Should I Remove Sheetrock for Better Isolation?

tmix · Post by **tmix** » Tue Dec 02, 2003 9:44 pm

Currently my Studio is a converted 3rd bay of my garage (11.5ft x 20 ft)
It has masory (brick) exterior on 2 sides a sealed off front door and a 2 sided clad common wall to the garage (1/2 inch sheetrock both sides) with insulation all the way around.

As I build my inner rooms within this room, should I be removing the existing sheetrock on the interior walls (and ceiling?) so as to have the interior space between not interupted by the the sheetrock.

It seems that I read in several posts to NOT have a leaf bettween the inner and outer walls. I am also wondering if I do need to remove the ceiling sheetrock becase it is only on one side (the "interior")

Sorry for the questions, just a drummer trying to make sense of it all!

Michael Jones · Post by **Michael Jones** » Wed Dec 03, 2003 2:38 am

You might think that, and in theory, its true that that action would increase the STC of the wall section, however; doing so would mean that your "wall section" would become the outside exterior wall and the inside interior wall of your studio. That, in theory, would make a really good wall section.

BUT, having the existing exterior wall as part of your section means that you are willing to accept the construction of that wall as air tight.
Its probably not!
Personally, I wouldn't take down the inside sheetrock. Just consider the existing exterior wall as "non-existant", and that's a good assumption for a wall thats not air tight.

Follow me?

Now, what you could do is remove the sheetrock on the inside of that exterior wall, and place sheetrock, or layers of it between the studs, sealing them well, and that'll make that exterior wall air-tight.

knightfly · Post by **knightfly** » Wed Dec 03, 2003 3:04 am

Michael is most likely right on all counts - but to be sure, I'd like to see a fairly detailed drawing and more description from you on EXACTLY how your walls (especially the outer, masonry ones) are built.

Look near the bottom of your masonry walls very closely - you may see "weep holes" - they are there to allow condensed moisture to escape rather than cause problems inside. Some construction (brick veneer for example) usually has them - concrete block may or may not, and solid concrete walls usually do NOT.

This is likely what Michael is referring to by "air tight" - just a tiny crack in a wall negates much of its effectiveness as a sound barrier, and intentional holes are even worse. Without knowing that, it's not possible to recommend the right construction for sound isolation.

If you can post either some pix or a drawing or two (even paint is better than nothing) it would make things much easier to discuss... Steve

tmix · Post by **tmix** » Wed Dec 03, 2003 4:49 am

I appreciate your input!
Yes, let me draw some sketches. I helped buildthe house 18 years ago so I know for a fact that primarily on the exterior wall it is studs with 1/2 inc plywood as a skin and then brick veneer with the obligatory weep holes.On the rest of the house we used styrofoam (3/4 inch) and then plywood. I am going to check with the builder (my DAD) to see if he remembers if we clad the garage with the foam as well.

I'll get back!

Michael Jones · Post by **Michael Jones** » Wed Dec 03, 2003 7:05 am

knightfly wrote:Michael is most likely right on all counts - Steve

See!

Who said I haven't been paying attention in class!

knightfly · Post by **knightfly** » Wed Dec 03, 2003 9:29 am

OK, where are the fucking gold star emoticons when ya really need 'em??!?

Now that you're a "A-COO-STISHUN", we've got this nice, quiet, rubber room all ready fer ya - don't worry, all that padding isn't because we think yer insane, it's just for "A-COO-STIX" - (Yeah, that's it - just fer sound, not 'cause yer a nut-case...)