2 Questions for a room rebuild
Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 3:20 pm
There are two issues I would like mention in this post, but first I want to make clear that these considerations are being made outside of a properly designed fully insulated, room-within-a-room studio environement. My workspace is in a private home and I'm more concerned with controlling its acoustic properties than sound isolation. That said, to the meat:
1. Controlling floor resonances.
I had to have the ceiling in my workspace redone because of water damage from the roof. The old flooring in this room isn't even worth mentioning. I decided to put in a hardwood floor. I always noticed that the floor was somewhat "boomy" sounding if you put your foot down hard, so I decided to open it up and see exactly what's there. The room is 18' 4" long, 12' 5" wide and about 8' high from floor joist top to ceiling.
We started ripping out the floor and discovered the following:
The joists are 3"x 11" (actual size) placed 19" apart (centers) spanning the narrow side of the room. They're "hung" on the edges of the outer joists and are very good shape, though they appear to have been re-cyled from another location. There's about 4" clearance below the joists till you hit the gyprock that is the ceiling of the floor below; there's a few inches of fiberglass pink insulation between the gyprock and the joists. The plywood above the joists is only 5/8" and is being removed; for some reason they used floating wood strips between the joists to screw the plywood sheets to each other and straight nails into the floor joists that became loose and noisy over the years... a real shoddy job... nuff said!
I need to know if the following makes any sense:
Considering that:
- there are 11x 3"x11" studs under the floor
- a new 3/4 to 1" plywood subfloor layer will be used to structurally reinforce it
- a standard thickness full hardwood floor will be installed on top of that
- and that there's no acoustic absorption at all in that floor currently
Does it make sense to go through some effort to dampen floor resonances further?
Options (I can think of):
- install 6" to 10" thick rock wool between the floor joists to improve the absorption.
- add additional joists between existing floor joists to even out the support, or add perpendicular pieces to offer support in the other direction (between the floor joists). How many?
- use some kind of math formula to make the placement of cross-pieces acoustically significant.
- stagger the vertical depth of the rock wool with some acoustic plan to even out absorption at various frequencies
2. Use large wide broadband absorbers to alter the reflection angles of the room from front to back.
We all know the pitfalls of parallel walls in a room, but what if we built wall-length sound absorbers to try to control those reflections. Does making and installing something like this make sense? (dimensions/thickness are arbitrary; just for the inquiry) :
Thanks for any feedback!
1. Controlling floor resonances.
I had to have the ceiling in my workspace redone because of water damage from the roof. The old flooring in this room isn't even worth mentioning. I decided to put in a hardwood floor. I always noticed that the floor was somewhat "boomy" sounding if you put your foot down hard, so I decided to open it up and see exactly what's there. The room is 18' 4" long, 12' 5" wide and about 8' high from floor joist top to ceiling.
We started ripping out the floor and discovered the following:
The joists are 3"x 11" (actual size) placed 19" apart (centers) spanning the narrow side of the room. They're "hung" on the edges of the outer joists and are very good shape, though they appear to have been re-cyled from another location. There's about 4" clearance below the joists till you hit the gyprock that is the ceiling of the floor below; there's a few inches of fiberglass pink insulation between the gyprock and the joists. The plywood above the joists is only 5/8" and is being removed; for some reason they used floating wood strips between the joists to screw the plywood sheets to each other and straight nails into the floor joists that became loose and noisy over the years... a real shoddy job... nuff said!
I need to know if the following makes any sense:
Considering that:
- there are 11x 3"x11" studs under the floor
- a new 3/4 to 1" plywood subfloor layer will be used to structurally reinforce it
- a standard thickness full hardwood floor will be installed on top of that
- and that there's no acoustic absorption at all in that floor currently
Does it make sense to go through some effort to dampen floor resonances further?
Options (I can think of):
- install 6" to 10" thick rock wool between the floor joists to improve the absorption.
- add additional joists between existing floor joists to even out the support, or add perpendicular pieces to offer support in the other direction (between the floor joists). How many?
- use some kind of math formula to make the placement of cross-pieces acoustically significant.
- stagger the vertical depth of the rock wool with some acoustic plan to even out absorption at various frequencies
2. Use large wide broadband absorbers to alter the reflection angles of the room from front to back.
We all know the pitfalls of parallel walls in a room, but what if we built wall-length sound absorbers to try to control those reflections. Does making and installing something like this make sense? (dimensions/thickness are arbitrary; just for the inquiry) :
Thanks for any feedback!