John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum Archive

(Blush) thanks! Just trying to do my part to populate the world with art!

well ... as unbelievable as it may seem ........

I'm STILL waiting for my door.
Did I leave anything comment out.
I'm being told this Friday. we shall hopefully see.

In da meantime ...

Fighting off the door depression blues ... I've been out shopping for other vital stuff.
I am officially ready to take up serious drinking

Thought I'd go for something easy, like the laminate flooring. Oh, I saw all kinds of
wonderful styles and colors. This is the type of flooring that basically comes in 6" x 36"
sheets [about 1/4" thick]. They are assembled together via sticky 'tape' edges.
I happened into a carpet store that also had the laminates, and SURPRISINGLY they
actually had a section with the material laid out on top of a concrete floor. HEY, I get my
first chance to actually walk on it. Coming off of the, expected, dense sound of the concrete
I proceeded onto the small section of laminate. To my dismay ... WHAT a difference in sound.
Footsteps were significantly LOUDER on this laminate covering I'm like clickin'
and clackin' as I walk with SNEAKERS on

All I can say is that I'm GLAD I happened in to actually test this. Definitely have to re-evaluate
the flooring.

Next I figure ... I'm gonna want a new desk in this room. Something straight forward &
simple in design ... and as OPEN as I can find. My thinking was to minimize putting a 'wall'
at the front near the monitors. Yeah, it be nice to have a center drawer too.
After hitting the OfficeMAX, Office Depot, various furniture stores & even some of the
unfinished shops ............. nothing Unless, of course, the idea of a glass top
desk would be so nice to maintain.
Online I found something close to what I'd like ... by some 'Herman' guy/designer ... and
he wants $1300 for 'his' simple, utilitarian desk. [man .... this is suckin'] ... I may have
to build the desk myself ... not sure I'd know how to do the drawer ... but geesh ....

I'm trying to maintain what little sense of humor I might've had ... so I won't even go into
the HVAC joys ......... but that too has got ta happen.

That's all the news that fit to print ...

Welcome to the team sport of MANY studio builders!
(Drinking can be a fun hobby... when performed in moderation.)

I went with stained and sealed concrete floors... and I'm not looking back with ANY regrets! (Other than by using a water based stain and sealer, they do require some sealer maintenance.)

It's SO nice not to have to worry about spills, scratches, potential re-sanding/sealing, etc...

If someone spills something, I just get a broom or a mop and it's taken care of.

But I would recommend staining with the commercial products that are NOT water based. There used to be a product called Steelcrete that I used in a bowling alley I worked at in my 20's. Now, some 30 plus years later, it has relatively the same finish as it did the day we put it down. I was amazed when I was back home last year and stopped to see a buddy who still works there. I asked if he had touched it up or recoated... nope.

Hi MadMax !

My current floor is concrete ... BUT ... there are several layers of paint on it

How bad the mess would be to try and remove the paint ... I could only imagine.

If I'm unable to find a type of floor covering [now looking at some of this fiber flooring
from Anderson, or Tarken (?) ], then my reasonable option might have to be re-painting
the floor. Definitely NOT the look I was going for ...

If paint ... I may need to consult with a pro painter that has a bit of artist to his work.
I don't know ....

Did a 'way to early morning' rehearsal today & tomorrow for 2 important gigs this weekend.
Were adding another SteelyDan track, and other tunes, to the setlist ... I like

Maybe my door tomorrow afternoon ...

Are there auditions and/or testing for a 'Team' position ...
just checking.

Epoxy paint, but you will have to strip the existing paint which isn't that big a deal...but if you strip it...why not stain it assuming you grind the concrete down to remove the veins of paint that may still exist?

xSpace wrote:Epoxy paint, but you will have to strip the existing paint which isn't that big a deal...but if you strip it...why not stain it assuming you grind the concrete down to remove the veins of paint that may still exist?

Having to consider ALL options ...

Please, let me ask regarding 'strip existing paint' ... are we talking a 'chemical' assault, or
are we basically looking at a some type of 'sander/ grinder' ???

The paint that is already on the floor consist of many layers. Not sure about the 1st layer,
as that may well be a battleship grey concrete paint. What I do know is there are several
coats of 'drylock' paint on top.

Other than in a few sections ... most of this paint had EVERY intention of staying

Sure be interested in hearing about a good way to strip this down to the bear concrete.

I DO understand the suggestions that a concrete floor is a good surface to have ... but I
would liked to have had a thin cover. Is there ANYTHING out there ... or am I just asking for
issues/ problems that negate the sole purpose of this build ... just to give a nice look
and NOT be walking directly on concrete

The guidance and advice is always welcomed & appreciated.
Thank-you.

