SIMO Studio - Construction Phase

[Kevstar]

Hi Simo, just had a skim around on the subject of skyline QRD/PRD, and a lot of people refer to this book.

Just a thought.

Kevin.

[simo]

Ro - Thanks man! Eagerly looking forward to your next update !

Kevstar - Great, thanks a lot for the link, very interesting indeed !!

[simo]

Hi everyone

just trying to gather info about installing the windows, as I'm "nearly" there (or at least preparing for it...).

I found the pic below browsing through the forum (along with lots of other - ofter conflicting - ways of doing it), so I was wondering if that is the correct way of doing it (if not could you explain it to me please?):

window installation.jpg

where the 1/4" EPDM rubber (or neoprene) strips are shown in black and the closed cell foam (3/8" and 1/2") in grey.

Also, I read that butyl tape should also be used under the glass for bedding it into the frame. Is that also true? If so, what thickness should I be looking for (I'll be using 15mm and 12mm laminated glass)?

I'm just trying to figure out what needs to be under/around/above the glass, in order to get all the dimensions right.

Thanks a lot in anticipation !

Ciao

Simo

[Ro]

Hai Simo,

I used the foam (grey) and sealant (kit) around the border of the glass (full gap fill).

Ro

[simo]

Thanks for you reply Ro,

… Just to make sure: Did you place the foam between the glass and the wood stops, AND under the glass too (or you didn't bother about that?)

and then seal all around, right?

[simo]

Sorry, just found my answer (I think ).

I'll go with:
a) 5-6mm rubber (neoprene) setting blocks under the glass
b) 3mm glazing tape between the glass and both the inner stop and the exterior trim
c) butyl caulk to seal the perimeter


Is this correct?

[Ro]

Sorry, just found my answer (I think ).

I'll go with:
a) 5-6mm rubber (neoprene) setting blocks under the glass
b) 3mm glazing tape between the glass and both the inner stop and the exterior trim
c) butyl caulk to seal the perimeter
Is this correct?

Is it correct? dunno, but it's exactly what I did
Sealed round the glass and on top of the glazing tape, against the glass.

[simo]

Hi everyone !

A few pics of the Live Room with all insulation in place:

IMG_1968.jpg

IMG_1973.jpg

Soffit for live room air con.
Both side will be filled with insulation (at the moment it's just one side, as I wanted to leave some space to make it a bit easier to install the unit...) :

IMG_1977.jpg

In the Control Room I went ahead by extending the air con soffit/panel up to the rear corner bass traps.
I filled it with insulation…in front of which I will try to install the skyline diffuser as proposed a few posts before:

IMG_2228.jpg

IMG_2253.jpg

IMG_2255.jpg

These are the last two clouds for the live room

IMG_2182.jpg

…well, in my sketch up design they looked fine in that configuration, but as soon as I test them for real in the room I didn't quite like the result with all those contrasting angles… it just didn't look right in my opinion….
so I decided to disassemble them

IMG_2184.jpg

and I recycled the wood to make one bigger angled centre cloud instead:
rear:

IMG_2219.jpg

front:

IMG_2220.jpg

and test mount them all together:
LR:

IMG_2323.jpg

CR:

IMG_2223.jpg

[simo]

Now, since that the front cloud in the CR has a quite steep angle, it leaves me with some space above it which I didn't want to waste…so I decided to use the last few pieces of scrap timber to make a superchunk in the corner between front wall and ceiling (as they say…never too much low / lo-mid freq absorption on small rooms...)

IMG_2359.jpg

and a quick test with the front cloud to check the result:

IMG_2319.jpg

As the chain and hooks were just in the middle of this new frame, I had to build a sort of tunnel for them in order to be able to unmount the cloud (if needed) without having to undo the superchunk.
Here's a pic to show what I did:
I filled the tunnel with insulation though (easily removable) just to avoid it to resonate or for the chain to jingle along with the music (probably a bit silly, but what the hell…it took me 2 minutes to do it anyway…)

IMG_2315.jpg

The question is:
I was planning to extend this front superchunk all the way until it reaches the side walls,
like so:

superchunk above cloud1.jpg

superchunk above cloud2.jpg

Do you think that doing so will somehow interfere with the speaker soffit effectiveness?
I kind of feel that it won't, but just wondering if you can see a reason for not doing that?

Ciao !
Simo

[simo]

Hello all!

So, I assume (hope) no answer to the front over-cloud superchunk question (on the previous post) means "all clear" then

…thus... I have a fresh little new question just for you

I'm using Genelec 1031A to be soffit mounted.
If you are not familiar with them, these are the switches on the back:

1031A Rear.jpg

So, considering that I will very likely couple them with a sub (I think the Genelec 7070A) would these adjustments be ok?

1031A Rear settings.jpg

(basically all flat, apart from the -4db switch on in the Bass Roll-Off section)



Also, I'm planning to use these sorbothane hemispheres

sorbothane hemisphere.png

under the speaker case (in addition to the 5mm sorbothane lining inside the case) as a further attempt to damp the mechanical vibrations transferring from the speaker to the soffit structure (as a total "floating mount").
What's do you guys think?


Thank you very much in anticipation for any input !


Ciao

Simo

[Soundman2020]

I would also set the bass tilt to either -4 or -6 (test which gives you flatter response: probably -6). That's necessary due to the soffit mount. Basically, it reverses the baffle step compensation built into the speaker circuitry, since you don't need it any more with a flush mounted speaker. The soffit automatically corrects the power imbalance, naturally, so you don't also need the circuit that does the same thing.

You may or may not need the bass roll-off, depending on how you connect the sub. If the sub does bass management itself, then you probably do not need the bass roll-off on the mains.

- Stuart -

[simo]

Thanks a lot for your quick response Stuart.

Cool, that does make sense.
I will set the Bass Tilt @ -6 then, and leave the Roll-Off flat, as according to the following pic, the bass management is in the Sub itself, as you predicted !

Genelec 7070A.jpg

Simo

[Ro]

Hai Simo,

I'm assuming you're asking because you wanna set the levels before inserting the speakers in the wall. It's not easy to re-adjust at that moment. Another option would be to dismantle the back of the monitor and bring the controls to the front, including the amp (if the mon is active). That way you'll only mount the speakers (not the whole box) and keep the amp and controls within arms reach. It also solves your heat problem.

just a thought.

[simo]

Hey Stuart

…just to clarify... I understand what you are saying about the Bass Tilt, But IF I will not have the sub as part of my monitoring system (budget ), shall I still leave the Roll-Off flat anyway?

[simo]

Hi Ro,

yes, that would be a much better setting indeed, which I would prefer... the problem is that I can't find anywhere the amp rack mounting kit for the 1031A amp… I know Genelec do (or used to do) the amp kit for the 1032, but I'm not sure if there is one for my 1031? (actually I just sent an email to Genelec this morning about that)

this is the one for the 1032 (which I doubt there is one available for the smaller 1031A)...or do you know where I can find it?

amp rack mounting kit_1.jpg

amp rack mounting kit_2.jpg