knightfly wrote:Using a thin bead of glue around the inserts' perimeters AND screws into the OSB will work fine.
OK then. Settled. 8" spacing on screws into OSB, with glue along the edges for added protection.
To clarify: Specifically, I'll be applying a bead of adhesive on the
back of each strip, about an inch from the edge on the left and right sides.
I'm figuring on using
a Liquid Nails product that seems appropriate for use on drywall.
Please let me know right away if there is a specific product recommendation or, especially, if this is
not a good idea.
By the way, I had originally planned to put the strips up in two pieces, just so that they'd be easier to work with. Indeed, this will be necessary due to the "stringers" present in about half of the bays. I'm assuming now from the talk of stud spacing and such that I would be better off using
full height panels (which
is possible -- I'm getting 10' length boards) when possible. Please let me know if for some reason I should do two halves for each layer, regardless of the presence of a stringer.
You can't put screws much closer together though, you want to keep at least a couple inches between screw holes in the OSB for strength - with 4 layers, offsetting screws by 2" each layer you'd be limited to 4 layers. So each layer's schedule should not be closer than 8". The final layer being screwed to cleats should work fine, just be sure this doesn't cause any air gap between the last two layers.
Yes, 2" spacing layer-to-layer will be good.
Yes, there should not be an air gap -- that's why I'm doing three 1/2" panels because the sum thickness of them total the depth of the 1 1/2" cleats.
. . . your level of "overkill" should negate 99% of any ill effects [of the 16" stud spacing].
Cool.
I didn't want to risk making such a material change to the plans.
As it is now, I doubt you could get yourself in trouble with neighbors even after breaking a dozen pairs of sticks and splitting a couple of heads...
This is the assurance I love to read!!!
len-morgan wrote:you get the cheapest plywood or even 3/8" drywall and lay it up against the new walls (long edge down) to make kind of a super baseboard that would absorb the damage and then be tossed?
Len, you'll be pleased to know that my father-in-law told me the same thing this morning (before I had a chance to read your idea). Although Steve makes some great points about the advantages of doing demolition work first, my father-in-law was concerned about such things as tripping over J-bolts in the new slab. I didn't take that warning too seriously, but he "stuck to his guns" so to speak. And since he may be assisting me with the concrete demolition and he's
blind (really -- and he doesn't let
that get in his way of doing some pretty amazing things
), I think I'll take Len's advice and use some of my yet-unused OSB for that purpose.
A little while ago I received a call from AMS confirming delivery tomorrow. I told them to "assume a go" for 7 AM delivery unless they heard from me. My deadline for canceling the delivery is 4 PM (PDT) today. At this point I'm inclined to
go ahead with the delivery and work on beef this 4-day weekend as per the above fastening plan!
My sincere thanks to Steve, Len, and of course Dan, for their help in clearing the fuzz!
Huge Servings of Beef - Coming Right Up!!!
As to your suggestion about protecting the new work, that would help for SOME forms of "oopsies" - personally, since I own a full-size industrial backhoe, I tend to assume that ANYTHING can be destroyed if we TRY hard enough 
hence my advice to do ALL demo before putting things up we want to SAVE 
Steve
I'll probably need to buy more later, but at that price, I'd rather not stock up on that stuff.
If not, then I'll poke at it during the week while I await arrival of the Green Glue.