Need help with vocal booth/ room dimensions

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Soundman2020
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Re: Need help with vocal booth/ room dimensions

Post by Soundman2020 »

I will have to buy much longer speaker wires in order to do this, was trying to avoid having to do that, but after seeing the graph and response I think I'll run to the store and try it out!
The HS8 is an active speaker: built-in amplifiers. So there's no problems with having long cables to get to the speakers. There won't be any losses in quality due to the extra length. Assuming you are using balanced cables, of course! You could make them 300 feet long, and still not have any issues.
1) I believe the user manual for the Yamaha HS8 are reccomends the monitors be placed 4-5 ft away from the front wall. I believe they are rear ported and have a switch to compensate some if the monitors are being placed closer to the front wall. Should I ignore the manufacturer recommendation and move them close to the front wall anyways? If I do this, should I use the switch in the back to account for this?
Keeping them away from the front wall is fine, .... IF you have a room that is large enough! But 4-5 feet is not enough. Here's a chart that shows the problematic distances in red, the not-so-good distances in blue, and the best distances in green:
neumann_loudspeaker_boundary_location_v02-SBIR-TABLE-wall-bounce-distance.jpg
The chart is published by Neumann, but it applies to all speakers, made by all manufacturers. It's a physical problem that affects everything the same, not specific to any manufacturer.

As you can see, the worst distance is about 4 to 5 feet! That's in the middle of the red range, as it produces SBIR dips in the range of 65 Hz to 45 Hz... :) To get to a sort-of OK position, it needs to be at least 7 feet form the front wall, which is not possible in a small room, and it only gets to be "good" beyond about 10 feet.

On the other hand, if you put it right up against the front wall (less than 16 inches), then that's "good" too.

So I'm not sure why the manual for your speaker says 4-5 feet: that doesn't make much sense, and you can see the exact problem in your own results.

Set then up against the front wall, with just a 4" gap where you can insert a 4" panel of good absorption, such as OC-703 between the speaker and the wall.
they are rear ported and have a switch to compensate some if the monitors are being placed closer to the front wall.
Rear-porting is not a problem. You can place your speaker close to the wall if you need to. In fact, the manual says this as well: "In situations where it is not possible to position the speakers a sufficient distance from walls or corners, the ROOM CONTROL switch can be used compensate for excessive bass. As you move the speaker closer to walls or corners, a higher compensation setting may be required to achieve natural sounding response ...". So there's no problem with that: it won't damage your speaker if you put it close to the front wall, with the rear corner of the speaker just 4" away from the wall.
2) Does it matter if one cable is say 50ft long and the other monitor cable is only 10ft long? Will this cause any delays, damage the stereo image, loss of quality or any other negative effects?
No problem at all. The propagation of electric signals in copper wire is very nearly as fast as the speed of light, around 300 million meters per second, so unless one cable is a few million meters longer than the other, there won't be any difference at all in arrival of the signals. You would get a much, MUCH larger difference just by moving one speaker one millimeter closer than the other. So, no: there won't be any difference at all. The two channels will sound exactly the same, no loss of quality, no delays, no phase shift, no imaging issues, nothing.

however, I have the monitor height at 47" from center of tweeter to the floor. I couldnt find any information on where the acoustical axis is, and the manual suggested having the tweeter lined up with your ear. Is this ok or is there a known acoustical axis point for yamaha hs8 that I should use instad, or should I use the midpoint between the woofer and tweeter as the acoustical axis? The acoustic axis is going to be on the imaginary line that joins the center of the woofer to the center of the tweeter, and much closer to the tweeter, which is a bit below where you estimated. So you could probably raise your speaker a bit. In fact, for most speakers and rooms, you can go a bit higher than 47", and that can be beneficial... as long as you don't go too high! Maybe an inch, or maximum 2 inches. The reason why that is good is because it reduces reflections from the surface of your desk or console. The reason why you can't go too high, is because you would put your head too far off-axis from the speaker.
if I know where the dip is in the low frequency, could i use some room acoustic software to correct that?
Nope! Unfortunately not. The frequency is so low that any treatment would have to be huge. If you follow the theory that a porous absorber is effective at frequencies where the thickness of the absorber is 7% of the wavelength, and your frequency is 46 Hz, then your wavelength is over 24 feet! 295 inches, in fact. 7% of that is 21 inches. so you would need an absorber 21" thick on the front wall :shock: Even then, it would not be very effective, since porous absorbers just don't do very well at such low frequencies...
Is there a way to have the software add it back in?
Nope! That doesn't work either, because this is a phase cancellation problem: the wave going towards the wall bounces back, and cancels itself out. So if you try to EQ that, and boost the frequency that is missing, all you do is get a BIGGER cancellation! You make the dip even deeper. But since you can't actually destroy energy, all the extra power that you are pumping in with your EQ boost has to go somewhere, and normally it just ends up causing instability around that frequency, so you end up with a very long ringing tone at an adjacent frequency (something like "feedback").