I am intending to put Novilon (a kind of linoleum) on my concrete floor.
It looks exactly like wood parquet flooring. We had our hallway in our old apartment done in this and people were hardpressed to tell it was real parquet - they had to get down and touch it.
It's inherently footstep quiet, warm looking, and very easy to install, plus it's cheaper than parquet or laminate.

Being a new construction, I was told not to use any sealing type of product on the floor for at least a year - I don't want to wait that long.

I was just at a flooring store, and I think I saw the same type of product.

They called it something like 'FiberFloor'. The one from Armstrong is called 'Cushionstep'.
The other is called 'Wonderwood' by Flexitec.

Brought a few samples home. You are right about the look. I tested walking on a sample,
and it is MUCH quieter than the laminate flooring ... and it comes in so many different styles
that look real good.

Several options on installation. Can be glued ... or NOT. They cautioned about having
a chair with rollers ... might have to glue in 'that' area.

Anyway ... just looking for good options ... but at this moment, if there are NO acoustical
issues, then this may be the way I go. I would be nice to have something that takes the
edge off of walking directly on concrete.

bamboo can also be a nice finish. if you're looking to remove the paint - either chemical/cooking oil and scrape and power wash. or grinding - http://www.concretenetwork.com/sawtec/c ... basics.htm

Can it really be true .....

Quite the day, today ... First had to hit the optometrist to figure out what happened
to my eyeglass lenses. 2 circular, cloudy rings have been developing right in the center
of both lenses. What I found out ... first ... 4 year old lens are ... old Apparently
this hi-tech lenses, being incredibly thin [for my script], have a shorter lifespan than I
would have expected. It appears that the 'special' materials used in these lenses can start
to break down. Air borne chemicals 'may' be a factor. Well, for whatever reason, I had no
choice but to get a replacement ... this involved a complete eye exam We're
talkin' the full 'Monte' ... bright lights, the punch of air in each eye ... then the eye drops.
Within 15 min I couldn't see anything but a bright,cloudy film ... and yes, they had me
picking out new frames for a second pair of 'computer' glasses. Yes, these will be of
the bi-focal pursausion... my first venture into this visual adventure.

OK ... the better news ....... wait for it ....

Having been delayed since, before Easter, We got the call that the 'Door' has been created.
I know ... I was shocked too. So I went to the Mill to have a pre-deliver look ... and of
course pay the balance.

For the most part ... it fairly close to the instructions and design that I brought them ... but
NOT completely. AND, for reasons NOBODY knows ... the deadbolt tumbler and key was
nowhere to be found They also decided to mount the pressure roller latch at the TOP
of the door ... why, I haven't a clue

Given that ... they DID provide the SPLIT-Jamb, and DID include temporary supports to hold
both frames together that will be removed.

My choice of asking for any corrections or take the door that Carol Merrel was standing in
front of, was quickly reminded of the possibility of actually getting this door in this lifetime.
So ... took it as is.

Got some pics as it now sits in the garage ... The actual wood looks much nicer in person than the lighting in the garage allows.
In the last pix, you can clearly see the 1/4" spacing that will be used when mounted.
Tomorrow I should know what the install schedule will be. All I can say is that I look forward
to getting out of the 'funk' I've been in about getting this door on site. There is so much more
issue to solve ... and it can get overwhelming mentally ... I try not to think TOO far out,
while at the same time TRY to plan ahead ... its' a vicious cycle

Other matters of attention.

Having read some of the paint removing procedures, it looks like the corporate decision
will be to go in this direction. Here is a really horrible pic ... in ALL its' florescent light glory. These are just two samples of the material. Yes, they are NOT wood ... but a type of
fiber flooring, with a slight cushion-y feel. MOST important ... it DOESN'T sound like I'm
walking/ playing a floor marimba. 2nd benefit ... it can more easily be removed and
or replaced, and the price is quite reasonable. The difficult part is trying to find a COLOR
and pattern that WON'T make the room look too DARK. From what I've read, the LED lighting
is NOT winning the hearts & eyes, so I'm planning on a different science that will probably
involve a variac transformer for dimming purposes.

Anyway ... speaking of eyes ... mine are shot ... so I bide all a good nite and good builds
That concludes tonites ramblings .... for now.
Thanks!

nice door! i would go with the lighter color wood on the floor. keep some LED for mood lighting around the edges since you can get them in a variety of colors...

Progress report ...

I'm happy to report that a door now resides in what was once, 'open space' .... for a very
long time.

It all started when my ORIGINAL carpenter called to say that he could stop by to check
things out ... I know ... I was shocked too

Since it had been some 6-8 weeks since we last talked, we needed to review the construction
plan.

The door design by GLENN [a hybrid of the Super Door], is what we tried to implement. So
let us begin.

