Wall Construction Info
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Wall Construction Info
Hello,
I did a search to see if this info has been posted before, my apologies if it has. This is a cool PDF from Owens Corining on interior acoustical wall construction.
Brian
http://www.owenscorning.com/around/soun ... all-US.pdf
I did a search to see if this info has been posted before, my apologies if it has. This is a cool PDF from Owens Corining on interior acoustical wall construction.
Brian
http://www.owenscorning.com/around/soun ... all-US.pdf
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Lee, you may have noticed the lack of my usual verbosity earlier - I had just gotten off a 12-hour graveyard shift and couldn't think of a gentle way of saying that, thanks...
Brian, that system would be cool if you had the money and not the time, and wanted someone else to build a room for you - by having a contractor that had used this system install it correctly, you would most likely get a decently quiet room -
Which is better than trying to tell a contractor that thinks he knows the entire building trade that he can't first build the room and then soundproof it, but nowhere near as good as a room that's built from the ground up using EVERY means available to keep ALL the causes of poor sound isolation from degrading room performance.
I've looked at other manufacturer's "quiet" products, and when you finally cut through the marketing crap (if you ever do) you find that you could do as well by adding a second layer of wallboard and some quality caulk.
What it comes down to, is how involved do you want to get versus how much money do you have/want to spend?
Once you've clarified THAT in your mind, you'll know whether to study everything you can (DIY) or look for contractor references involving sound proof rooms (Prepare to rape your checkbook)
There's no ONE correct answer, it always depends on the total set of circumstances. For example, if I were to win a $60 mil powerball drawing tomorrow, I'd probably be considering letting (a carefully chosen) someone ELSE design/build my studio, while I got back in touch with which end of a guitar goes in your mouth... :=) Steve
Brian, that system would be cool if you had the money and not the time, and wanted someone else to build a room for you - by having a contractor that had used this system install it correctly, you would most likely get a decently quiet room -
Which is better than trying to tell a contractor that thinks he knows the entire building trade that he can't first build the room and then soundproof it, but nowhere near as good as a room that's built from the ground up using EVERY means available to keep ALL the causes of poor sound isolation from degrading room performance.
I've looked at other manufacturer's "quiet" products, and when you finally cut through the marketing crap (if you ever do) you find that you could do as well by adding a second layer of wallboard and some quality caulk.
What it comes down to, is how involved do you want to get versus how much money do you have/want to spend?
Once you've clarified THAT in your mind, you'll know whether to study everything you can (DIY) or look for contractor references involving sound proof rooms (Prepare to rape your checkbook)
There's no ONE correct answer, it always depends on the total set of circumstances. For example, if I were to win a $60 mil powerball drawing tomorrow, I'd probably be considering letting (a carefully chosen) someone ELSE design/build my studio, while I got back in touch with which end of a guitar goes in your mouth... :=) Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
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My bad......I was doing some research last night while I has experiencing some insomnia and didn't look close enough at what I was reading. It does illustrate how to seal the partitions with acoustical sealant, but that and more is covered in the USG Bible(thanks for that link Steve). I didn't realize I was looking at some magic proprietary BS sound rated wall.....doh I would definitely rather build my own than contract it out(that's why I'm here). Anyway, I've learned a lot from lurking around here. Thankfully, I've been able to find Knauf Fiberglass Board, USG Acoustical Sealant, Resilient Channel, and sheets of neoprene here locally. I'm finalizing my design and about to start construction. Wish me luck.
Thanks again,
Brian
Thanks again,
Brian
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Luck...
Maybe helpful - Home Depot now carries (at least in my area) an attachment by Senco ($50) that turns either a Milwaukee, DeWalt, or Makita screw gun into a strip-fed "assault screwdriver) - The strip fed screws are about $16 per 1000, available in square drive (phillips suck) and they carry both wood and steel versions (but NOT the Type G laminating)
HTH... Steve
Maybe helpful - Home Depot now carries (at least in my area) an attachment by Senco ($50) that turns either a Milwaukee, DeWalt, or Makita screw gun into a strip-fed "assault screwdriver) - The strip fed screws are about $16 per 1000, available in square drive (phillips suck) and they carry both wood and steel versions (but NOT the Type G laminating)
HTH... Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
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Not yet, still droolin/ - I have a Makita corded screw gun that the DS-200 would fit.
Only thing I didn't like was that the longer one won't do short screws, so it wouldn't work to save ladder time for ceiling work - other than that, it seems like a good idea. Gotta look closer before I'll recommend it though... Steve
Only thing I didn't like was that the longer one won't do short screws, so it wouldn't work to save ladder time for ceiling work - other than that, it seems like a good idea. Gotta look closer before I'll recommend it though... Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
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No, that's not what I meant - the DS-200 supports 1" through 2" screws, and in that respect is perfect for drywall, even in studios (til you start on that THIRD layer, that is)
What I meant was, they also offer a DS-300 series, which is longer (the tool, that is) in order to do decks without having to bend over.
Summary -
The DS-200 series does shorter screws (1" to 2"), and is a shorter tool. Fine for up to two layers of drywall.
The DS-300 series does longer screws (1-1/4" to 3") and is a longer tool, so it can be used for decking while standing up (length is adj. from 31" to 41")
It would be nice if they offered some kind of extender for the 200 series, and a slightly wider range of screw lengths, so you could do EVERYTHING with the one tool - so far, it doesn't look like that's the case. Also, my Home Depot wants $50 for the DS-200, $100 for the DS-300, so if you needed both it would be $150 PLUS the cost of the screw gun itself (these are JUST ATTACHMENTS, they have other models that are complete)
The way it looks right now, you would need BOTH versions if you intended more than two layers of paneling on your walls. Also, the minimum 31" length of the 300 series tool would make it difficult to get close enough to the job for horizontal driving, yet that's the model needed for longer than 2" screws. That's OK for decks, but not great if you're either working on walls or on a ladder doing ceilings...
If you want more info, go here
http://www.senco.com/con_rem/prod_sheets.asp
and scroll down to Screw System Attachments... Steve
What I meant was, they also offer a DS-300 series, which is longer (the tool, that is) in order to do decks without having to bend over.
Summary -
The DS-200 series does shorter screws (1" to 2"), and is a shorter tool. Fine for up to two layers of drywall.
The DS-300 series does longer screws (1-1/4" to 3") and is a longer tool, so it can be used for decking while standing up (length is adj. from 31" to 41")
It would be nice if they offered some kind of extender for the 200 series, and a slightly wider range of screw lengths, so you could do EVERYTHING with the one tool - so far, it doesn't look like that's the case. Also, my Home Depot wants $50 for the DS-200, $100 for the DS-300, so if you needed both it would be $150 PLUS the cost of the screw gun itself (these are JUST ATTACHMENTS, they have other models that are complete)
The way it looks right now, you would need BOTH versions if you intended more than two layers of paneling on your walls. Also, the minimum 31" length of the 300 series tool would make it difficult to get close enough to the job for horizontal driving, yet that's the model needed for longer than 2" screws. That's OK for decks, but not great if you're either working on walls or on a ladder doing ceilings...
If you want more info, go here
http://www.senco.com/con_rem/prod_sheets.asp
and scroll down to Screw System Attachments... Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
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Yeah, for probably 95% of studio building the 200 would handle it, and if you've already got one of the supported screw guns it's only $50 (you'd need screws anyway, and they're not out of line pricewise with any other collated fasteners I've seen)... Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
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