My first project--Your advice and input needed!

How thick should my walls be, should I float my floors (and if so, how), why is two leaf mass-air-mass design important, etc.

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dickyd
Posts: 11
Joined: Mon Dec 20, 2004 3:04 am
Location: Upstate New York, USA

Post by dickyd »

Close, except there's no stud support for the SW end of the pegboard...

Duh, let's try that again. Is the caulk used properly in the SW corner?

My Roxul supplier doesn't stock the thinner (i.e. 1 or 2") stuff and says that it would take 6 weeks to get it. How much of a disadvantage would it be for me to use a 'full filled' wall absorber?

Could I use sheetrock screws driven through the innermost layer of gypsum with their pointed ends exposed as impaling clips?

Thanks Steve!
knightfly
Senior Member
Posts: 6976
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
Location: West Coast, USA

Post by knightfly »

The caulk between the (added) pegboard support stud and the double gyp is unnecessary; caulking the perimeter gypsum (the horizontal green part) is all you need there.

The thicker the absorbent, the broader band/lower Q the helmholtz action - in this case, it would probably be better than partial fill because it would be less likely to cause peaky response.

I don't think sheetrock screws would hold well enough in the gypsum to stay put, nor would they be long enough; what MIGHT work would be flathead deck screws; they can be had 3" long, and if you had the second layer of gyp installed BEFORE attempting to impale the insulation they should stay put. You would want them closer together than recommended for the standard impaling clips because of less support; maybe something like 10" centers each direction. Be sure to sink them snugly and mud over before the next layer... Steve
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