Hi!
I'm really thankful for forums like this where I've really learned a lot! I'm planning on building a few panel absorbers designed by Mr. Winer, but have a few questions before I dive in.
I'm moving into a new apartment soon, and one where I may not be staying for long. So drilling stuff into the walls is not an option. I did read a past post here that said another solution would be to just close up the back end with some plywood to make it airtight. Would I then still have to somehow attach it to the walls, or could I even (extreme case) put it on a set of wheels and move it around the room (or even different rooms!)? Also, would there be extra benefits in putting them diagonally in the corners? I was thinking I could use something semi-permanent such as silicon to make the whole thing airtight.
Finally, I can't get 703 or 705 in my area, but I can get my paws on rockwool. What would be the optimum density and thickness for low frequencies?
Jeff.
Panels in the corner?
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Re: Panels in the corner?
Jeff,
> just close up the back end with some plywood to make it airtight. <
Yes you can do that, as long as the back is at least three times more rigid and massive than the front panel.
> put it on a set of wheels and move it around the room <
Panel traps need to mounted either on the wall, or as close to the wall as possible. Unlike fiberglass and foam which work best when spaced slightly away from the wall, panel traps work best right at the wall.
> would there be extra benefits in putting them diagonally in the corners? <
No, that would be worse. The best way to treat a corner with panel traps is to put one on each wall as close as possible to the corner.
> I can't get 703 or 705 in my area, but I can get my paws on rockwool. <
Rockwool is fine as long as it's the rigid type. 703 has a density of about 3 pounds per cubic foot, and that's what you should look for in a rockwool equivalent.
--Ethan
> just close up the back end with some plywood to make it airtight. <
Yes you can do that, as long as the back is at least three times more rigid and massive than the front panel.
> put it on a set of wheels and move it around the room <
Panel traps need to mounted either on the wall, or as close to the wall as possible. Unlike fiberglass and foam which work best when spaced slightly away from the wall, panel traps work best right at the wall.
> would there be extra benefits in putting them diagonally in the corners? <
No, that would be worse. The best way to treat a corner with panel traps is to put one on each wall as close as possible to the corner.
> I can't get 703 or 705 in my area, but I can get my paws on rockwool. <
Rockwool is fine as long as it's the rigid type. 703 has a density of about 3 pounds per cubic foot, and that's what you should look for in a rockwool equivalent.
--Ethan
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Hi Ethan,
Thanks so much for the helpful info! Will make sure I keep all that in mind. So with the panel trap if I seal it and just stand it up against the wall it should work alright? What dimensions are suitable?
I'm still trying to source for the different kinds of insulation. I've only been able to find 2 inch rockwool so far, and the closest densities are 2.5, 3.75, and 5 pounds per cubic foot. Will one of those work well? If so, how should I adjust the plans given on your site?
Again, thanks!
Jeff.
Thanks so much for the helpful info! Will make sure I keep all that in mind. So with the panel trap if I seal it and just stand it up against the wall it should work alright? What dimensions are suitable?
I'm still trying to source for the different kinds of insulation. I've only been able to find 2 inch rockwool so far, and the closest densities are 2.5, 3.75, and 5 pounds per cubic foot. Will one of those work well? If so, how should I adjust the plans given on your site?
Again, thanks!
Jeff.
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- Senior Member
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- Joined: Fri Feb 21, 2003 3:50 am
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