John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum Archive

could you just add the drywall/MDF on the plywood faces in between so you don't have to re-order your glass? the insulation itself won't do much for isolation per se.

Glenn,
Sorry i was out of town for a couple days.
So can i just put another layer of MDF with green glue around the window.

Or do i have to use drywall? I dont mind ordering the glass a little smaller.

i think the MDF should suffice.

Thanks Glenn,

I'll use some green glue between as a extra step.

Where do i get the trunk rubber for the doors?,i saw a link on here but someone said something about the item number is wrong.
they said they had to order type ''L'' toget type "K" etc.

Is there another source?

Also does anyone know where i could get a min panel cut? i saw there is a template that Lou posted,what kind of machine they use for that.

I want to make 24 mic inputs and headphones etc.

that source provided seems to be a good one. just pick the right rubber based on the image.

Glenn,

so i did what you said about putting the sheetrock around the ply at the window and i also slaped some green glue on there also.

But now i am reordering the glass and i want to know what type of glass should i get.

I read that it should be laminated,but the price is a bit much more i was wondering what you think about regular plate/float glass.

how much am i lossing by not going with laminated?

Give me pros and cons so i can see if i just need to bite the bullet

laminated if nice but the float glass will work. laminated has some damping built in and it also is safer. you can make you own laminated glass by using self sticking clear plastic sandwiched but you run the risk of bubbles and sometimes some "fogginess".

gullfo wrote: but the float glass will work. ".

Thats all i wanted to hear.

Glenn thanks a milli again for the support.

So float glass is the same as that plate glass? because the glass place keep refering to the glass as plate glass.

Just double checking that its the regular glass that i am asking for

Picture time ....

As long as it's not tempered - plate float etc are readily comparable but go with the plate glass to simplify. Tempered if nicked or cracked slightly will shatter.

Cooooool.

Thanks a lot man.
So i am getting 1/2'' thick for studio side and 3/8'' thick for the live room side, is that good enough?

And what about the window in the back of room looking outside? what thickness you think i should get?

ideally 1/2" and 5/8" would be better but since you indicated the maximum thickness available was 1/2" go with the 3/8" and see if that works. on the back window, 1/2" if possible.

Hey Glenn,
I am getting a lot of sound comming thru the door and i ca hear a lot of sond when i put my ears on the live room glass.

Do you think A) a peice of MDF on the door with green glue and the seals around it will take care of that?

B) I did not backer rod and caulk between the door jamb as yet you think thats where i am getting a lot of leakage?

I know i still have a few things to do before i start worrying about this but i just had to ask.



More Work on windows

i think you may need that heavier glass... plus you definitely need to seal up the door. adding more mass too it is generally a good idea if you only have the single door but gotta get the door sealed. as you improve isolation on walls etc the weak parts become much more apparent - the doors, windows, floor flanking...

Could someone please post a link for the right type of rubber to get for the door seal?

There seam to be a lot of mis info out there and i want to be sure.

I looked on JC Whitney's site and when i type in ''Type K '' RUBBER A COUPLE OF THINGS CAME UP .

Please if someone could pass on some info .