New (Small Home Studio) Build, Norway

[studioNorWay]

Awesome, have you made some progress lately? I'd love to see some more pics.

I will try to post as regularly as i can ... Im getting good progress now and will start on the door and window installation after the drum riser is finished

[cgomez_blacksun]

Awesome, have you made some progress lately? I'd love to see some more pics.

I will try to post as regularly as i can ... Im getting good progress now and will start on the door and window installation after the drum riser is finished

How to make the room riser? 1 layer of OC 703 with three ply of MDF?

[studioNorWay]

Awesome, have you made some progress lately? I'd love to see some more pics.

I will try to post as regularly as i can ... Im getting good progress now and will start on the door and window installation after the drum riser is finished

How to make the room riser? 1 layer of OC 703 with three ply of MDF?

I am not an expert on drum riser so the description below is just what I went for. It will have to be up to the experts to explain the best option.
My drum riser was made to prevent for the impact noise made for my guitar amplifiers. My drum riser is resting on my original concrete flooring.
I made a frame resting freely with space around the walls for calc. I did not use OC703 but Rockwool. Also I finished it of with two layers of 22 mm chipboards (screwed-glued). I will finish of the floor with Linoleum.

[Soundman2020]

Glenn posted these images of his design for a drum riser, several years ago. I haven't come across a better design yet!

GLENN-example drum riser 2.jpg

GLENN-example drum riser 1.jpg

It's self explanatory.

And this photo:

glenn-drum_room.jpg

- Stuart -

[studioNorWay]

Glenn posted these images of his design for a drum riser, several years ago. I haven't come across a better design yet!
- Stuart -

I see now that I have misunderstood the whole concept of Glens drum riser design. Yes, It's self explanatory. I will have to redo mine as you have mention above. Thanks Stuart for clarifying this for us.

[Soundman2020]

The important thing with Glenn's design is that the ONLY part that touches the floor, is the insulation. The entire platform rests only on insulation. The wood skirt around the edges does not touch the floor: it's only there for cosmetic reasons: to hide the edges of the wood and insulation. But there's a half inch gap between the bottom edge of that skirt, and the floor.

- Stuart -

[studioNorWay]

The important thing with Glenn's design is that the ONLY part that touches the floor, is the insulation. The entire platform rests only on insulation. The wood skirt around the edges does not touch the floor: it's only there for cosmetic reasons: to hide the edges of the wood and insulation. But there's a half inch gap between the bottom edge of that skirt, and the floor.

- Stuart -

Thanks Stuart for clarifying. Some questions though. I don’t know how to get 703 in Norway. Will 22mm 0.787 inch Rockwool boards work?

[studioNorWay]

The important thing with Glenn's design is that the ONLY part that touches the floor, is the insulation. The entire platform rests only on insulation. The wood skirt around the edges does not touch the floor: it's only there for cosmetic reasons: to hide the edges of the wood and insulation. But there's a half inch gap between the bottom edge of that skirt, and the floor.

- Stuart -

Thanks Stuart for clarifying. Some questions though. I don’t know how to get 703 in Norway. Will 22mm 0.787 inch Rockwool boards work?

It seems that the rockwool Rw3 (60kg/m3) is somewhat simulare to oc 703. So 50 mm (2’’) on the floor will work or am I totaly waaaaaaay of here.

[Soundman2020]

I have never tried that myself, but I reckon it should work just fine.


- Stuart -

[studioNorWay]

Thanks Stuart. I have ordered all flooring materials. Will arrive in a few weeks or so. Meanwhile Im installing the double doors. Doors are fitted with a roller locking mechanism so I dont need the holes for the door handels. The door will close on push and open if pulled. Finished the frame with foam rod into the cracks (both sides of the door) and then caulk. The inside between the frames will be fitted with cloth covered rockwoll. Still wating for my ordered cloth so this will have to come later. I havent desided what to do on the bottom inside the frame as walking on the cloth will destroy it. Any ideas will be appreciated.

[Gregwor]

Doors are fitted with a roller locking mechanism so I dont need the holes for the door handels. The door will close on push and open if pulled.

Can you link us to the manufacturer's specs for those hinges? I don't like the idea that you only have 3 hinges per door. For any heavy doors, manufacturers typically recommend at least 4 hinges, even when they're heavy duty models.

I dont need the holes for the door handels.

This is great, but personally I dislike the fact that the handles are on opposite sides of your doors. It will make entering or exiting the room more of a task. It's already annoying having to walk through two doors.