Framing needed to be added. Since we had the door delivered, we had the exact final
measurements. What I wanted to maintain was the ability for the door to swing a bit over
90*, and still allow a panel absorber to NOT hit the back corner wall, yet STILL have the door
as far down that side wall as possible due to room size limits, potential seating position,
and internal acoustic treatment. We basically settled on a good 10" spacing off the back
corner. So the new framing starts:
I do NOT have a complete set of pix of the initial build ... what we have is a 'split jamb'
consisting of approx 4" and 6" sections. We framed onto the plates a 2x4" and a 2x6" for
each section respectively. Behind them are several 2x4"s. At the top, we had to deal with 2 different wall/ceiling heights, so we had to even things
out with a 1x4 & a 2x4. Then, of course we were able to cut the 2 bottom plates. Prior to all this, we had added
floor isolated anchors to the plates at this opening to prevent any possible shifting. When
we DID cut the plates, I was surprised at how well the caulking under the plates had
adhered

The 2 jamb sections were then separated, and we slipped it into place. We had about a 1/4"
spacing to play with. What we needed to do was notch this frame to allow a 5/8"
protrusion under the MLBB to line up flush with the outer drywall. So markings were made,
the frame disassembled and notched. After the cuts, reassemble, and then put into place ... it was time to bring in the larger
section with the door.

I should mention ... my carpenter was still hurting [rotator cup injury], and I needed to
stay focused and help whenever I could. but PRIOR to these jambs going in, he had laid
out a level with some wedge sticks. He marked 'them' and the floor. When it came time to
put the 2nd jamb section in, the one side was placed on these wedges.
Again ... the section slipped into places nicely, and the level was dead on

Securing the jamb to the frame, we used 'SPAX Construction Screws'. Since we had no stops on the door we lined it up for a temporary one. A few various shots: The door opens great ! There is clearance from the floor that will allow for the fiber
flooring to go on without issue. The 'roller latch' holds the door closed much better than I
thought it would

Later I got to the details of sealing the new area ... started with backer rod around the
jamb [where I could] ... I post those later.

Big day with a MAJOR accomplishment ! My carpenter made it look so easy.

Progress continuation ...

Once the door was installed, it was time to address sealing the split-jamb, and any
additional issues.

The handle side of the jamb got a thin stuffing of backer rod ... I went around the entire jamb adding backer rod as required ... as yet, I didn't sink it to
final depth ... but that will happen before I caulk the jamb to the framing.

Next was to deal with the 'split' between the two frames.
I was unable to find a local supplier for any 1" rigid fiberglass, but the closest material
I found were these 2'x4' acoustic ceiling panels. They have this sort of plastic finish over the rigid fiberglass ... the plan was to peel this
plastic skin off ... With that idea working, I stacked 3 small pieces on the floor between the 2 bottom plates
on both sides. I then cut 1 strip that would slip between the 2x4 and 2x6 studs that the 'split' was exposed
to. The piece was about an 1-1/2", which brought it out to the edge of the studs. This
piece held in rather nicely. Then I cut several wider strips that I wanted to place flat
against this 'vertical' piece. It's hard to tell in the photo ... but the first piece is in there. I ended up with 3 layers done this way on the 2 sides and top.
Another view showing a staple added just for safe measure. Getting this rigid along the top of the jamb was the tougher part of the job. I could not do
the initial 'vertical' piece, but I ended up getting 3 layers across the inside top. The 4' strip
was able to extend past the two ends of the jamb, were I was able to fold it down along
the side and staple into place. No pics of this fun aspect ... the joys of playing with
fiberglass.

Side note ... the KNAUF rigid fiberglass is 1000 times easier to work with! After 2 showers,
I'm still feeling this yellow glass

OK ... with a fiberglass backing in place, I then pushed backer rod into the exposed section
of the 'split'. I need to decide what type of finish to do for the door and jamb. The wood is really nice,
and I would like to bring out the grain. Not sure if any coloring would be good ... but anyway,
the carpenter suggested lining the split edge with painters blue tape prior to caulking the
split. I'm considering a dark caulk for that ?!?

I also got in some stud blocking. Particularly on the hinge side of the door, I added 4 blocks
at the top, bottom and straddling the middle hinge. Just seem the right thing to do. Some of the blocks were short pieces. Couldn't really get a nail in there, so I had to resort
to the Liquid nail for the middle blocks [man is that some strong glue]

Today continued with more caulking, adding blocks to the outer wall, insulation for the
inside wall, and cutting drywall for the 1st layer in this door area.

Pix to follow ...

Hope I'm doing this right !

Thank-you

It all looks pretty good from here

Hi xSpace .... always ... Thanks for checking my efforts here !

Continuing around the door, I got the insulation in place. On the outer wall, added some blocking, caulking ... After backer rod & caulking all the seams ... add the 1st layer of 5/8" drywall. Following the, now, regular procedure I backer roded the perimeter gaps of the
floor and walls, caulked, and hit the seams with mud. Next up [hopefully today] ... get the 2nd layer of drywall WITH GreenGlue installed.