That's what I meant when I said it was "impossible or extremely hard" to treat such a problem. The frequency is just too low, and it is a phase cancellation problem, so it cannot be equalized.

Sorry! :)
I plan filling all 4 corners with roxul safe n sound asap.
That's a good start, but there are 12 corners in a room, not just 4.... :) 8)
I had my meter set to "C", "Slow", but I had a level of 80db. Is "86" a typo, or should I run the next test at 86 db?
You set the INDIVIDUAL speakers to 80 dBC for each one, but then when both are playing back the same sound together, the total will be 86 dB. Because twice the power is the same as an increase of 6 dB, and with both speakers on, the total is twice the power. That assumes that your speakers are playing in phase, of course, and that it is the exact same sound going out through both (in other words "coherent sound"). If the sound is not coherent, then the increase in level will be less: probably around 3 dB. So this is a good test to make sure your speakers and sound system is performing fine: test each speaker by itself at 80 dB with the other one turned off, then put them both on and you should see 86 dB. If you don't get 86 dB, then there's something wrong...
Im anxious to get up and running and am hoping I can at least get the baseline and monitor position established asap
Finding the best location for your speakers and mix position can take a long time! I'm just giving you the basics here: the starting point. Set them up against the front wall with 4" of absorption behind them, set up your chair at about 1/3 of the distance from the front wall to the back (anywhere in the range 30% to 40% is a good starting point), aim the speakers at a spot about 16" behind your head, then do multiple REW tests with the mic and speakers in slightly different positions to see if there's a better location. Move one thing at a time, in small increments, then keep the best location for that "thing". Then move another thing in small increments, to optimize that one. Then something else. Then go back to the first thing. For example, first try moving the mic forward and backward in steps of a couple of inches, to see if there's a good improvement overall. Then try moving the speakers further apart or closer together (also in small steps of a couple of inches). Then try moving the speakers up or down a little (in very small steps: half an inch or so). Then when you have all three of those done, go back to the mic position, because there might be an even better place now... etc.

Optimizing this can take a long time... and then when you have your treatment in, you can do it all over again, since the best location will probably now be somewhere else! :)

As the saying goes, Rome wasn't built in a day.... and your speaker / mix position layout can't be done in a day either! :)


- Stuart -

It's a slow process.
flyguyz
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Re: Need help with vocal booth/ room dimensions

Post by flyguyz »

Soundman2020 wrote:
I will have to buy much longer speaker wires in order to do this, was trying to avoid having to do that, but after seeing the graph and response I think I'll run to the store and try it out!
The HS8 is an active speaker: built-in amplifiers. So there's no problems with having long cables to get to the speakers. There won't be any losses in quality due to the extra length. Assuming you are using balanced cables, of course! You could make them 300 feet long, and still not have any issues.
Thanks for the reassurance, I will buy some longer cables and try testing with the speakers closer to the wall as you suggest!
1) I believe the user manual for the Yamaha HS8 are reccomends the monitors be placed 4-5 ft away from the front wall. I believe they are rear ported and have a switch to compensate some if the monitors are being placed closer to the front wall. Should I ignore the manufacturer recommendation and move them close to the front wall anyways? If I do this, should I use the switch in the back to account for this?
Keeping them away from the front wall is fine, .... IF you have a room that is large enough! But 4-5 feet is not enough. Here's a chart that shows the problematic distances in red, the not-so-good distances in blue, and the best distances in green:
neumann_loudspeaker_boundary_location_v02-SBIR-TABLE-wall-bounce-distance.jpg
The chart is published by Neumann, but it applies to all speakers, made by all manufacturers. It's a physical problem that affects everything the same, not specific to any manufacturer.

As you can see, the worst distance is about 4 to 5 feet! That's in the middle of the red range, as it produces SBIR dips in the range of 65 Hz to 45 Hz... :) To get to a sort-of OK position, it needs to be at least 7 feet form the front wall, which is not possible in a small room, and it only gets to be "good" beyond about 10 feet.

On the other hand, if you put it right up against the front wall (less than 16 inches), then that's "good" too.

