Ummmm.... Why? What's wrong with your slab? If it is built properly, then it would be a bad idea to trap the moisture inside the slab with plastic sheeting on top as well as below...Since I'm putting 6 mil poly under the laminate flooring anyway,
There's a simple but nor scientific method: Tape a piece of plastic to the floor, and see if condensation forms under it. Just cut out a fair size piece of transparent 6mil plastic, maybe a square foot or so, and tape it to the floor around all the edges, using duct tape or some such. Leave it for a couple of days. Then check to see if there are any droplets of water on the underside of the plastic. If so, you have a problem! If not, then you don't.Is there a way to measure humidity/moisture levels?
Yep! It sure is good to see you back again, and making progress again! I always wondered what happened to your build: really happy to see it moving again... Following....Thanks for the reply Stuart! good to hear from you its been a while
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(not sure WHICH product they are referring to)Irrelevant and meaningless for insulation! Insulation by itself is very, very lousy for acoustic isolation: it is mostly AIR, and there is free passage of air all the way through! Insulation only works for isolation when it is part of a SYSTEM. Advertising that insulation has a good STC rating is about as intelligent as advertising that your shock absorbers can go 240 km/h! Sure they can, but only when they are part of a a CAR! By themselves, they ain't goin' no place.... So that's misleading advertising at best, especially if there is no actual acoustic data to go on.because they claim it has the same STC
So it's around 120 kg/m3?same STC as rock wool with 265% its density
Ummmm.... seems rather HEAVY!!If I remember reading correctly on another thread, for fiberglass 30kg/m3 is optimal and for mineral wool 50kg/m3 is optimal.
I think they were implying that theirs is around 17 kg/m3 (265% on that is 45 kg/m3)??? either way it seems fishy - they know the density but don't want to list it anywhere.....same STC as rock wool with 265% its density
So it's around 120 kg/m3?
. . .I've narrowed down the things I am still struggling with in a short list:
Right! And that's a problem...but there is a large gap very little mass (backer rod and caulk only):
Right! And that's a problem...leaves coupled but....
Well..... umm... you put four screws in the four holes on each handle, and you are done!2. Any ideas how they do doors like this without a handle/latch?
Same place as for a conventional wall. Yes, it's not ideal since you still have the drywall exposed to the cavity, but it will still be warm, and therefore there should be no condensation happening there. Sometimes people don't realize what a vapor barrier actually does, and they confuse it with a water barrier or air barrier: it isn't...But how does a vapor barrier get installed on an inside out wall? Or rather WHERE does it go,
If you aren't sure, this might help: https://buildingscience.com/documents/d ... r-barriers . I realize neither one of these situation is ideal, the problem is, I'm forced to do a single door due to space limitations. So I have to choose one of these methodsbut there is a large gap very little mass (backer rod and caulk only):
Right! And that's a problem...
Quote:
leaves coupled but....
Right! And that's a problem...
I wasn't sure if a heavy duty door closer could press into the seals properly, maybe I was overthinking it. Stuart are you familiar with these things called called roller bolts? or sometimes a ball-catcher? used in conjunction with no handle/latch?
it would be fairly hard if not impossible to figure out ahead of time if I would even need these and if so how many I would need (closer strength, door weight, force required to press into seals, etc...). I guess they could be added later if I go with a wood door? I'm hoping I should be ok with just a heavy duty door closer. LMAOOO hahahaWell..... umm... you put four screws in the four holes on each handle, and you are done!
We had 2 nights of very heavy rain as well so the ground outside got pretty wet, and still bone dry in the basement. Im am curious though if in the summertime this would be different? My old basement (which has had tons of issues moisture issues by the way, got noticeably more humid in the summer. In not saying all of this humidity came from through the slab, but perhaps some?rough opening 33" W x 75" tallQuestion? How wide are your doors? An how thick? And how heavy?
my door framing: That's a 4x4 on the left that the jack-stud is attached to (which would be the hinge side, door opening in towards us). so essentially the king stud is a 4x4. if I went with Rod's coupled through jamb, that would seem to add a lot of strength front to back since the outer and inner leaf wall are both now supporting the door framing.If you go with Rod's super-door, you will need to greatly beef up the framing.
Well, you'll need SOMETHING to join them! If not that, then what? You could use ordinary flex duct, if your dimensions and calculations allow for that,If i have a 1 silencer box on my outside leaf and then a 2nd on the inside leaf....do I still need one of these heavy duty sleeves? )