https://www.homelogic.co.uk/is-spray-fo ... ent-proof/I know stuart has suggested expanding foam to me in the past, but my worry is that rats and mice and moles could chew through this and get up inside the walls!
- Stuart -
Moderators: Aaronw, kendale, John Sayers
https://www.homelogic.co.uk/is-spray-fo ... ent-proof/I know stuart has suggested expanding foam to me in the past, but my worry is that rats and mice and moles could chew through this and get up inside the walls!
Thank-you Stuart, that's interesting - seems there are very differing opinions else where online with many complaining about rats and mice eating through this spray insulation. Theres people that are even mixing wire wool in with the foam insulation to deter rodents as they don't like chewing on metal. If I did this would it compromise my isolation or would it not likely make much difference?Soundman2020 wrote:https://www.homelogic.co.uk/is-spray-fo ... ent-proof/I know stuart has suggested expanding foam to me in the past, but my worry is that rats and mice and moles could chew through this and get up inside the walls!
- Stuart -
Thanks for the encouragement Greg! Yes I will post as many pics as possible.Gregwor wrote:That IS a lot of hard work. It will only make you appreciate your finished studio more in the end. Keep pushing forward and please, continue to post lots of pictures for us! That's the best part for all of us here on the forum.
Great work!
Greg
Yeah, we decided that the entrance needed to be where I had originally drawn the bathroom to be, which means there's this extra corridor now basically. I think it seems like wasted space if I make the control room bigger and therefore it's not big enough to be used as a lounge and kitchen.Gregwor wrote:Bigger control room.
However, with your new designs, it seems like the hallway is wasted space. You don't have much/any real storage. I feel like some re-arranging could allow you to have storage instead of hallway.
Greg
I can get behind your logic. I think you should explore having your live room entry door in the middle of that wall so that you can put a bass trap in each of the corners.I think it seems like wasted space if I make the control room bigger and therefore it's not big enough to be used as a lounge and kitchen.
Thanks for the fast reply, all valid points. BTW I am not dismissing making the CR wider, it would be great I just can't come up with a good use of the hallways space if I do so.Gregwor wrote:I can get behind your logic. I think you should explore having your live room entry door in the middle of that wall so that you can put a bass trap in each of the corners.I think it seems like wasted space if I make the control room bigger and therefore it's not big enough to be used as a lounge and kitchen.
Also, I see that you've created a 3 leaf system for your ISO cab rooms. You should address that.
Lastly, without having an outer leaf wall outside of your control room and live room (in the hallway), it means that any recording you will do could be compromised by someone leaving the control room into that hallway or anyone coming in from outside. There will also be no sound lock preventing noise from getting outside or inside your studio anytime the outside door is opened. I think it's such a small detail (one outer leaf wall is soooooo easy to make) that you should just build it. Also, you're going to have a harder time making your wall look decent where you have the gaps between your control room and the rest of the building than you would have just framing up the extra wall. I understand the headache of going through 2 doors, but that's the name of the game in my opinion.
Greg
You really just have to draw it out and make sure there are only ever 2 walls. It's that simple.So, regarding the 3 leaf system. Should I get rid of the 3 walls that attach to the control room wall to form the room and just have the outer walls? So the iso cabs as well as the whole of that room will actually be in my air gap? If I build another room within a room for that space then the iso cabs will create a 4 leaf system surely?
You could build yours like this picture, yes. This would leave you 3 doors. Again, the only disadvantage to this design is that anyone leaving your control room would create noise that would only be isolated to the live room by the mass law equation.so basically I would build the extra wall but instead of having doors just leave a cutout...see attached
Okay, but that's where I'm confused...Gregwor wrote:You really just have to draw it out and make sure there are only ever 2 walls. It's that simple.So, regarding the 3 leaf system. Should I get rid of the 3 walls that attach to the control room wall to form the room and just have the outer walls? So the iso cabs as well as the whole of that room will actually be in my air gap? If I build another room within a room for that space then the iso cabs will create a 4 leaf system surely?
You could build yours like this picture, yes. This would leave you 3 doors. Again, the only disadvantage to this design is that anyone leaving your control room would create noise that would only be isolated to the live room by the mass law equation.so basically I would build the extra wall but instead of having doors just leave a cutout...see attached
Greg
Always to the hard, solid, rigid, massive boundary of the room. Modes occur between room boundaries. Putting the hangers in will change the frequency of the modes a bit, yes, but they will go DOWN, not UP, implying that the waves "see" a longer room, not a smaller one. The reasons for that are a little complex, but it shows that the hangers don't make the room smaller. In fact, if putting hangers there DID make it shorter, then the hangers would not be able to do anything, as they would be beyond the termination of the wave!should I measure my room length to the front of that trap or to the back of that trap (where my actual inner wall is) when plugging dimensions into a modal calculator? I know that it's usually the dimensions created by the actual solid inner walls but wasn't sure if this changed when using such large hangers or not?
Thank-you Stuart, that's helped a lot. I am quite shocked that the soffits need to be at least 3 times the width of the speaker, is that including the middle section of the wall or just the two angled sections that hold the speakers? If it's the former then my soffits need to be over 8' wide each!Soundman2020 wrote:It looks pretty good, but your speaker soffits aren't really big enough for that size speaker. Generally, you want your soffit to be at least three times the width of the speaker. You also appear to have your speakers centered on the baffles, which isn't ideal, and the baffles appear to extend all the way down to the floor and up to the ceiling, which implies a wasted opportunity for major bass trapping under the speaker shelf and above the speaker soffit itself.
Always to the hard, solid, rigid, massive boundary of the room. Modes occur between room boundaries. Putting the hangers in will change the frequency of the modes a bit, yes, but they will go DOWN, not UP, implying that the waves "see" a longer room, not a smaller one. The reasons for that are a little complex, but it shows that the hangers don't make the room smaller. In fact, if putting hangers there DID make it shorter, then the hangers would not be able to do anything, as they would be beyond the termination of the wave!should I measure my room length to the front of that trap or to the back of that trap (where my actual inner wall is) when plugging dimensions into a modal calculator? I know that it's usually the dimensions created by the actual solid inner walls but wasn't sure if this changed when using such large hangers or not?
- Stuart -