So I'm not sure why the manual for your speaker says 4-5 feet: that doesn't make much sense, and you can see the exact problem in your own results.

Set then up against the front wall, with just a 4" gap where you can insert a 4" panel of good absorption, such as OC-703 between the speaker and the wall.
Thanks for the explanation. I will try this out! Does it matter what angle I have the speakers pointing back towards me? OR should I test multiple positions between the superchunk and door? (making sure the distance from me to each speaker is equal of course)
they are rear ported and have a switch to compensate some if the monitors are being placed closer to the front wall.
Rear-porting is not a problem. You can place your speaker close to the wall if you need to. In fact, the manual says this as well: "In situations where it is not possible to position the speakers a sufficient distance from walls or corners, the ROOM CONTROL switch can be used compensate for excessive bass. As you move the speaker closer to walls or corners, a higher compensation setting may be required to achieve natural sounding response ...". So there's no problem with that: it won't damage your speaker if you put it close to the front wall, with the rear corner of the speaker just 4" away from the wall.
2) Does it matter if one cable is say 50ft long and the other monitor cable is only 10ft long? Will this cause any delays, damage the stereo image, loss of quality or any other negative effects?
No problem at all. The propagation of electric signals in copper wire is very nearly as fast as the speed of light, around 300 million meters per second, so unless one cable is a few million meters longer than the other, there won't be any difference at all in arrival of the signals. You would get a much, MUCH larger difference just by moving one speaker one millimeter closer than the other. So, no: there won't be any difference at all. The two channels will sound exactly the same, no loss of quality, no delays, no phase shift, no imaging issues, nothing.
Awesome, thanks!
however, I have the monitor height at 47" from center of tweeter to the floor. I couldnt find any information on where the acoustical axis is, and the manual suggested having the tweeter lined up with your ear. Is this ok or is there a known acoustical axis point for yamaha hs8 that I should use instad, or should I use the midpoint between the woofer and tweeter as the acoustical axis? The acoustic axis is going to be on the imaginary line that joins the center of the woofer to the center of the tweeter, and much closer to the tweeter, which is a bit below where you estimated. So you could probably raise your speaker a bit. In fact, for most speakers and rooms, you can go a bit higher than 47", and that can be beneficial... as long as you don't go too high! Maybe an inch, or maximum 2 inches. The reason why that is good is because it reduces reflections from the surface of your desk or console. The reason why you can't go too high, is because you would put your head too far off-axis from the speaker.
THanks, ill try moving them up an inch amd then two inches and see what the results yield!
if I know where the dip is in the low frequency, could i use some room acoustic software to correct that?
Nope! Unfortunately not. The frequency is so low that any treatment would have to be huge. If you follow the theory that a porous absorber is effective at frequencies where the thickness of the absorber is 7% of the wavelength, and your frequency is 46 Hz, then your wavelength is over 24 feet! 295 inches, in fact. 7% of that is 21 inches. so you would need an absorber 21" thick on the front wall :shock: Even then, it would not be very effective, since porous absorbers just don't do very well at such low frequencies...
Is there a way to have the software add it back in?
Nope! That doesn't work either, because this is a phase cancellation problem: the wave going towards the wall bounces back, and cancels itself out. So if you try to EQ that, and boost the frequency that is missing, all you do is get a BIGGER cancellation! You make the dip even deeper. But since you can't actually destroy energy, all the extra power that you are pumping in with your EQ boost has to go somewhere, and normally it just ends up causing instability around that frequency, so you end up with a very long ringing tone at an adjacent frequency (something like "feedback").

That's what I meant when I said it was "impossible or extremely hard" to treat such a problem. The frequency is just too low, and it is a phase cancellation problem, so it cannot be equalized.

Sorry! :)

This is good to know! Thanks for the explanation.
I plan filling all 4 corners with roxul safe n sound asap.
That's a good start, but there are 12 corners in a room, not just 4.... :) 8)

True, but this will be my next step of action, how do I determine form the test results if I am sucking to much of the mids/highs out of the room. I obviously dont want to have a dead sounding space after adding more absorption to the room
I had my meter set to "C", "Slow", but I had a level of 80db. Is "86" a typo, or should I run the next test at 86 db?
You set the INDIVIDUAL speakers to 80 dBC for each one, but then when both are playing back the same sound together, the total will be 86 dB. Because twice the power is the same as an increase of 6 dB, and with both speakers on, the total is twice the power. That assumes that your speakers are playing in phase, of course, and that it is the exact same sound going out through both (in other words "coherent sound"). If the sound is not coherent, then the increase in level will be less: probably around 3 dB. So this is a good test to make sure your speakers and sound system is performing fine: test each speaker by itself at 80 dB with the other one turned off, then put them both on and you should see 86 dB. If you don't get 86 dB, then there's something wrong...