I havent desided what to do on the bottom inside the frame as walking on the cloth will destroy it. Any ideas will be appreciated.

You could just add a strip of wood across the gap, but leave a very small gap. You could fill that gap with backer rod and sealant to prevent debris from going down into the small crack while maintaining the decoupling. Here's a few pictures showing what I mean courtesy of Stuart:

Site-built-door--BRAUS--109%2B--frames-shimmed-and-squared-2.jpg

Site-built-door--BRAUS--112%2B--inner-door-hung.jpg

Site-built-door--BRAUS--114%2B--both-open-seals-and-gap.jpg

Greg

[studioNorWay]

Hi Gregwor. Thanks allot for taking the time to give feedback. I really appresiate it.

Doors are fitted with a roller locking mechanism so I dont need the holes for the door handels. The door will close on push and open if pulled.
Can you link us to the manufacturer's specs for those hinges? I don't like the idea that you only have 3 hinges per door. For any heavy doors, manufacturers typically recommend at least 4 hinges, even when they're heavy duty models.

I’ve attached a picture of the manufacture specification. Each hinge can handle a load of 120 kg.
Do you think I should add one more hinge on each door? Each door is not that big; 200 cm (78 inch) height, 80 cm (31 inch) width. The weight of the door is about 80 kg.

This is great, but personally I dislike the fact that the handles are on opposite sides of your doors. It will make entering or exiting the room more of a task. It's already annoying having to walk through two doors.

I quite agree with you on this point. This was a decision a made due to the fact that the room is so small. From the outside I needed to get the door fully open to get equipment inside the room. At the same time the other door needed to open the other way so it didn’t come in the way of my equipment. See attached photo.

You could just add a strip of wood across the gap, but leave a very small gap. You could fill that gap with backer rod and sealant to prevent debris from going down into the small crack while maintaining the decoupling. Here's a few pictures showing what I mean courtesy of Stuart:

Site-built-door--BRAUS--109%2B--frames-shimmed-and-squared-2.jpg

Site-built-door--BRAUS--112%2B--inner-door-hung.jpg

Site-built-door--BRAUS--114%2B--both-open-seals-and-gap.jpg

Thanks allot. I will do as specified

[Gregwor]

I’ve attached a picture of the manufacture specification. Each hinge can handle a load of 120 kg.
Do you think I should add one more hinge on each door? Each door is not that big; 200 cm (78 inch) height, 80 cm (31 inch) width. The weight of the door is about 80 kg.

Typically, on overall hinge specs like that, they are assuming you're using 3 hinges. So, I'd guess that 3 of your hinges TOGETHER will handle a door weighing 120 kg.

As a final note on this topic, I will point out the fact that when hinges wear out, the door will sag. Sag is normal and accepted for typical entry doors. In a studio where the seals must be perfectly seated, sag is not acceptable. For that reason alone, I would over compensate and add a 4th hinge.

I quite agree with you on this point. This was a decision a made due to the fact that the room is so small. From the outside I needed to get the door fully open to get equipment inside the room. At the same time the other door needed to open the other way so it didn’t come in the way of my equipment. See attached photo.

I totally understand. I just hope it doesn't bother you too much in the future.

Greg

[studioNorWay]

I’ve attached a picture of the manufacture specification. Each hinge can handle a load of 120 kg.
Do you think I should add one more hinge on each door? Each door is not that big; 200 cm (78 inch) height, 80 cm (31 inch) width. The weight of the door is about 80 kg.

Typically, on overall hinge specs like that, they are assuming you're using 3 hinges. So, I'd guess that 3 of your hinges TOGETHER will handle a door weighing 120 kg.

As a final note on this topic, I will point out the fact that when hinges wear out, the door will sag. Sag is normal and accepted for typical entry doors. In a studio where the seals must be perfectly seated, sag is not acceptable. For that reason alone, I would over compensate and add a 4th hinge.

I quite agree with you on this point. This was a decision a made due to the fact that the room is so small. From the outside I needed to get the door fully open to get equipment inside the room. At the same time the other door needed to open the other way so it didn’t come in the way of my equipment. See attached photo.

I totally understand. I just hope it doesn't bother you too much in the future.

Greg

Thanks for clarifying Greg. I have ordered two new hinges.

[studioNorWay]

This weeks update. Started redoing the floor as specified (insulation - 2 layers of MDF - Finishing off with plywood an calc around the edges)