Re: SSDC1 Single Garage conversion in Maryland USA
Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2017 6:47 am
Just northeast of the DC beltway
A World of Experience
https://johnlsayersarchive.com/
Do you have a plan for that figured out?they have fire suppression sprinkler heads scattered around and these will have to be 'dealt with'.
Have you taken a look at ITU BS.1116-3? That should be your guideline for the acoustics response of the room.The intents here are for the control/voice room to be, first, a trustable monitoring room.
What type of wall did you have in mid here? A typical house wall will get you roughly 30 dB of isolation, so your roaring monster will end up around 45 dB. Perhaps not silent enough? Are you planning to do a proper "room-in-a-room" build?The biggest thing there is the added wall with door to close it off from the hallway that has the HVAC roaring. A quick ballpark check with my phone dB meter (studio six digital) says this runs around 75dB at the hallway where the wall will go.
Depends on what your goal is, and what your design concept is, as well as the existing construction, and also your budget....in the more critical control/voice room, since I'm going for isolation AND a trustable mixing playback sound,
with inside-out added walls , DO you bother to pull the drywall off, instal added eletrical, then put the drywall back on the original walls...
OR
do you just not take the original-wall drywall off in the first place, add the electrical on top of the original drywall in conduit, and bring that back in through the new inner walls?
Then it seems that you do need proper "room-in-a-room" construction.Foot falls and movement noise from teh upstairs through the ceiling is a very real issue. That has to come down and have some reasonable isolation done.
My thought at this point is that I ought to strip drywall from walls and ceiling in the mix room, trying to re-use the drywall re-installed against the back side of the walls as recommended for added mass.
Yes, and that is regardless of whether you do inside-out walls or conventional walls. The issue is not how you build your inner leaf, but rather that it needs to be built as a single leaf, which when combined with the existing single leaf (studs with drywall only on one side) will give you the two-leaf system that you need.If I do inside-out wall construction, do I leave the original walls without surface drywall?
I'm not sure I understand the question: You ALWAYS need to put insulation in the wall cavity between your two leaves, regardless of how you build. It does not matter if you build the inner-leaf inside out wall or conventional, you still always need insulation in the cavity. The purpose of that insulation is to act as a damper on the resonances going on in the cavity, and that is always necessary. I'm not sure why you would think that putting insulation in the cavity would allow you to add an extra leaf. I don't follow the reasoning there at all.Since the inside-out design has a layer of absorption on the far side, does that mitigate the two-leaf-rule and can/should I put drywall back over the original walls as more mass?
Yup!The full-bore answer of course is to strip ALL drywall and ceilings and have a blank slate.
If that were my place, I'd pull up the OSB and save it for re-use in other places, and use the concrete slab as the studio floor.Not sure WHY that wood layer is there, or whether to extend and use it as the main floor base, or to pull it up and stay with the concrete.
I would suggest that your best course of action here is to create a complete, accurate model of your current situation in SketchUp, then post it here so we can take a look at it. Then also do a second version that includes what your current plans for the inner leaf rooms, so we can see if it makes sense, and suggest ways of improving it.Does this change the approach to the usual ceiling design wherein you strip the existing ceiling drywall, maybe add a layer of drywall up against the underside of the upper-floor decking, then add insulation, then RISC clips and a new ceiling?...