John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum Archive

Hello GUY's

Its been a while but i have been side tracked by a few small projects but i have some finished pics to post in a few.

Glenn ,the room sounds amazing what i hear in room translate pretty dam good outside world.
i know the last time i posted i was trying to set up rew,but i just came accros a very helpfull video to
follow so i will post new pics and measure curves soon.

I have somewhat of a weak link in my isolation system which i have narrowed down to the garage on the other side of control room.See that wall only has 1/2'' gypboard and even though i beefed it up with 5/8'' gyp, i still get a slight sound from when there is a huge noise in garage which is my outer shell.
Funny thing is though i could be blasting the music in the studio and not hear a peep if i stand in the garage,so i know its weaker when sound travels from the other side which is from in the garage.But its small nothing to write home about,ill just maybe this summer add a layer or two of 5/8'' on that whole wall in the garage.

I have one last project i would love to build ,but i read on here and you guys don't recomend a DIFFUSOR on the rear wall in small rooms.

However i have a space in the rear of room where i want to build a QRD out of plexiglass so i could still get sunlight in.
RPG Makes them and my friend in NY has them in her studio and i am gealous

The space is 32 3/4'' by 58 3/4'' and i would like to get a cut sheet for the peices to asemble a QRD to fit it.

Any whooo i will be posting pics soon.

Thanks to everyone who helped ,Especially :Glenn ,Soundman 20/20 ,Xspace, and Mr Gervais.

And ofcourse Mr Sayer.

Well, you know the rule around here: "Pics or it didn't happen!".

i read on here and you guys don't recomend a DIFFUSOR on the rear wall in small rooms.

Depends on several factors, but one of the issues is the lowest frequency that the diffuser is tuned to, and the distance between the device and your ears. The bare minimum is 3 full wavelengths of the lowest frequency from diffuser to head, but best is 7 or more wavelengths. (Don't forget that QRDs actually still affect frequencies one full octave below the lowest tuned frequency.) The issue is "lobing", or uneven spread of the reflected energy in both space and time. It takes a few wavelengths for that unevenness to smooth out a bit. You don't want your ears to be in lobes that are coloring the sound in one way or another. That's the main reason for the recommendation of not using QRDs in small rooms. Or if you do use them, then tune them so the lowest frequency they affect works out to more than 7 wavelengths from your head. (Of course, in small rooms that means that you have to tune them pretty high, which isn't very helpful...)

Can't wait to see the photos! And the REW graphs!


- Stuart -

Soundman2020 wrote:Well, you know the rule around here: "Pics or it didn't happen!".

[quote
Can't wait to see the photos! And the REW graphs!


- Stuart -

LOL yeah i know ,i will post pics soon i promise.

Soundman2020 wrote:Well, you know the rule around here: "Pics or it didn't happen!".

[quote
Can't wait to see the photos! And the REW graphs!


- Stuart -

LOL yeah i know ,i will post pics soon i promise.

on the window you could make transparent slat panels (from 3/8" polycarbonate) like you did your wall units and angle them. we're doing that for a control room where the side angled treatments would block a window. congrats on the room!

gullfo wrote:on the window you could make transparent slat panels (from 3/8" polycarbonate) like you did your wall units and angle them. we're doing that for a control room where the side angled treatments would block a window. congrats on the room!

Thanks Glenn, when you say angle it how are you talking?Its the window in th back of the room.

Do you have a crude drawing to show? and the place i get the glexiglass from said they could sit it for like $0.10 a cut,should i do some micro slots?
or should i do exactly like my slot wall sizes?

Thanks

Bump

rod gervais wrote:the use of rockwool is good - but don't over-pack it or it will create a flanking path between the 2 walls.....

As far as the foam goes it is not approved for joints larger than 1/2"....... your joint is (apparently) larger than that regardless of the backer (for example - it is not approved for joint larger than 1/2" even if they have backer rod installed.

It is not a matter of backing - but rather a matter of how long it last in the presence of flame......

It would actually expand and fill up a joint larger than 1/2" - but it would fail under fire conditions with joints that large.

Use the rockwool and caulk either the underside or top side (whichever you can get to easier) with a commercial fire caulk...... that is an approved firestop.

The fire caulk handles hot gas and the rockwool handles the flame.

OR - at the top of the wall pad it out with drywall to shrink the joint to just 1/2".... then you can use the foam....

Either/or will work.

Rod

I would have thought that the Great Stuff fireblock foam would create a flanking path between the inner and outer leaves when used to span the gap as a gas seal? Is this not the case? I'm not aware of the specific acoustic properties of this product but it sure would be easier and cheaper to use over firestop caulk. So it would be great if it didn't couple the two leaves together. I'm very curious to find out more.