Sonolink Studio Project

Plans and things, layout, style, where do I put my near-fields etc.

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gullfo
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Re: Sonolink Studio Project

Post by gullfo »

it's not critical. they don't have magical properties they just keep the cloud from becoming completely dead. you could use thin plywood and cut out sections to do effectively the same thing.
Glenn
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Re: Sonolink Studio Project

Post by sonolink »

I see...those look cool too :mrgreen:
But I thought you would want the "sky" to be "infinite" though, isn't that so? I think I read that at Winer's site a couple of years ago, I'm not sure though...
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M.P.Stavrou
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Re: Sonolink Studio Project

Post by Soundman2020 »

I think I read that at Winer's site a couple of years ago, I'm not sure though...
Ethan was talking about tracking rooms there, I think. Low ceilings, mics high up (EG: for drum overheads). That's where you want a nice dead ceiling, with thick insulation. Not so much for control rooms, which need to be balanced, neither too dead nor to "live". It looks like Glen is talking about control rooms here.

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Re: Sonolink Studio Project

Post by sonolink »

Ethan Winer wrote:Although it is often desirable to alternate hard and soft surfaces on the walls, I often recommend covering the entire ceiling with absorbent material, especially if the ceiling is low. Besides eliminating floor to ceiling flutter echoes, full absorption can make the ceiling appear acoustically to be much higher. Most home studio owners cringe at the thought of making their ceilings even lower than they already are, but it really can help the sound. If you cover the entire ceiling with 2- to 4-inch thick 705, suspended with strings or wires to leave an air gap, the room will sound as if the ceiling were much higher. There's no difference between reflections that are reduced by the greater distance of a high ceiling and reflections from a low ceiling that are reduced by absorption. Using thick, dense fiberglass extends the simulated increase in height to lower frequencies. Where thin fiberglass makes the ceiling appear higher at midrange and high frequencies, using thicker and denser fiberglass with an air gap raises the apparent height at lower frequencies as well.
quoted from: http://www.ethanwiner.com/acoustics.htm ... 0or%20dead

Please don't get me wrong. I am not trying or want to start an argument here. I remember now that at the time I read this on Ethan's site, I was treating my mixing room in a flat I used to rent, and found very interesting the possibility of "heightening" the ceiling. My present situation is totally different, but I'd still appreciate your comments on this, please.

Cheers
Sono
Why sleep when you can mix?
M.P.Stavrou
gullfo
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Re: Sonolink Studio Project

Post by gullfo »

there are as many opinions as there are hours in a year... the control room listening space is fairly personal although there are a few common rules: little or no reflections which confuse the direct signal, proper balance of frequency response, and little or no coloration (timbre, etc) which distract from the material. having a room which is fully absorptive or fully reflective, if it meets those three criteria, then its all good.
Glenn
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Re: Sonolink Studio Project

Post by sonolink »

I guess that's the wonderful nature of our ears to be so adaptive, right? Well for me it's a new lesson, and it's good to know that this absorbent ceiling concept is not carved in stone :mrgreen:
Back to the slat frames now!
Cheers
Sono
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M.P.Stavrou
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Re: Sonolink Studio Project

Post by sonolink »

Weekend is over, back on the road!!

So, speaker stands filled with sand, central slat wall frame (in between soffits) nearly finished. Man, do I hate caulk!! :wink:

Only one little question today :mrgreen:

On this central slat wall, I will hang a 32" Screen. Screwing the VESA support thingy direct onto the slat is kinda dodgy, so shall I:

A- Build a vertical reinforcement structure inside the frame, made of 50x40mm studs. This structure would be right behind the slats (like the frame). The slats would be screwed to it and then the screen VESA support would be screwed to the slats.

B- Divide the central slat wall in three sections from bottom to top:1) bass trap port and absorbent indent covered in cloth (matching the soffits), 2) Either reflective or absorbent surface at aprox speaker height (where the screen goes), 3) slat wall on top.
Something like this:
SlatScreen.jpg
Note that the top section will probably be, at least partially, masked by the cloud nearest to the front wall

Any other ideas/suggestions are very welcome as usual
Cheers
Sono
Why sleep when you can mix?
M.P.Stavrou
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Re: Sonolink Studio Project

Post by gullfo »

B should work well. in general though, having a proper frame built behind the slats should be used to support the weight, not the slats themselves. this way if you find you need a larger monitor :twisted: then you have the structure in place to support it.
Glenn
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Re: Sonolink Studio Project

Post by sonolink »

gullfo wrote:in general though, having a proper frame built behind the slats should be used to support the weight, not the slats themselves. this way if you find you need a larger monitor :twisted: then you have the structure in place to support it.
Sorry for being unclear, but that's exactly what I meant to say in A :D
The part of the slats behind the screen will be screwed to the frame. That's ok, right?
Something like this
Screen.skp
Cheers
Sono
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M.P.Stavrou
gullfo
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Re: Sonolink Studio Project

Post by gullfo »

should be fine, just remember the bottom is absorptive like the baffles...
Glenn
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Re: Sonolink Studio Project

Post by sonolink »

Excellent :D

I'd like to know your thoughts about the back of the studio. The rear wall in my room is uneven as you can see on the attached pics. I thought that filling with insulation the deepest part to get a homogeneous absorptive surface would be the thing to do. But this was some time ago (it seems like a looong time ago since all this began :D ). Is it worth it or I am wasting space?
Top01.jpg
Another added problem at the rear of the room is the door. It's very near the corner, so much so, that a big superchunk (100mm wide) wouldn't fit. Shame cos it does fit in the other corner, and for once that I have the space....anyway, the first solution I came up with was to build the superchunk so that one part is on the wall and the other part is on the door. When the door is closed it's a 100mm wide superchunk.
BUT, this is easier said than done, as usual...although not impossible... 8)
Then I read a thread in which John has a similar issue, and to sort it, he uses different shaped superchunks.
Something like this:
Top2.jpg
Finally, I ended up wondering if I should just go with this:
Top3.jpg
Or this, that would give me some space for some storage, shelving, or similar...
Top4.jpg
What do you reckon? :mrgreen:
Thanks for your time and help
Cheers
Sono
Why sleep when you can mix?
M.P.Stavrou
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Re: Sonolink Studio Project

Post by gullfo »

either of the last two will do it. the flat one could have some flat absorbers added and you then have space for a small couch etc.
Glenn
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Re: Sonolink Studio Project

Post by Soundman2020 »

FWIW, I'd go with either of the last two. The look pretty similar, to my way of thinking.


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Re: Sonolink Studio Project

Post by sonolink »

Thanks a lot for ur fast replies, gentlemen :mrgreen:
gullfo wrote:the flat one could have some flat absorbers added and you then have space for a small couch etc.
That sounds very interesting. Could you please elaborate?

Cheers
Sono
Why sleep when you can mix?
M.P.Stavrou
gullfo
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Re: Sonolink Studio Project

Post by gullfo »

use the flat space in the last drawing to place a small couch. hang flat absorbers on the wall above it.
Glenn
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