Thanks, I will confirm this next test
Im anxious to get up and running and am hoping I can at least get the baseline and monitor position established asap
Finding the best location for your speakers and mix position can take a long time! I'm just giving you the basics here: the starting point. Set them up against the front wall with 4" of absorption behind them, set up your chair at about 1/3 of the distance from the front wall to the back (anywhere in the range 30% to 40% is a good starting point), aim the speakers at a spot about 16" behind your head, then do multiple REW tests with the mic and speakers in slightly different positions to see if there's a better location. Move one thing at a time, in small increments, then keep the best location for that "thing". Then move another thing in small increments, to optimize that one. Then something else. Then go back to the first thing. For example, first try moving the mic forward and backward in steps of a couple of inches, to see if there's a good improvement overall. Then try moving the speakers further apart or closer together (also in small steps of a couple of inches). Then try moving the speakers up or down a little (in very small steps: half an inch or so). Then when you have all three of those done, go back to the mic position, because there might be an even better place now... etc.

Optimizing this can take a long time... and then when you have your treatment in, you can do it all over again, since the best location will probably now be somewhere else! :)

As the saying goes, Rome wasn't built in a day.... and your speaker / mix position layout can't be done in a day either! :)

But im soooo close! :cry:
- Stuart -

It's a slow process.
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Re: Need help with vocal booth/ room dimensions

Post by Soundman2020 »

Does it matter what angle I have the speakers pointing back towards me? OR should I test multiple positions between the superchunk and door? (making sure the distance from me to each speaker is equal of course)
The speakers should always be angled to point at a spot about 16 to 24" behind your head. 18" is a good choice. Set up a mic stand or something else vertical at that location, and aim both speakers at that.
THanks, ill try moving them up an inch amd then two inches and see what the results yield!
Do REW tests, and also real listening tests, using the same music every time. Music that you already know very well.
how do I determine form the test results if I am sucking to much of the mids/highs out of the room.
You can see it in REW (as well as hearing it) on the RT60 graphs. There's an ideal decay time for every room, based on the volume of the room (dimensions): Calculate that for your room, then check in REW to see how your decay times are doing across the entire spectrum. The ideal situation (hard to achieve!) is that all frequencies decay at roughly the same rate, and that there is no more than 50ms difference between adjacent 1/3 octave bands.
I obviously dont want to have a dead sounding space after adding more absorption to the room
Right! That's why it is important to check in REW after you install each treatment device, to see how it affected the decay times. Then, if necessary, modify the device to improve the situation again.

- Stuart -
flyguyz
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Re: Need help with vocal booth/ room dimensions

Post by flyguyz »

Quick question,

I was thinking about using roxul safe n sound instead of OC 703 due to the cost and availability in my area.

However, you mentioned making 4" panels for behind the speaker, and the roxul sns only comes in 3" depths.

Is it ok to use a 3" panel of safe n sound with an air gap of 3 or 4" off the wall instead of using two layers of the 2" OC 703?

Also, I have a bunch of 2" studio foam from auralex leftover from a previous home studio, Is there any use trying to repurpose any of this material into the panels or is the density of the foam not worth the hassle?
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Re: Need help with vocal booth/ room dimensions

Post by Gregwor »

I was thinking about using roxul safe n sound instead of OC 703 due to the cost and availability in my area.
Safe n Sound actually performs well. It is flimsy and hard to work with in my opinion though!
Is it ok to use a 3" panel of safe n sound with an air gap of 3 or 4" off the wall instead of using two layers of the 2" OC 703?
If it were that easy and cheap, everyone would do it. The more insulation there is, the better it will perform.

You're describing a cavity that is either 6 or 7" deep. (3" insulation + 3" gap, or 3" insulation + 4" gap). You could use a bit of both types of insulation to fill the cavity.

For 6" you could use two batts of safe n sound. For 7" you could use 2 batts of safe n sound and 1" of OC 703. Or, worst case you could use 2 batts of safe n sound and leave a 1" air gap at the back.
Also, I have a bunch of 2" studio foam from auralex leftover from a previous home studio, Is there any use trying to repurpose any of this material into the panels or is the density of the foam not worth the hassle?
In my personal experience, removing Auralex foam from a room has yielded huge improvements. It has it's place, sure. But I'd stay away from it until your REW tests say you need to treat something that the Auralex would target.

