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Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2003 2:43 pm
by knightfly
Cool "slot absorbers", Ben - they should have a pretty wide response :=)
Seriously, as long as the bolts don't pass clear through the brick and into the inner wall, there should be no problems.
The sliders would need to be each mounted in its own wall, as you already know - the more air gap the better, but 8" to a foot would work.
Is that really all the lower the new building will be in relation to the existing one? It seemed like more in the actual picture... Steve
Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:17 pm
by Ben from Canberra
knightfly wrote:Is that really all the lower the new building will be in relation to the existing one? It seemed like more in the actual picture...
Yeah, you're right. That drawing is really just to get things together in my head. The next one I do will have more accurate measurements, or perhaps it's time now to call a draftperson to assist...?
Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2003 10:18 pm
by knightfly
Might wanna hold off on the draftsperson til John comments on the wall construction using brick veneer -
John, what about it - in the aussie brick veneer walls you have "tiebacks" between the brick and the framing, right? If so, any comments about the effect on TL caused by the hard connection between brick and inner framed wall?
Ben, the reason I'm asking all this is that we may need to change parts of the wall construction because of this - if so, you'd be jumping the gun with a draftsperson til we know for sure what type wall construction would work best for you... Steve
Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2003 10:32 am
by John Sayers
I'm not sure if they use tie backs - I'll check it out today, there's a new place going up down the road
cheers
john
Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2003 3:52 pm
by knightfly
Thanks John - Hey, found an attacthment by Senco that turns a regular screw gun into a "repeater" - works on Milwaukee, DeWalt and Makita (mine) About $50, sure beats $140 and up... Steve