John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum Archive

Garage Studio Build- Camden, Sydney, Australia.

Hey guys! Huge fan of the forum. I have learnt so much by scrolling through the various posts over the last few months, now it’s time I undertake my own project.
We’ve recently purchased a house on an acre in Camden, NSW Australia. Settlement is complete and we now have access to the house. I am going to be converting the rear half of a 4 car garage into a studio space.

I don’t plan on recording drums in the early hours of the morning and external noise isn’t real concern, I would however, like to be able to mix without having to think about whether I’m too loud.

Existing structure:
- Currently a steel frame 4 car garage
- Floor is solid concrete slab
- As seen in the pictures, the walls are made up of brickwork, two garage doors and an opening in the wall where there is currently a pull down shutter.
- The roof is made from tin
- Dimensions: Length= 6.85M | Width= 4.55M | Height= 3.6M (Highest point) 2.68M (Lowest Point)

Planning on constructing one room as a control room/live room. My music is predominately electronic, I do record guitar amps and percussion but a separate live room isn’t a necessity.

Budget: $ 8,000 AUD

Questions:
- I need to partition the garage, I was thinking of constructing this partition using Blueboard, thoughts?
- I am planning to construct a window in front of my desk to let natural light through, I have checked over some of the other builds to see how this is done. From what I gather it will involve 2 windows, one on the outer leaf and one on the inner leaf. What are my options in terms of filling the air gap between the two windows? Can I use timber to fill the gap? But if the timber is touching both leaves will this cause a problem?
- How do I construct the door(s)? Should I have two doors? One for each leaf? I will get down to the technical construction elements down the track.
- What is the ideal ceiling height for the internal leaf? Is it fine for the outer leaf ceiling to be angled?
- I am considering using the existing concrete floors as my internal floor and polishing them. Are there any acoustic concerns with this?

I hope I’ve provided enough info to get some feedback!

Thanks in advance, Beau.

I'll take a shot at answering a few of these questions, though I am by no means one of the experts here. I haven't actually built much, I've just been reading and studying this forum off and on for years.

ahhbeau wrote: - I need to partition the garage, I was thinking of constructing this partition using Blueboard, thoughts?

I'm not familiar with Blueboard but if it is the same thing as drywall/gyprock/gypsum board then yes. If it is something different then I don't know. The most commonly used wall panel material by people on this site is what we call drywall, in the US. Because it is normally the most cost effective way to add mass to your walls. Timber framing and drywall panels is what I see most commonly used here, for internal walls.

ahhbeau wrote: - I am planning to construct a window in front of my desk to let natural light through, I have checked over some of the other builds to see how this is done. From what I gather it will involve 2 windows, one on the outer leaf and one on the inner leaf. What are my options in terms of filling the air gap between the two windows? Can I use timber to fill the gap? But if the timber is touching both leaves will this cause a problem?

I assume you mean around the perimeter of the window and in that case, yes, using timber would cause a problem. It would create a flanking path and reduce the isolation capabilities of the wall assembly. The recommended method is to use rigid fiberglass such as OC 703 covered with fabric for this. Personally, I would suggest not having windows if the reason is just for natural light. It will add significantly to the cost and difficulty of the build. That's just me though. It can certainly be done.

This thread might be helpful:
http://johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic ... lit=window
Make sure you read Stuart's responses. I would also add that having the glass angled the way that diagram shows is not necessary and reduces your isolation.

ahhbeau wrote: - How do I construct the door(s)? Should I have two doors? One for each leaf? I will get down to the technical construction elements down the track.

2 doors, one for each leaf is the best option. Construction details for this are extremely important and great care must be taken as this is one area that can really make or break the whole project. Well, I guess that's true of pretty much every aspect

ahhbeau wrote: - What is the ideal ceiling height for the internal leaf? Is it fine for the outer leaf ceiling to be angled?

As high as your space will allow. Outer leaf ceiling can be angled but preferably not the inner leaf ceiling.

ahhbeau wrote: - I am considering using the existing concrete floors as my internal floor and polishing them. Are there any acoustic concerns with this?

This is a good way to do it.

ahhbeau wrote: I hope I’ve provided enough info to get some feedback!

I believe you have and hopefully some of the more knowledgeable members will chime in to offer more help.

One major concern in that space is sealing and beefing up the existing structure which will be your outer leaf. In my not-so-experienced opinion, what Rod Gervais wrote in this post might be the best approach to dealing with the garage doors:

http://johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic ... ive#p61814

Hopefully the other guys can make some suggestions for that open wall and the roof. Those are big issues.

Hey Sam! Thanks for the swift reply mate, really appreciate you taking the time to help out

Blueboard is cement/concrete sheeting which is designed to be used as an external cladding material. I'm planning on using this as the external wall for the garage partition, to close up the open wall and to fill in the space where the 2 garage doors are currently. Here is a link that gives a quick description of 'Blueboard': http://www.build.com.au/can-blueboard-b ... material-0

In regards to the window for natural light, I think you've persuaded me to give it a miss. I think you're right in that the added cost and difficulty may not be worth the hassle!

