Just a quick question..

Sen · Post by **Sen** » Fri Apr 18, 2003 5:46 pm

How would you idealy finish your slat resonator wall? Do the plaster wall first and then stick the slot resonator boxes on it, or just put the slats straight onto the frame? Would the version with plaster have better STC?

Also (well this makes it 2 questions)

...whats the quietest roof covering material?

Thanks heaps

Post by **John Sayers** » Sat Apr 19, 2003 11:39 am

It depends on how you are building your wall. If you look at Luis's walls at S.Productions at http://johnlsayers.com/Studio/index.htm you'll notice he has built the wall with the plaster on the outside. This is a space saver because he can now add the slats to the inside and he has a treated wall that's only 4" - 5" thick. The alternative is to plaster your wall first and then build the boxes on the wall. As you can see you end up with a 8 -10" wall thickness.

I'm not sure about the difference in STC but it appears to work well in practice. Left bank is built that way and it's isolation is fine.

For roofing material the quietest here in Australia is Fiberous Cement sheet roofing. (originally made with asbestos but now that's banned). I think they also make it in a tile version. You lay it on rolls of insulation between it and the roofing battens. I'd ask Knightfly in the construction forum what he thinks.

cheers
john

Sen · Post by **Sen** » Sat Apr 19, 2003 2:50 pm

Thanks John,
So that wall construction at S.Production is basically your "inside-out" design. I'm glad to hear that it works well because (as you said) it saves much more space.
With the "inside-out" version, I was just wandering,.. if you wanted to do one part of your slat wall as a completely sealed panel absorber/bass trap (to, sort of, put a panel over two studs and seal the space completely), would that structure make it the unwanted "3 leaves and 2 air gaps" (provided that there's an outside wall as well). Or would a panel absorber be unnecessary, assuming that the slat resonator (with right slat/slot width , distance from the back panel and insulation) could go low enough to absorb some bass. Of course there are allways corners of the rooms to put bass traps in, but a couple on the side walls wouldn't hurt either...

Thanks for the roof tile info as well.

hope everyone's having good easter h/days

knightfly · Post by **knightfly** » Sat Apr 19, 2003 9:20 pm

Sen, as near as I can find out the "3 leaves and 2 air gaps" thing refers to sound PROOFing, not sound conditioning - since you're trying to build an absorber, the criterion of sound PROOFing isn't applied.

As far as roofing material, one of the quieter ways here in the US (for normal houses, that is) is to use what sounds like the same stuff John is referring to - here, we would put 5/8" exterior grade plywood over roof trusses, followed by at least one layer of 30 lb roofing "felt", and then heavy grade 3-tab fiberglas shingles - this requires a roof pitch of at least 4/12 for proper run-off.

For a studio, I would beef that up anywhere I could, with more mass - for example, go one size heavier on truss lumber and use 3/4" plywood, at least two layers of roofing felt, or one layer of 90 pound bituminous roll roofing, then use the heavy fiberglas 3-tab shingles over that.

Inside, you'll want resilient channel and at least two layers of wall board - if you order "scissor" type trusses and put the RC right on the trusses, you can get a vaulted ceiling (at least in the tracking room) for more room volume and one less parallel surface... Steve

Sen · Post by **Sen** » Sat Apr 19, 2003 10:27 pm

Thanks Steve...
I just realized that sometimes even if you're not confused you think you are and you assume and ask unnecessary

...., but thanks for your clarification anyway.
I am actually deciding at the moment on the ceiling structure and how far from the actual roof, to get, as you said, as much volume as I can.
After I've come up with a couple of options I'll probably be a pain and post back to ask the opinions

thank you