JB's New Studio, the build thread

[jbassino]

Thanks for the suggestions!
However, I think the amount of different layers we are talking about here will hurt my budget a lot... I will spend just for the laminated flooring about $400 usd alone.
A sheet of 25mm MDF cost about $60, and I'll need 7 of these. = $420 just for that!

Damn it. I hate fixing things! instead of just making things from scratch that works! Thats the problem when you work on a house that wasnt designed for what we do. I already spent quite some money JUST for sealing windows, doors, fixing old doorways sealed with crappy studwalls, and all kind of god damn things i didnt want in there in the first place

You also suggested Drywall... but that seems a little bit fragile to me. since its just gypsum.. it could crackle or break by usage.. wont it??

I think plywood so far is the most realistic thing i could afford .
So. what about this
Existing wood floor - 6mm osb - Felt - Plywood - Acoustic felt before laminated floor - 8mm laminated floor

Actually. laminated floor is made of HDF which is quite a bit rigid.
We'll see!


-------
I have an specific question for John
There is a kind of "bug" in the recording room design. I'm talking about the window section.
Since you designed two framings. the window will be placed on the nearest framing, and all drywall layers will be placed over the framing towards the existing wall. right ? Ok.. having that.. we break the "airtight" system, the window is not part of the new "wall" anymore.. its laying onto a different framing. causing that sound will pass directly onto the control room window... is that understable?
so.. how do i deal with that?

[Ro]

J,

I'm sorry for all the extra $. I know how that feels. But, isn't it always this way. Your budget is always too small. (sigh...)
Save up for some extra cash and get the job done, the RIGHT way. Plywood doesn't have the mass GB or MDF has and it's not THAT much cheaper. Do it right the first time I'd say.

This build will cost you even more in the end, just go with it. Unless you want medium (or bad) results and go cheap. Hang in there bro!

[jbassino]

What about 20 mm mdf?

[Ro]

22mm MDF would be a better solution indeed.

[xSpace]

"I will spend just for the laminated flooring about $400 usd alone."

You are thinking to far into the future here. Get your floor massed correctly first, then worry about how to finish it later.

It will come to you, you just have to learn how to live in between time.

[jbassino]

Sure. I will go for MDF then!

On a side basis.
I'm in trouble designing my ventilation for the recording room. This is important now because we are framing the wall so any important change should be considered now
So far, this is what i've bought and plan to use.. now I need some insight to make it work without screwing my isolation.

I'm going to supply fresh air to the recording room (no AC) with 6" flex ducts. I purchased two wall mounting fans that I intend to use for either air extraction and air injection.
As you can see in my previous pics, I left two holes in my outer brickwall walls, that leads directly into the outer world. Furthermore, I plan to get the in/out duct ends in my ceiling, since I will use tile ceilings, its easier to put those grilles to air gets in/out.
So basically, there will be one fan getting air in trought a duct into my ceiling, and another fan getting air out with another duct into the ceiling.
I have considered the usage of silencers to bring the fan noise down. But I need your inspiration in order to maintain both wall penetrations to a certain degree. So far. there will be 4 holes in total (two in the ceiling drywall, and two into the outer concrete wall)

Questions:
- Where should I place the silencers?
- Where should I place the fans?
- Should I just stick the duct ends through my ceiling's drywall, so they blow/suck air into the room?
- How do I deal with sound transmission by making two 6" holes in my inner ceiling, and two 6" holes in my outer brickwall wall ?

I have attached a high resolution drawing of my idea

[Soundman2020]

Hi Javier. I should have some time this afternoon to get across and give you a hand again.

Regarding the ducting, I was thinking that the easiest (and cheapest) method is to not put them in the the ceiling, or at least, put only one in the ceiling, the venting for the other one can go directly through the wall. One of those holes though the brickwork where the door was can go directly to a vent in the inner-leaf wall RIGHT THERE! Just a short duct is all that we'll need. Only a few inches. On John's design, it looks like it should be fairly easy to integrate a vent into the wall around that point. I think I'd make this one the extraction fan, so it is sucking air out of the room.