Greg
It appears that you've made the mistake most people do. You started building without consulting this forum.
flyguyz
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Re: Need help with vocal booth/ room dimensions

Post by flyguyz »

Gregwor wrote:
I was thinking about using roxul safe n sound instead of OC 703 due to the cost and availability in my area.
Safe n Sound actually performs well. It is flimsy and hard to work with in my opinion though!
Is it ok to use a 3" panel of safe n sound with an air gap of 3 or 4" off the wall instead of using two layers of the 2" OC 703?
If it were that easy and cheap, everyone would do it. The more insulation there is, the better it will perform.
I was referring to this quote from Stuart up above "Set them up against the front wall, with just a 4" gap where you can insert a 4" panel of good absorption, such as OC-703 between the speaker and the wall." I was wondering if a 3" panel of roxul could be used instead of a 4" panel of oc703, and now that I re-read his statement, it sounds like the panel should be flush against the front wall? I was assuming a 4" panel with a 4" air gap behind the panel, and then my speakers directly in front of the panel.

So would a 3" panel of safe n sound with a 1' air gap be ok?, or would I be better off locating the 703 and using the 4"panel flush against the wall.


You're describing a cavity that is either 6 or 7" deep. (3" insulation + 3" gap, or 3" insulation + 4" gap). You could use a bit of both types of insulation to fill the cavity.

For 6" you could use two batts of safe n sound. For 7" you could use 2 batts of safe n sound and 1" of OC 703. Or, worst case you could use 2 batts of safe n sound and leave a 1" air gap at the back.
Also, I have a bunch of 2" studio foam from auralex leftover from a previous home studio, Is there any use trying to repurpose any of this material into the panels or is the density of the foam not worth the hassle?
In my personal experience, removing Auralex foam from a room has yielded huge improvements. It has it's place, sure. But I'd stay away from it until your REW tests say you need to treat something that the Auralex would target.

Greg
Gregwor
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Re: Need help with vocal booth/ room dimensions

Post by Gregwor »

So would a 3" panel of safe n sound with a 1' air gap be ok?, or would I be better off locating the 703 and using the 4"panel flush against the wall.
Here is an explanation from Stuart about why you need 4" of insulation. Since SBIR is such a horrible thing, I wouldn't screw around with 3" of insulation. I'd personally opt to use 4" of 703 for this.

"You can diminish the SBIR dip by using suitable absorption on the front wall, directly behind the speaker. The only problem is that the absorption has to be quite large with respect to the wavelength: at least 7% of the wavelength, and ideally more. So for low frequencies you need very, very thick insulation. The wavelength at 50Hz, for example, is about 22 feet, so the insulation would need to be nearly 2 feet thick to be effective. On the other hand, if you could arrange things so that the dip occurs at, say, 280 Hz, the wavelength is only 4 feet, and 7% of that is about three and a half inches, ... which just happens to fit a 4" thick panel of OC-703 insulation very well! And as luck would have it, the absorption coefficient of a 4" panel of OC-703 against the wall, at 280 Hz, is 1.24!"

Greg
It appears that you've made the mistake most people do. You started building without consulting this forum.
Soundman2020
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Re: Need help with vocal booth/ room dimensions

Post by Soundman2020 »

I was referring to this quote from Stuart up above "Set them up against the front wall, with just a 4" gap where you can insert a 4" panel of good absorption, such as OC-703 between the speaker and the wall." I was wondering if a 3" panel of roxul could be used instead of a 4" panel of oc703, and now that I re-read his statement, it sounds like the panel should be flush against the front wall? I was assuming a 4" panel with a 4" air gap behind the panel, and then my speakers directly in front of the panel.

So would a 3" panel of safe n sound with a 1' air gap be ok?, or would I be better off locating the 703 and using the 4"panel flush against the wall.
I guess what I wrote was a little ambiguous, talking about 4" gap and 4" panels... Greg is right: What I meant was that you need a 4" panel between the wall and the rear of the speaker. If you can move your speaker out another two inches and still have a decent frequency for the SBIR dip, then 6" of absorption would be even better. More depth is better. As long as you can keep the FRONT face of the speaker less than about 18" from the front wall, you are probably OK. 18" is the quarter wave of 190 Hz, and for waves much longer that you are into diminishing returns: even though you have more thickness of absorption, it is getting less and less effective. Personally, I'd try to keep it under 16", which is fine as long as your speaker is no deeper than twelve inches...

