can i get some oppinions please
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funkbutt
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2003 5:38 am
- Location: mays landing n.j.
here it is
this is the new plan .email me if you need it enlarged. kiddkubi@yahoo.com
let the funk begin
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knightfly
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
Also, don't underestimate your need for sound isolation from neighbors - I live on 10 acres, and with standard stud wall construction my band (when rehearsing with full PA and drums) was "free entertainment" for my second neighbors INSIDE their house about 350 feet away. (the closer neighbor was hard of hearing, count your blessings :=)
Point being, be sure to check out the sticky "complete section" for tips on isolation construction... Steve
Point being, be sure to check out the sticky "complete section" for tips on isolation construction... Steve
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funkbutt
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2003 5:38 am
- Location: mays landing n.j.
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funkbutt
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2003 5:38 am
- Location: mays landing n.j.
and here is what i added
the wall change in room # 2 .and i wondered why the speakers are in the wall in the control booth ( bass traps?)and why is the console away from the wall in the control room?and what is the space for behind the couch in the control room ?
let the funk begin
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knightfly
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
Nice layout, as usual - not sure if you're OK with the smaller room sizes, but isolation would be better. Double doors are barely able to match the isolation of fixed walls, single ones fail miserably. That's why all the "air locks" -
Mounting speakers flush with walls smooths out the frequency response and acoustic interferences that screw up your stereo imaging - almost any speaker you get will sound better mounted this way. The bass trap part is just a bonus (you'll need even more trapping than that)
The console is away from the wall in order to get a proper stereo relationship between your head and the speakers - you need an equilateral triangle between the two speakers and your head.
You also need to NOT put either your head or a speaker in a spot whose coordinates within the room are an even fraction of any dimension, with the exception of your head being centered from left to right. This means that you don't put your head or speakers at 1/2, 1/3, 1/4, 1/5, or 1/6 of the distance between any two boundaries. If you do, then you will experience larger "nulls" and/or "peaks" in perceived frequency response due to wave cancellations or reinforcements. This also applies to height - head/speakers should NOT be at even fractions of ceiling height.
The space behind the couch would be built as a broadband trap/absorber - typically with rigid fiberglas lined rear walls, fluffy-wrapped homosote hanging panels inside (separated by a couple inches from each other), then more rigid fiberglas on the inside of the outer frame, fluffy fiberglas glued to that (toward the control room) and finally a fire treated cloth cover over all. This will give a sort of "gradual impedance" trapping effect, keeping mid/high frequency reflections from returning to the mix position and smearing stereo imaging, and also (the hangers and rear fiberglas) trapping more bass to even out the room response.
Try searching on "bass hangers" for more posts on this type of construction, don't remember where it's at... Steve
Mounting speakers flush with walls smooths out the frequency response and acoustic interferences that screw up your stereo imaging - almost any speaker you get will sound better mounted this way. The bass trap part is just a bonus (you'll need even more trapping than that)
The console is away from the wall in order to get a proper stereo relationship between your head and the speakers - you need an equilateral triangle between the two speakers and your head.
You also need to NOT put either your head or a speaker in a spot whose coordinates within the room are an even fraction of any dimension, with the exception of your head being centered from left to right. This means that you don't put your head or speakers at 1/2, 1/3, 1/4, 1/5, or 1/6 of the distance between any two boundaries. If you do, then you will experience larger "nulls" and/or "peaks" in perceived frequency response due to wave cancellations or reinforcements. This also applies to height - head/speakers should NOT be at even fractions of ceiling height.
The space behind the couch would be built as a broadband trap/absorber - typically with rigid fiberglas lined rear walls, fluffy-wrapped homosote hanging panels inside (separated by a couple inches from each other), then more rigid fiberglas on the inside of the outer frame, fluffy fiberglas glued to that (toward the control room) and finally a fire treated cloth cover over all. This will give a sort of "gradual impedance" trapping effect, keeping mid/high frequency reflections from returning to the mix position and smearing stereo imaging, and also (the hangers and rear fiberglas) trapping more bass to even out the room response.
Try searching on "bass hangers" for more posts on this type of construction, don't remember where it's at... Steve
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funkbutt
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2003 5:38 am
- Location: mays landing n.j.
thanx steve for all of your effort in helping me out ,i truly appreciate it.i have a few changes ive made ,due to actually laying out the rooms in there proper space. here is a pic for you.as far as the other stuff you posted i kinda figured that it would need to be addressed but have been kinda busy here at work so i didnt have to much time to play or check back that often... 
let the funk begin