John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum Archive

Woohoo! Back in business! That's great news.

You know, when I look at your video, there's not a huge lot you still need to do! This could actually go quite fast (well, relatively speaking...)

- Stuart -

Today I officially spent a few hours actually working on the project. (As opposed to taking pictures or pulling a permit)

Back on Page 93, you'll notice I intalled my HRV, but the inspector didn't like that it was suspended with chains (which the manufacturer called for in the installation instructions), so I secured it to the platform using aluminum straps normally used for suspending ducting. It didn't take long for those straps to stretch or loosen up, so today I replaced two of them with buckle bolts and chains so now it's nice and tight. I had planned to replace all four straps with the buckle bolt chain combos, but after just doing the front two, it's very sturdy. I left the other two in the tray just in case the inspector orders me to do the same to the rear ones (which are a lot harder to get to and work on).

Here is a short video that I shot of the HRV with the door is removed. I said in the video that I would provide a link to the exact product, but it has apparently been discontinued, so here's some general information about them.

I just scheduled an inspection for Monday, and hopefully I will get framing, rough electrical, and mechanical (mini split and HRV) signed off, after which I can begin stuffing insulation.

I passed the inspection.

What's kind of weird is that there were a couple of items that I was advised about tweaking which would need to be done before final inspection, some of which will be concealed and unprovable. Also, out of an abundance of caution I guess, the inspector said I should consult a certified electrician to ensure I don't need to move my outlets up to 4 feet above floor since it is "currently" garage space. I argued it won't be garage space after the build is complete and as such would not be subject to the special rules applicable to outlets in garages. We settled on it maybe being a good idea for me to consult an inspector at the building permit counter to verify this point before finishing things. I guess I will do that just to get that answer on record in case there is an issue attempted to be made of it on final inspection day.

Just a couple of hours' worth of tweaking, and then I should be on my way with finally stuffing insulation into these walls!

--Keith

Awesome news!! This thread has been a big reference in regards to my garage conversion. Can't wait to see it progress man.

I wired up all the outlets and switches over the weekend. After throwing the breakers, one of them sparked and tripped, so I definitely have a short circuit. I was looking forward to troubleshooting that this week, but I suffered a major episode of what the doctor diagnosed as lumbar disc syndrome that has kept me home from work for three days. It's really bad, worst lower back pain that I have ever had. It has had me laid up ever since. Hopefully I'll be back at it soon.

but I suffered a major episode of what the doctor diagnosed as lumbar disc syndrome that has kept me home from work for three days.

Man, that sucks! And just when you were getting back into the swing of things. I've had some lower back pain, but nothing as bad as what you describe. I sure hope you get up and about again fast.

- Stuart -

Yeah, I relied on an oldsters walker for a couple of days there.

I'm recovered from my nasty back pain episode and getting ready to resume work on the project.

I visited the building department last week to verify my understanding of next steps. I was advised to go ahead and install mynOSB and drywall on the outer leaf studs in the garage now and then proceed with all of the insulation stuffing. I need to be sure to get an inspection before installing OSB and drywall on the inner leaf so that the insulation can be inspected and signed off since the outer leaf wall in the garage is a firewall. That frankly will make the task of insulation stuffing a little easier since there will be a surface on the outer leaf to press against and the insulation won't fall out the other side. I may be hanging that outer leaf door a lot sooner than I had planned.

Today my friend and I loaded up his new Ford Raptor with 22 sheets of ⅝" Type X drywall and 7 sheets of 7/16" OSB.
It's stacked on the front porch, ready for me to pull and cut and attach to the studs.
After looking at unfinished studs for a dozen years, I am looking forward to covering them as it will most definitely be a sign of progress that will build momentum!

YOU’RE BACK!!!!

I’d been wondering about you good sir. It’s been a while and yet somehow it seems like only yesterday. I was just looking back through my thread yesterday, preparing myself my own new build which is about to kick in to full force tomorrow (builders arrive 7am), and was commenting to myself how many dear helpers were around for the last build - yourself especially. I was so excited to login again today and notice your thread is rekindled and the project is back on. I have a lot of reading to catch up on! I hope you are doing well and I look forward to seeing more of you!

All the best,

Andy (Rotten Basement guy with the Asbestos that you saved me from - remember?)

It ain't much but my friend Jason and I tackled most of the outer leaf OSB today. I'm fighting a cold, so I was not the best and most productive worker today, but I did my best.

We are leaving the wall that will contain the outer door unfaced for now because I want to get the door installed first. That way, all of the wall materials can butt up flush with the door frame.

It is kind of trippy not being able to see through the walls anymore. I hope I can continue the momentum.

(Not sure why the photos are rotated 90°.)

Speaking of doors, I need to make a decision whether or not to stick with my original spec of a 36" wide door or go with 32". My original thought was 36" to support ease of load in and load out, but now my vehicle is quite a bit longer than I used to drive (I had always driven small sporty coupes but now I drive a slick sporty midsize wagon). The wider door will swing farther into the garage and I'm concerned about it interfering with the front bumper of my vehicle. I could pretty easily add lumber to the doorway to narrow the opening to a width that will support the smaller door, plus both doors will be less expensive. I think 32" should do the trick, right?

Also, I plan to use a solid core fire rated door (it has to be fire rated as it connects to the garage) and then add a layer or plywood or MDF to each side of each door with Green Glue on the back. I will have to cut the piece smaller than the door so it will fit between the door jamb and I will probably add a jamb to the jamb with a good seal all around

The doors are a weak spot in the design which is one of the reasons the gap between the doors is larger.

So you've figured out how much mass you need to add to your solid core door to match that of your walls which is OSB + 3 layers of 5/8" Sounds like you need some crazy heavy doors!

Greg

Yes, which means my door frame should be thicker than the typical ⅝". I'm thinking 1¼". Also, four or even five hinges may be in order. It also needs to self-close as is building code for a door leading from garage to living space.

Quote for two doors from ETO Doors out of Los Angeles is about $1,500 including freight, pre-hung with four hinges and all other stuff to my specs. That doesn't count the extra plywood and Green Glue I will be adding. I'm looking for a local option so I can save on the freight.

Here's the specific door that I'm considering.