River Nile Build

[Rivernile]

Ok Glenn i got you .

That was what i plan on doing.I ordered some 2'' 703 for the middle section of the back wall.
For the two back corners,since i will be putting slots on front should i cut rockwool into tringles and fill these corners or should there just be
a sheet of insulation hanging accros the face?

Also i have a bunch of 1'' rockwool board where is best locations for those? on the side slot walls?

thanks

[Rivernile]

Also does anyone know where i could get wood for a 17'' door jamb? or how could i do the doorway? i only want one door not the two door setup.

You would get (2) 1X10X 3/4 pieces of jamb material...this will give you approx. 18 1/2" of board width not including the space/gap that you will introduce in this assembly.

Brien
You lost me on the last sentence of your post.I look at the drawing in Rod's book and the Jamb goes straight across connecting the two frames as he stated that you dont loose much isolation from doing that.

Did i miss something? because you said something about the space i would be intoducing.

[xSpace]

If you have the skills you can make a board as wide as you want, but assuming that this is not something that anyone wants to approach from ground zero...you get the 1x material that is close to your span and install that as a jamb trim board, caulk the space that will exist since what you purchase from the lumber store will be less than the total span you are trying to seal.


You have a 17 inch span. The nearest 1X material that will make this bridge (X2) will be 1X10 (which is approx. 9 1/4 inch board X2 will be 18 1/2 inches)

My bad ...what space would you have with 18 1/2 inches of board, you are saying, bad math on me:)

Anyway...18 1/2 inches of board, rip them down each to 8 3/8 inch each will give you 16 and 3/4 inch total jamb with a gap of 1/4 inch to caulk.

Does that make more sense?

[Rivernile]

Oooohhh

Ok Brien, i understand now.

So what if i use the two 1X10 and make a kind of toungue and groove joint to join them and then glue that together then rip that down to 17''?

This way i dont have to deal with the caulking and the posibilities of missing a same space?

Could that work or just stick to your plan?

[Rivernile]

Brien
I thought about it ,it would be better with your way since i would not have that hard connection between the two assembly.

It would be sealed by the Flexing of the caulk correct?

Also in Rod's diagram is the rockwool has to go from top to bottom and also on the top overhead part?

Or is it only small pieces at the top and bottom?

[gullfo]

Just like all the other decoupling and caulking exercises - leave the gap, then use backing rod and and caulk to seal. This way you're avoiding any solid contact and still sealing it as desired. Worst case you periodically need to recaulk because small movement from the door opening and closing loosens it a bit (years).

[Rivernile]

Thanks Glenn

I have another question: what should i do with the two back corner traps? should i cut triangular pieces of rockwool and fill the entire space since i am putting slots on front?

Or should it be 703 accross the behind the slot and fabric leaving the air space behind?

[gullfo]

put a layer of 703 behind the cloth behind the slats and fill the remaining space (lightly) with pink (or other lightweight) insulation.

[Rivernile]

Glenn
I have some 1'' reclaimed rockwool can i use that to fill the rest of the space? or is it too dense for that purpose?

Also i was thinking of putting plywood along the top of the front wall and perforate the two side peices and leave the middle solid.

look at pics below

[gullfo]

you can use the rigid insulation if you have it but it may be cheaper to use the pink stuff for filling larger air spaces. if you're not soffit mounting, you can perforate the faces shown.

[Rivernile]

if you're not soffit mounting, you can perforate the faces shown.

So do i have to Seal(air tight) the space behind the Perforated ply ?
Because i was going to have some hangers or fill behind there with insulation.And remember it's open all the the way accross and down on the bottom where i made those openings for the sound to have acces to the hangers.

I guest in my case it would not be acting as a tuned broadband Perforated panel absorber?It would just be more so that the back of my speaker has somewhat of a absorbtive panel behind them right?

And also providing access to the hangers/insulation.

Thanks for the responses Guys.

[gullfo]

the perforation could be used as a Helmholtz resonator or simply as some additional absorption by leaving it open.

[Rivernile]

the perforation could be used as a Helmholtz resonator or simply as some additional absorption by leaving it open.

Thanks Glenn
I was hoping that would be your response since i did not want the extra work to seal off that space behind the perforated ply

One more thing though,i was going to use a piece of pegboard as the template for me to drill the holes into the 3/4'' ply.
Is that cool?

Or should the holes and distance be a little bigger and farther apart?

Also is there a way to change the title of this thread to River Nile Studio Build? I think fireblocking is

[Rivernile]

Here is what i have been up to these past few days.

Critiques wellcome

[gullfo]

you could use the peg board as a guide but skip holes so they are at least 3" apart. put tape over the holes you won't use. you could also get creative and create a design with the holes so it's not solely an even pattern as it's providing some porous membrane absorption. shoot for around 2% perforation.