If you can't find the right thickness insulation, then leaving an air gap between the wall and the insulation is OK, as long as you still have reasonable thickness. For example, let's say you can get your speaker face 16" away from the wall and still have a 5" gap, it would be OK to put in 4" thick insulation with a 1" gap, or 3" thick insulation with a 2" gap in the worst case, but not 2" or 1" insulation. If you only have 2" insulation, then put in two layers to get 4", plus an air gap. If you only have 1" insulation then put in five layers!. All of those options would give you roughly the same absorption in the region of 200 Hz, which is where the dip would be.

Also, lower density is slightly better here: 701 would be better than 703, if you can get it.

- Stuart -
flyguyz
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Re: Need help with vocal booth/ room dimensions

Post by flyguyz »

Thanks for the explanation Stuart.

I would only be able to move it out another 1/2" or so, therefore, its looking like my options are 3" roxul safe n sound panel with a 1"-1.5" air gap, 4" panel of 701 or 703 with 0-1/2" air gap.
flyguyz
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Re: Need help with vocal booth/ room dimensions

Post by flyguyz »

Here are some updated mdat files with the speakers moved closer to the wall, 4" gap between the rear corner of the speaker and the surface of the front wall.

I ran three different test in this position

1) 4" baseline test without the room compensation switch engaged

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xt6aj746s3hx ... gUNya?dl=0

2) 4" baseline test with the room compensation switch at -2db

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/58kqnochk7b8 ... cs-wa?dl=0

3) 4" baseline test with the room compensation switch at -4db

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gz3y8pc202jq ... UY-da?dl=0

Im curious to hear what you think of the results. It looks like the dip in the low end isn't as large as it was previously, however, there is a large dip around 120 now :cry:

Let me know how you think I should proceed when you get a chance to check out the mdat files.

I am going to proceed with filling the super chunk bass traps for now.

I attached a picture of how the speakers were positioned. Nevermind the position of the desk, its off center so that my short monitor cables can reach, I'll have to order longer cables if I plan on keeping them close to the front wall.

By the way, the microphone is at a distance of 76.6" away from the front wall which is about 35% of the total room length (~222")

The tip of the triangle (18" behind the microphone/ear position) is at a distance of 94.6 Inches from the front wall which is about 43% of the total room length.

The width of the room is 187"

The height of the room is 122.625" ( I believe, will have to double check), and the drop ceiling is at a height of about 94"

Thank You!
flyguyz
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Re: Need help with vocal booth/ room dimensions

Post by flyguyz »

I've attached a screenshot of the REW results showing before and after moving the speakers 4" from the front wall. It looks like the drop at 46 Hz did move as you predicted (did it move to 200 Hz?), however, there is now a large drop at about 114 Hz.

The drop at 65 Hz still exists, not sure how to attack that...

Is the 114 Hz treatable?

Based on the new results, would you still conclude that its worthwhile moving the speakers up against the front wall (4" gap)?

I have finished the superchunks and will run another test today and post the results.

In the meantime, I'd love to get your feedback/input on these test results and any suggestions you may have for next steps forward.

Thanks Stuart!
flyguyz
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Re: Need help with vocal booth/ room dimensions

Post by flyguyz »

I've attached updated REW files and a graph showing the room response after adding 4 floor to ceiling super chunks in the front and rear corners of the room.

Please review my last post as well to see the results of moving the speaker location to 4" From the front wall.

This latest test is with the speakers 4" from the front wall and the addition of super chunks.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vms3zqjrjbq1m ... .mdat?dl=0
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Re: Need help with vocal booth/ room dimensions

Post by Gregwor »

So you don’t have insulation behind the speakers?

Are you able to share some mdat files with us?

Greg
It appears that you've made the mistake most people do. You started building without consulting this forum.
flyguyz
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Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2016 10:32 am
Location: Rochester, NY

Re: Need help with vocal booth/ room dimensions

Post by flyguyz »

Gregwor wrote:So you don’t have insulation behind the speakers?

Are you able to share some mdat files with us?

Greg
Correct, no insulation behind the speakers yet, that will be my next step.

I shared a drop box link to the mdat file in my previous post.

Thanks!
Gregwor
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Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2017 6:03 pm
Location: St. Albert, Alberta, Canada

Re: Need help with vocal booth/ room dimensions

Post by Gregwor »

Awesome. I'm excited to see the insulation behind the speaker difference. Make sure they are large panels of insulation.

Greg
It appears that you've made the mistake most people do. You started building without consulting this forum.
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