URGENT: Wall Finishes?

spicyitaliano · Post by **spicyitaliano** » Wed Dec 10, 2003 1:13 am

The construction builders just started the wall board process, and they've asked me what kind of finish I need. Does it matter? The usual is orange peel, but we could just have a smooth surface. What is typical?

Any help fast would be great!

giles117 · Post by **giles117** » Wed Dec 10, 2003 5:03 am

Considering that the wall board will be hidden behind your acoustic treaments for the most part. Whatever you like. I'd go smooth

Bryan Giles

spicyitaliano · Post by **spicyitaliano** » Wed Dec 10, 2003 5:42 am

Yeah, thats what I figured. I mean, a good bit of the walls will be covered with wood, or absorbing material, or lighting, or anything else.

Anybody else care to share their experience with this?

rod gervais · Post by **rod gervais** » Thu Dec 11, 2003 1:47 am

They are most probably asking this to determine what level tape job they have to provide.

For a heavy wallpaper (picture burlap or other rough fabrics) or for textured finishes a level 3 finish is usually acceptable.

For finer papers nothing shy of a level 4 finish will do - they show a lot of sin -

For very fine delicate papers or for a smooth painted surface a level 5 (the highest level of finish) is required or lighting will show more sin than you will ever want to see.

Remember that the joints are always raised above the drywall when the taping is completed - and thus create shadow line when hit with lighting - smooth finishes tend to exxagerate this effect - where as the heavier textures and finishes tend to diffuse the light and hide it.

Rod

giles117 · Post by **giles117** » Thu Dec 11, 2003 2:05 am

Good info Rod.Never knew there was a difference. they don't cover that in the DIY manulas.

I always used the fibreglass tape cuz it stuck and didn't bubble up. Then some white paint.

I do recall the Joist thing though from back when I remodeled my last home. Never knew what to do just looked so ugly.

Bryan Giles

rod gervais · Post by **rod gervais** » Thu Dec 11, 2003 3:50 am

Bryan,

The trick with joints is to minimize butt joints - stagger them when you absolutely have to have them - and try to arrange them so that they align with lighting instead of being offset from it.

If a light shines on the center of a vertical joint it doesn't cast a shadow.

Also, the higher the rating of the tape job the wider the joint becomes - this tends to make the shadow effects somewhat gentler.

If you want a truly magnificent job - then go for the blue board plaster finishes.

Due to the fact that the final coat covers the entire wall surface there are no visable joints when it's completed.

But that is not a DIY project - it takes a real pro to complete properly..... and trust me - you will pay for it.

Rod

giles117 · Post by **giles117** » Thu Dec 11, 2003 5:05 am

Believe you me, i learned. Except for this studio building I am hiring pro for the job. the studios i have built all end up be covered by treatments so you never see my amatuerish work. LOL

Bryan Giles.

Thanks for the insite

knightfly · Post by **knightfly** » Thu Dec 11, 2003 6:18 am

If you ever get masochistic enough to WANT to do that kind of job, I have one book called Drywall (catchy title, huh?) by Myron Ferguson, that is very thorough (although pretty light on sound proof construction)

I got mine at HD, but it's also available at Amazon - if you go to Books and just type drywall into the search box, it's the first book that comes up - Runs about $14, worth it just for the education... Steve

giles117 · Post by **giles117** » Thu Dec 11, 2003 6:56 am

Thnx Steve I dragged the link to my desktop. Maybe when I start managing properties again I'll snatch it up...

Bryan Giles