Hi Mario,, and welcome!
A few comments that might help:
dual layer 5/8" drywall with GreenGlue and framing joist 2" x 4" will not be touching the wall directly, as they will be seperated by neoprene pad.
What is the purpose of the neoprene pad? If I understand correctly, you plan to install neoprene pads between your framing and your drywall. Is that correct? That does not serve any useful purpose. The nails or screws that you use to attache the drywall to the studs will short-circuit the neoprene, and sound will flank through the nails. In any event, if you are building a separate stud wall, then you don't need to decouple the drywall further, as it is already decoupled.
The concrete floor framing will be bolted in and separated by 10 mm neoprene and moisture protector.
What do you mean by "concrete floor framing"? Are you saying that you are going to place a wooden frame over neoprene pads, on top of your concrete slab, then build a floor on top of that? If so, that's probably a bad idea. That would be a floated floor, which is really hard to do correctly.
It sounds like you are planning to float your walls to! Have you done all the loading calculations for that? What deflection are you aiming for on the rubber, how much margin do you have for error, and what is the loading? Is the loading even all around, or does it change in some places, such as under the door frames, and how are you dealing with that? What is the total mass of your walls plus ceiling?
The ceiling and wall separating rooms will include a dual layer 5/8" drywall with GreenGlue + a Genie Clip and hat track.
Are you saying that you plan to build a single stud wall to separate your rooms, with iso clips and hat channel on one side? Would it not be easier / cheaper to build a staggered stud wall, which would get you more or less the same isolation, or even better, build a double stud wall for much better isolation?
The floor will be a challenge with height limitations. I am thinking of using a tongue and groove press wood with neoprene ½” pads underneath and adding ...
From the photos, it looks like the existing concrete slab is in pretty good condition. Why not just use that for your floor? Why do you need to go to all the trouble and expense of trying to float a new floor, when you already have a good one? Especially considering the high probability of failing to get it right?
I also added drywall to the ceiling with GreenGlue (no photo), there eventually will be Safe & Sound isolation added in the ceiling. I'm just wondering if adding the drywall will help much?
If I understand you correctly, you are saying that you beefed up the subfloor above you between the joists using pieces of drywall cut to fit between the joists, and yo plan to put some kind of insulation up there? Is that it? If not, then please could you explain what you did, and maybe post some photos.
When you say you "added drywall with Green Glue", what exactly do you mean? Are you saying that you glued the drywall in place using Green Glue? Green Glue is not an adhesive. You can't use it to stick things together. It is a visco-elastic damping polymer. It is not glue. It is only supposed to be used between layers of drywall that are either nailed or screwed in place.
Are you planning to install resilient channel across those exposed joists and then put a couple of layers of drywall on that? That would be excellent, and would use the least amount of height for reasonable isolation.
Another related question, can I utilize a plastic polyurethane vapor barrier to hold the insulation in place, I'm thinking this could cause mold problems.
String is better, or pallet strapping.
It would be good if you could post a detailed SketchUp model of what you are planning to do.
- Stuart -
