Greetings!!!!!!
what an amazing site this is!!!!!!! i have already begun construction and believe i am on a fairly decent road according to what i have seen at the SAE site.
I have added an attachment with my(very, very, very) rough design- i am on a mac and only have clarisworks draw - hope you can open or translate it..............
my walls are being built as follows insulation-5/8"drywall-1/2"soundboard-1/2"rc channel-5/8" drywall - THEN????????????? - for an inexpensive way to absorb could you use thin carpet pad then cloth -i was planning to do the whole room this way...??? is this insane????
oh by the way- the floor is floated and will be finished entirely with hardwood
please let me know if you need dimensions if you can't open file and i will try to explain it
thank you thank you
cheers
m
steve-
thanks so much for replying- i'm sure i have the order of layers wrong now that i look at it - the room is a stand alone garage- only the floors have been floated and the booth framed at this point.
cheers m
final wall treatment
Moderators: Aaronw, kendale, John Sayers
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final wall treatment
Last edited by mo on Wed Aug 20, 2003 2:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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M, the file doesn't show up at all - try editing your message, click Browse, find the file on your hard drive, then paste the file location into the browse box and Submit. Not sure what your program generates, but jpg, gif, tif all work OK...
Your wall construction is scaring me, I hope you've not already DONE that. Please detail the ENTIRE wall, INCLUDING what's already there, from the area OUTSIDE your studio, step by step to where you would stand INSIDE the studio. You can use the EXACT same amount of material and get over 20 dB difference in isolation, JUST BY WHERE YOU PUT your materials... Steve
Your wall construction is scaring me, I hope you've not already DONE that. Please detail the ENTIRE wall, INCLUDING what's already there, from the area OUTSIDE your studio, step by step to where you would stand INSIDE the studio. You can use the EXACT same amount of material and get over 20 dB difference in isolation, JUST BY WHERE YOU PUT your materials... Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
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Yeah man...that RC placement would be a big issue if you've already built the wallsknightfly wrote: Your wall construction is scaring me, I hope you've not already DONE that. Please detail the ENTIRE wall, INCLUDING what's already there, from the area OUTSIDE your studio, step by step to where you would stand INSIDE the studio. You can use the EXACT same amount of material and get over 20 dB difference in isolation, JUST BY WHERE YOU PUT your materials... Steve

Kind regards
Sen
Sen
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re:final wall treatment
so what do you suggest........
m
m
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Sorry, Mo, I didn't notice that you also edited the TEXT of your message.
First, if you're splaying your walls to control flutter echoes, they should be sloped by 1 foot per 10 feet of length on each side, to get 6 degrees of splay per side for a total of 12 degrees. If you float wall frames separately on each floated floor, they should only have paneling on one side of each frame. What you want is to have only two centers of mass with only one air space between any two areas - this includes ceiling construction as well. Any extra leaves will do very little, and may actually LESSEN the isolation you get.
Depending on how much isolation you need, you'll probably want either two or three layers of wallboard in each of the two leaves of your walls - one of these leaves should be solidly mounted to the frame, with the frame sealed to all surfaces with acoustic sealant - the other side of each wall should be resiliently mounted using Resilient Channel, known here as RC.
There are discussions on this part here in a few threads - Here's one I did for Carl to kind of coagulate most of the info...
http://johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=598
One thing I forgot to directly state in that post, was that you NEVER want to put RC over existing wallboard and then add more wallboard - counting the covering on the OTHER side of the wall frame, this constituted a triple-leaf wall, which will always have worse performance than the same amount of materials arranged in only TWO leaves.
After you wade through this stuff, come on back and I'll try to clear up anything you have questions about... Steve
First, if you're splaying your walls to control flutter echoes, they should be sloped by 1 foot per 10 feet of length on each side, to get 6 degrees of splay per side for a total of 12 degrees. If you float wall frames separately on each floated floor, they should only have paneling on one side of each frame. What you want is to have only two centers of mass with only one air space between any two areas - this includes ceiling construction as well. Any extra leaves will do very little, and may actually LESSEN the isolation you get.
Depending on how much isolation you need, you'll probably want either two or three layers of wallboard in each of the two leaves of your walls - one of these leaves should be solidly mounted to the frame, with the frame sealed to all surfaces with acoustic sealant - the other side of each wall should be resiliently mounted using Resilient Channel, known here as RC.
There are discussions on this part here in a few threads - Here's one I did for Carl to kind of coagulate most of the info...
http://johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=598
One thing I forgot to directly state in that post, was that you NEVER want to put RC over existing wallboard and then add more wallboard - counting the covering on the OTHER side of the wall frame, this constituted a triple-leaf wall, which will always have worse performance than the same amount of materials arranged in only TWO leaves.
After you wade through this stuff, come on back and I'll try to clear up anything you have questions about... Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
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- Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2003 4:30 pm
- Location: North Hollywood,CA
thanks steve-
the other thing i was curious about was final wall treatment- is there something cheaper than 703 that i can use under fabric?????? what would carpet pad be like???? i know more tuning will be necessary ( possilble slats-we'll see-- actually we'll hear!!! ...)- just wondering.......
cheers
m
the other thing i was curious about was final wall treatment- is there something cheaper than 703 that i can use under fabric?????? what would carpet pad be like???? i know more tuning will be necessary ( possilble slats-we'll see-- actually we'll hear!!! ...)- just wondering.......
cheers
m