With the garage doors, I think I am going to be pulling them down completely and building the space in. I believe this will make the job of isolating the outer leaf significantly easier.

I'll be organising to get a carpenter out to have a look at project and hope to get started after Christmas. Hopefully some of the other members will join the discussion too.

Thanks again for the response!

Beau.

Sorry you haven't gotten more help. I would've expected more responses from other members. I'm afraid I may have jinxed your thread. I seem to be a bit of a thread killer, ever since I apparently and unintentionally offended the most prolific poster on this site.

Also, I'm not so sure about what I said before in reference to the inner ceiling being angled. I said preferably not but I know there are times this is ok, depending on what type of angle. Plus, if it means getting more ceiling height I think it may very well be worth it. This is an area in which I have much more to learn.

Good idea to remove and build in the garage door areas.

ahhbeau wrote:Hey Sam! Thanks for the swift reply mate, really appreciate you taking the time to help out

Blueboard is cement/concrete sheeting which is designed to be used as an external cladding material. I'm planning on using this as the external wall for the garage partition, to close up the open wall and to fill in the space where the 2 garage doors are currently. Here is a link that gives a quick description of 'Blueboard': http://www.build.com.au/can-blueboard-b ... material-0

Here in the U.S. we sometimes call Blueboard "Hardie Board". I have it as the exterior siding on my house.

If I understand what you want to do correctly, you want to face the outerleaf of the garage partition with Blueboard, which would be the side facing the screen windows?

I don't think that would be an issue. You might consider putting a layer of plywood between the frame and the Blueboard, and then making sure to properly seal the plywood layer. Not sure if the blueboard can be acoustically sealed or not.

The inner leaf of the garage partition should just use drywall and/or plywood or OSB depending on your design and budget.

I think you will not like that tin roof. If it rains, it would likely be too loud, even with an inner ceiling leaf underneath it. Do you have the budget to replace the roof with plywood and shingles?

Hi there Beau, and welcome to the forum!

- I need to partition the garage, I was thinking of constructing this partition using Blueboard, thoughts?

I understand that "Blueboard" is a type of fiber-cement board? If so, then yes, that's a good material to use for sheathing your isolation walls.

- I am planning to construct a window in front of my desk to let natural light through, I have checked over some of the other builds to see how this is done. From what I gather it will involve 2 windows, one on the outer leaf and one on the inner leaf.

Correct.

What are my options in terms of filling the air gap between the two windows? Can I use timber to fill the gap? But if the timber is touching both leaves will this cause a problem?

Yes, that would create a direct flanking path. It would, in fact, "short circuit" all the careful work that you will do in building your leaves separately.

The normal way of closing the gap visually is to wrap a piece of OC-703 (or other similar semi-rigid insulation) in black fabric, and place that in the gap. If you build your window frames correctly, that can sit in a sort of "recess", down below the level of the wood trim, so that it looks very neat and professional.

- How do I construct the door(s)? Should I have two doors? One for each leaf?

Correct. The best way is to start with a standard solid-core door (never use hollow core or foam core!), add some more mass to it with layers of something like drywall, MDF, plwood, MLV, lead sheeting, etc., beef up the hinges to handle the huge extra mass, and install at least two independent full-perimeter seals.

- What is the ideal ceiling height for the internal leaf?

As high as possible, but also check that your room ratio is a good one, or at least is not a bad one. Use one of the room ratio calculators for that,

Is it fine for the outer leaf ceiling to be angled?

Not sure what you mean: your outer-leaf is already in place and it is a roof, not a ceiling...

- I am considering using the existing concrete floors as my internal floor and polishing them. Are there any acoustic concerns with this?

The only concern with that plan is to make them look as good as they sound! A concrete floor is about the best possible acoustic floor you can hope for.

Blueboard is cement/concrete sheeting which is designed to be used as an external cladding material. I'm planning on using this as the external wall for the garage partition, to close up the open wall and to fill in the space where the 2 garage doors are currently.

That's fine, and will work well. Your biggest concern is with how to make sure that the surface density is reasonably constant on your entire outer-leaf, and that it is sealed absolutely air-tight. Not a single gap, crack or hole is permitted.

In regards to the window for natural light, I think you've persuaded me to give it a miss. I think you're right in that the added cost and difficulty may not be worth the hassle!

It is no harder than doing a door! In fact, it is easier, since the window does not open: it's just a pair of fixed glass panes, permanently mounted in their respective frames. It's not big deal to do that.

With the garage doors, I think I am going to be pulling them down completely and building the space in. I believe this will make the job of isolating the outer leaf significantly easier.

Excellent! Yes, that is indeed the best plan.

I'll be organising to get a carpenter out to have a look at project and hope to get started after Christmas.

Whoooaaa!!! You can't get started until you have a plan!!!! You first need to spend the time creating a complete, detailed, accurate plan, showing exactly where everything goes, all the dimensions, materials, etc. There are major parts that you have not taken into account at all, such as HVAC and electrical, for example. Those are both critical for a studio. HVAC even more so, since it keeps you alive inside your sealed air-tight studio... You cannot start building until the design is complete and checked in every detail...


- Stuart -