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Electrical Conduit Installation

Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 12:24 pm
by Riad
Hi,

My electrician finished installing the electric in the studio. I instructed him to run metal conduit through the studio with separate runs between each of the rooms.

All went well, however he ran the conduit behind the wall and pushed the receptacle box through the wall thus creating an opening in the wall where each box is instead of one hole for the conduit and all the metal conduit run inside the studio - he basically defeated the purpose of running the conduit. Can I easily caulk and sound proof the room with all these outlets in the walls?

Thanks guys,
Rob

Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 3:25 pm
by Aaronw
If your drywall isn't up yet, be sure to caulk all the holes/gaps, etc. really well. If you have access to the backside, if the drywall is up, be sure to seal around the hole as well.

Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 3:58 pm
by Riad
Yeah, I'm definately going to do that... I can get around both sides of the wall. No sheet rock is up yet...

Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 4:04 pm
by Aaronw
You can put up that front drywall, seal the heck out of it...Acoustical Sealant so it doesn't shrink. I don't know how well these work, but you can also get those squishy foam pieces made for outlets that are usually used to seal for weatherizing. You might add those on as well for an additional seal.

Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 4:44 pm
by Riad
Yes I have the acoustic sealant and I'll do that. I also asked the electrician to supply those outlets as if they were for outdoor use - the foam with the spring loaded cover. I guess that's the best I could do for now.

Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 4:52 pm
by Aaronw
I was just referring to what goes indoors for weather sealing (keeping the cold out), but that may work. I don't know if it's against codes or not, or how well it helps, but I would imagine placing a little insulation in the back of the outlet may help (some rockwool or something) Something that won't catch fire.

The main thing is just caulking the heck out of it. Another thing too, if you have outlets on the opposite side of the wall, be sure to stagger the outlets on different cavities. If you're using wood studs, be sure to caulk around where the conduit comes in, around where the frame and drywall meet (to reduce flanking noise) and where the studs meet the bottom and top plate.

Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 5:00 pm
by knightfly
If none of your wallboard is up yet, is there a way to bring the conduit thru the wall at just one place and run surface molding/outlets from there? Just a thought... Steve

Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 6:17 pm
by Riad
Steve,

That was the original plan... somehow that message got its wires crossed in translation to the electrician (sorry about the pun, its been a long day).

I would hate to rip out all the conduit and do it again if I really don't have to...

Rob

Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 6:28 pm
by Aaronw
So what would it take to have the electrician do it right like he should have?

Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 7:32 pm
by knightfly
This is just ONE facet of why the "big boy" studios cost so friggen' much to build - they know better (and have the budget) NOT to use general construction help, but instead use only people who are knowledgeable about studios and their peculiarities.

The only way around this for us small and medium fry, is to start each new association with craft people by saying, I know you know your job, but I know exactly what I want. If you're not willing to do things as I NEED them done instead of the way you THINK you know, then walk away. I'll find someone who will LISTEN. If you think something I want done won't meet code or is dangerous, DISCUSS it with me BEFOREHAND, do NOT just do it "the right way". If we're clear on that, fine. If not, thanks for stopping by...

If you want serious isolation in your construction, don't put a bunch of un-necessary holes in it. It's hard enough to deal with the MANDATORY holes, such as HVAC, doors, etc. - Even conduits will transmit 'way too much sound - plastic still does this, just a different frequency. Even stuffing both ends with fiberglas/ductseal doesn't completely fix this, although it helps.

Can you do a basic drawing of what you have in place? Maybe that will help someone come up with an idea that beats ripping it out and finding an electrician that can follow directions... Steve

Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 9:33 pm
by Riad
It really sucks because I had to run out while he was doing the studio part of the basement (he's wiring the entire basement). I'm going to make him redo it. I've spent so much time and money on this project I can't settle, and it's not that much work to have him move the pipes since he didn't snake the wires yet.

Here are some pics...

http://www.pbase.com/riadanza/electric

Thanks,
Rob

You can also go back to the root gallery and see more construction pics.

Posted: Sat Feb 21, 2004 2:56 am
by knightfly
Not that any of those shots are OK, but the one in #3 is a BIIIIGGG No-No - you don't want ANY perforations in both leaves of a sound wall that close to each other. One of those outlets MUST go somewhere else, at least a couple of bays to one side or the other... Steve

Posted: Sat Feb 21, 2004 9:40 am
by Riad
Absolutely... that was the first thing I looked at... doesn't matter it's all getting done the correct way. Electrician is coming back on monday. Isn't this fun!!

Thanks!