honestly, Stuart has been the key contributor for my design. I cannot say enough about much I appreciate his help and most of all his patience dealing with all my questions.

Baby steps I'll make sure to post all progress pictures once I get started

[Soundman2020]

I realized I really wasn't doing things right so I took a big step back and started doing more and more research and decided I was going to hold off on the build until I was 100% sure of the design.

Very smart move! VERY! In truth, studio construction is 90% design and 10% actual building. If the design is well thought out, in complete detail, then construction goes fast and smooth... and the studio WORKS!

Stuart has been the key contributor for my design. I cannot say enough about much I appreciate his help and most of all his patience dealing with all my questions.

Thanks for the kind words!

- Stuart -

[Stadank0]

Very smart move! VERY! In truth, studio construction is 90% design and 10% actual building. If the design is well thought out, in complete detail, then construction goes fast and smooth... and the studio WORKS!

Spoken like a true engineeer!!!LOL I hope you can see humor in that....

[Studio45]

Spoken like a true engineeer!!!LOL I hope you can see humor in that....

Man I sure hope he finds that funny....because I want him to come back and answer my all questions!! hahaha

[Stadank0]

Sorry,

I couldn't resist....I'll behave from now on. I promise!


In my defense...Some light hearted banter can be a healthy thing...

[Soundman2020]

On other hand....

what-the-customer-wanted-1b.jpg

- Stuart -

[Stadank0]

[Studio45]

LOL that is amazing!! I'm a programmer/analyst and this pretty much sums up every project we do.

Thanks for sharing!

[Studio45]

Alright alright back to the fun stuff haha

Ok so I've studied Stuarts answers a little more and made a few decisions on the design and well I have more questions of course

I've decided that I will be flipping the CR around 180 so that the back wall will be the one with the outer window in it. I think this would really make use of that 12-14"
behind the inner wall. A few questions though regarding this:

1) Does my listening position need to be in the middle of the room or can it be put offset and more towards one of the corners?

2) For the doors, I was going to go for two separate solid core doors instead of just one massive one. Does that work?

3) I guess based on what you've mentioned in your last post, I would get better isolation by not having two separate openings and combining the two (window and door) together correct? I was hoping to have the window in front and above my mixing position but if it's best to just combine the door and window I'll just accept and live with it. I might even skip out on the window because the main idea is to be able to interact with the people on the other side. Not a must so if it takes away too much isolation I'll just forget it and use intercoms haha

Quick question about the live room. Should I bother with putting one of the LR walls on an angle? I've done it on my plan currently but it does take away a bit of space if only by 5-6 degrees. Should I keep it that way or should I just put it at a 90 degree and just treat the room afterwards?

I have a few additional questions about the HVAC:

1) About the silencer boxes, 11 inches thick is doable. I have 12" on the plan right now but can space it a little more to accommodate. I was planning on having approx 16" in between the CR and LR walls so there would be plenty of space there I think. Could I not just fasten the boxes on my outer or inner leaf wall without them touching anything else?

2) About Supply and Return vents. I've read that it's best to have the supply at the top of the walls or in the ceilings, what about the returns? Would the same apply there? I'm trying to figure it all out and I'm thinking of running mostly 6" insulated flex duct from the main supply and return trunc in between the walls in to silencer boxes and then out back to flex duct to the vent opening.

If you do flip the room so that you are facing the CR directly, then that would be your rear wall, so you could use that extra space for bass trapping. You'd need to do some fancy framing for that, for your inner-leaf, with a "kink" near the floor, but 16" is too good to waste! That would be excellent for bass trapping.

Since I will flip the room around, I get what you're saying with the kink near the floor for bass trapping. I'm just wondering:

1) Does having my HVAC supply trunc running on the floor an issue. (You can see what I mean by last two pics I posted as well as the pictures I posted on the first or second page) The trunc is approx 10" high x 12" wide and currently sitting on 4" of insulation so it's approx. 14" off the floor. I plan to run the return trunc in between the CR and LR wall.

2) Can I still do bass trapping at that height with some fancy framing or does the bass trapping need to be done right off the floor?

3) I've mentioned that I was thinking/planning on wrapping the main supply and return truncs all around in 4" mineral insulation, Would you say that's a good idea?

Things are really starting to come together on this plan! I'll update with more details and share once I've got some confirmations.

Again thanks for your help Stuart...you're a lifesaver!!

Cheers from freezing Canada!! lol

Francis,

[Soundman2020]

Getting back to your room design... The engineer in me says that your framing on that rear wall is going to be complicated, and is going to take some careful design... but that extra 16" of space is just too good to waste. It is worthwhile. I would suggest that you frame a sort of structural "box" over your ducts, able to support everything above, then build the wall framing above that, with just the right amount of separation from the existing outer-leaf wall to get your isolation.

That wall also has to support your inner-leaf ceiling, so it has to be structurally sound and able to do that.

And yes, you CAN soffit-mount your speakers if you want to... regardless of which way around you orient the room..

- Stuart -

[Studio45]

I would suggest that you frame a sort of structural "box" over your ducts, able to support everything above, then build the wall framing above that, with just the right amount of separation from the existing outer-leaf wall to get your isolation.

Right!!! I think I see where you're going with this. I currently just have the wall in front of the duct but doing it the way you explain it I would be able to put the wall closer to the outer wall. As well this would allow me to put treatment in front of the inner wall and not behind correct? Wow this is a great idea...why didn't I think of that...maybe it's because I'm just a code monkey and not an engineer nor a studio design expert lol

And yes, you CAN soffit-mount your speakers if you want to... regardless of which way around you orient the room..

I guess what you're saying is that it's possible as long as thespeakers are not going behind the inner wall and say in front of it.

Thanks Stuart this is great! I will adjust the plan tonight!