control room window construction

telefunken · Post by **telefunken** » Tue Nov 04, 2003 4:31 am

i have a question about what to use for sealing a control room window.
im using 3/4" pine as the jamb, and 11/16" pine for the stops.
i built a test window [with an old piece of glass i found in the garbage] so im prepared for the "real" window construction, when i finally order the glass.
a few questions. im using this detail for the window, with a few minor mods:
http://www.soundcontrolroom.com/window_details.htm

on my test window i used a white rubber "x-treme" weatherstrip from home depot, the same width as my stops. one piece on each glass side of the stops. is this enough or should i go for a neoprene seal? i would like avoid using any type of caulk, i would prefer something that gets pressed against the glass on both sides.
also how tight should the outer stop be pressed against the glass? i nailed the inner stops first, and then held the glass against that, and pressed hard on the outer stop, and nailed it.

i just did one side of the jamb, and the glass can stand up on its own, but its not like perfectly straight, is that tight enough?
im also using 3d nails, 1 1/2" should i use something bigger or that will do? 6d were recommended in the past, but for my size stops and jamb, the nails would be sticking out.
any help would be appreciated.

knightfly · Post by **knightfly** » Tue Nov 04, 2003 4:52 pm

Saw your post over on RO, and thought the answer from HiString was pretty good - however, if I hit the hay right now I'll get about 4 hours sleep before a 12-hour shift, so I'll have to check this tomorrow night and get back to you, sorry... Steve

giles117 · Post by **giles117** » Wed Nov 05, 2003 12:23 am

I Know the neoprene seal will work, not sure of the sealing charcteristics of the X-strip you are talking about. Neoprene (at least here in MI ) is not as expensive as people think. I got all the neoprene for windows for about 30 bucks with extra left over. I used 1/8" Neoprene - closed cell kind.

I Constructed mine in like manner. I used 6d finishing nails going through the stops into the jamb, pressing tight up against the window. (Neoprene on either side of the glass as well as on the jamb beneath the stops. I Sealed the jamb onto the sill studs with acoustical sealent to stop any airgaps at that point.

Bryan Giles

telefunken · Post by **telefunken** » Fri Nov 07, 2003 4:29 am

steve,

sorry to be a bother, but id appreciated your input on my control room window. as you are one of the people whos opinion i respect the most.

also i should mention the window is roughly 3x7' should i be using larger stops then 11/16th? any other advice would be appreciated.

knightfly · Post by **knightfly** » Sat Nov 08, 2003 3:41 am

About the only change I'd make would be to use #7 or #8 screws instead of nails - use as long as you have room for, use a proper countersinking pilot bit specifically for that size screw, and space them about every 6 inches. This will be less likely to cause your stops to split, and will be considerably stronger and less likely to vibrate. Don't overtighten (practice on some scraps first) but get them all snug.

That large a glass isn't light, so you don't want it coming out of the frame -

Also, be sure to get some cloth gloves before you start - clean the glass well, dry it, and only handle it with gloves afterward. There's nothing more exasperating than smudges and fingerprints inside a glass. Also, find a spot (under a piece of absorbent material in the cavity) for some dessicant. If you can't find the actual stuff locally, you can use some of the "clumping" kitty litter tied inside pieces of panty hose in little packets. This also works well in tool boxes to keep rusting under control.

Work with a helper, and discuss this to DEATH before you start so nobody gets hurt or breaks anything... Steve