The other vent (fresh air inlet) I think should go in the wall at the far end of the room (in the short wall opposite the door). That vent could go in the wall, or in the ceiling, but it should be as far away as possible from the first vent. Maybe the best place would be in the corner of the ceiling, next to that far wall, and close to the wall into the CR?

This afternoon I'll take the measurements for the silencer boxes, and design those for you tonight.

Did you decide on what to do for the arched window in the CR?


- Stuart -

[jbassino]

That sounds good to me.
But I'm only worried about sound escaping to the outside through the brickwall holes. Your plan is to "seal" those holes using the silencers? So they are outside the room? Anyway, the holes that we'll make on either the ceiling or walls on the INNER leaf cannot be sealed other than by the duct itself, caulked...

My original idea was to use ducts all the way so the holes on the inner leaf, doesnt match directly the holes on the brick wall. You know what I mean? I purchased 7 meters of 160mm flex ducts (owen cornings, looks very cool). so ducting is not an issue.
Anyway, I already purchased a so called "Difuser", which is a kind of grille that is designed for air inlets on Tile Ceilings.


About the CR window. To be honest, I'm not 100% sure about sealing that out. because I dont wanna loose the posibility in the future to just open the window to get fresh air or what not. Maybe I feel like smoking a cigarret on a lonely night, or a client farts really bad (lol).... and trust me I dont feel like puting ducts on my control room.
Today, We cut pieces of 25mm MDF sealing almost the whole window, not entirely, then we did a little test by puting a small radio system quite loud.. went to the outside and the noise level almost in the main doorway was unnoticeable.

Framing is done but the ceiling. Tomorrow we start puting drywall and insulation. When you think you coulg stop by to look at the ducting thing? We are working really fast every day

Anyone else has more thoughts about that?

Cheers

[jbassino]

Framing done. Now drywalling and caulking. We'll have to move that big wall to its final position. thats going to be HEAVY
That was the best method so far instead of building it by pieces, because we were able to cover all the studs with drywall (fixing the "exposed" stud problem)
I wish I had John here to look at the progress!

Cheers

[jbassino]

More progress today (no pics)
We moved the big wall.. ouch! we needed 6 guys to do it.. barely!
Now we finished the opossite wall.
Building inside out SUCKS!! i will definetaly not do it again

[mika]

Building inside out SUCKS!! i will definetaly not do it again

I belive
Thats the reason, why i spent the money for the little extra insulation


cheers
mika

[jbassino]

So basically, we did a plain flat ceiling (inside out of course) covering the WHOLE room, and finally, we will install the angled framings that will suport the slot resonators. Much easier

I hope you made sure that the cavity behind the slots was sealed off else they won't work!

[Soundman2020]

(no pics again

No pics? Then you know what that means: it didn't happen!!!! (Except that I saw it happen)

It's starting to look like a room, finally!

Lesson learned today while caulking: Do not use the transparent stuff! You can't see what's happening while you apply it, and even after you finish you have to look really carefully to make sure it is done right. We also tried white, black, and "aluminium" colored caulk. The best turned out to be black, followed closely by aluminium. Very easy to see what you are doing as it goes on, and easy to check later.

- Stuart -

[John Sayers]

good one guys

[jbassino]

Maybe John, Stuart or anyone could get a moment of inspiration and help me out arranging my panels and think about what to do with my front wall.

So far, Id like to put a couple of hangers in the back wall as in the picture. There will be a tile ceiling (made of fiberglass!) angled towards the mix position. And I already built and own 6 10cm basstrap panels
Id like to maintain symetry obviously, and the window glass is giving me a headache. I will probably aim the CR window glass towards the ceiling or floor so it doesnt directly reflect sound at my right ear.

The most difficult part is the front wall, as you can see, the window (that I want to keep, I like natural light) is almost touching the corner, so I cant put a superchunk kind of framing there.
Ideas?