Wall insulation proyect... advice is welcome!

How thick should my walls be, should I float my floors (and if so, how), why is two leaf mass-air-mass design important, etc.

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knightfly
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Post by knightfly »

Julián

For wall insulation, best results are with 2.5 to 4 PCF; to convert to kG/m^3, multiply by 16, so anywhere from 40kG to 64 kG will give the best results… Steve
Julián Fernández
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Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Post by Julián Fernández »

Thanks Guys! I have another question... I decided to build John´s Wall Units... ok now, how can i know which frecuencies to absorb? I mean, i understand how to use slat to absorb and reflect, but i don´t know which frecs. i´m supposing to avoid... (CR 2,4x2,9mts. * RR 2,9x4mts)
Can anyone help me?
Thanks!!!
knightfly
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Post by knightfly »

Julian, I've yet to see a floor plan - are these rooms completely rectangular, with fixed ceiling height, or otherwise? Steve
Julián Fernández
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Joined: Sat Oct 09, 2004 3:23 am
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Post by Julián Fernández »

Ops, sorry. Here it is. The ceiling raises from 8 to 11 feets (wood and roofing)...
knightfly
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Post by knightfly »

OK, are those measurements the INSIDE sizes, including ceiling height, between hard/solid surfaces? Steve
Julián Fernández
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Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Post by Julián Fernández »

Yeah, those are the inside sizes... i mean, it´s the sizes of the naked room... (just the walls)
knightfly
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Post by knightfly »

OK, Julian - your CR is small enough that I'd not use much (if any) in the way of TUNED treatments - better to use broadband traps in the corners (thick fiberglas or rockwool, no slats) and the same at first reflection points, like on both sides of the mix desk where you've shown them; then hard floor and a "cloud" suspended over the mix table, leaving the rest of the room bright (no absorption) til you can listen and test, adding maybe bit more absorber surface if it's too bright.

Your live room, if it has to have parallel walls, should have patches of absorbent alternating on opposite walls (so the patches are not directly across from each other) - these should be anywhere from 2x2 foot to the full size of a batt (2x4 foot) and 3 or 4 inches thick; spacing them away from the wall a few inches will also help in the low mid frequency range.

This (alternating wass/absorber) will treat flutter between the parallel walls, and tame the brightness a bit; it will also help some of the "boxiness" of the room from too much mid frequency. If this isn't plain, ask and I'll explain further.

I would start (in the live room) by only doing two of the four corner traps you show. You can always add more if it's not enough, but there is no sense building things you don't need. You'll need the alternating absorbers on walls to kill flutter, and those will also work to bring down reverb time. Both your rooms are small enough you won't really have a "reverb time" as such, you're just trying to get the frequency response of the room more even.

If your ceiling in the live room is also sloped like the CR, I wouldn't put anything on it until you've heard how it sounds in recordings.

Hope this helps... Steve
Julián Fernández
Posts: 128
Joined: Sat Oct 09, 2004 3:23 am
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Post by Julián Fernández »

Thanks KF! Something like that? I can angle the walls, because i have the brick walls, but the inside walls are undone, so i can shape them as i want...
After angling the walls on the live room, should i treat them with aborbers?
And, yes, the room is sloped too... maybe for stetics reasons i´ll add an gypsum ceiling, but i´m not sure...
Any other thing to keep on mind?
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