Hey all -
I'm hoping that some of you might have had the same issues with basement design and construction. I have two 6" steel I beams that run the width of my space. My present design calls for walls to hide those, with 2 X 6 construction. My question is how to attach the studs to the bottom of the I beam, and how to build up the sides of the beam so that I can attach drywall to the studs (and the sides of the beam). I'm attaching a plan and a pic of the beam. Any help would be appreciated.
This forum rocks!!
Jim
Help needed with 6" steel I beam in basement
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If they are iso walls, possibly a sway bracket. But Steve knows best.
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 0176#10176
fitZ
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 0176#10176
fitZ
alright, breaks over , back on your heads......
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Sorry for the delay, see if this answers your questions -
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=18741
HTH... Steve
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=18741
HTH... Steve
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Jim
Usual method for attaching to the steel is to shoot into it w/ powder-actuated fasteners. Get someone experienced to help if you haven't used one; it's kinda thrilling to fire a .27 caliber blank gun into a steel beam.
If you can't find help with that, you might be able to do what we call "spider-nailling" to the bottom flange; drive 12d framing nails every 3-4 feet into the top corners of the top plate (about 3/4-1" deep), then put construction adhesive on the top surface of the plate, hold it to the bottom of the beam, then bend the nails around the beam flange to hold it.
Your plate will need to be close to the same width as the beam to work, and this won't give any withdrawal strength, but it is enough to use as a top plate for a partition under the beam. Let the adhesive dry a day or two before you pound on it when building the partition.
Frank
Usual method for attaching to the steel is to shoot into it w/ powder-actuated fasteners. Get someone experienced to help if you haven't used one; it's kinda thrilling to fire a .27 caliber blank gun into a steel beam.
If you can't find help with that, you might be able to do what we call "spider-nailling" to the bottom flange; drive 12d framing nails every 3-4 feet into the top corners of the top plate (about 3/4-1" deep), then put construction adhesive on the top surface of the plate, hold it to the bottom of the beam, then bend the nails around the beam flange to hold it.
Your plate will need to be close to the same width as the beam to work, and this won't give any withdrawal strength, but it is enough to use as a top plate for a partition under the beam. Let the adhesive dry a day or two before you pound on it when building the partition.
Frank
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