So much to cover, so y'all forgive me for getting a little "quote happy" here.
knightfly wrote:Where/what is your vapor barrier on the stucco wall?
I don't know yet. I'll find out when I tear off the existing gypsum off that wall though!
Inner walls - if space will be same temp as house, no vapor barrier needed as there will be no air infiltration without temperature delta.
Define "same temperature." I wasn't planning to run the HVAC in the studio unless it's occupied.
3rd pic - no changes, other than "weakest link" question - is the wider gap due to construction necessities? If not, other walls (and ceiling) will probably negate the extra inch and a quarter.
I'm tweaking the images so that the gap is consistent around the perimeter. Previously, I had planned on going with 6" between frames. However, I'm adjusting it to
11 3/4" between leaves, which means the distance between frames will be either 4 3/4" or 6", depending on whether or not I'm doing the "gypsum strips between studs" trick.
4th pic - ceiling - how new is this construction, and have your trusses already lifted as much as they are likely to? This is cause to use clips to mount ceiling wallboard to top plates, so trusses can "lift" as they cure - this can be over an inch in some cases, and will crack ceiling wallboard if improperly done. For this reason, paragraph F may be a bad idea.
House first sold in March 2000. I actually ran across an article in my framing research about the truss uplift phenomenon. For what it's worth, it rarely gets below freezing in my world, and summers are not humid here. Also, the garage is not heated, and the space between leaves won't be directly temperature controlled.
I have a neighbor with the same exact floorplan as mine. He framed a wood shop in the corner of his garage -- almost the same footprint as my studio plan. I can ask him how he did his walls and take a look at them -- that might give us a hint about how much, if at all, we should be concerned about this.
I saw the illlustrations and later photographs of the DIY brace -- very cool. My situation is a little different in that I need to mount the brace to the opposing
wall stud, rather than a ceiling joist like Aaron did.
Crazy ass idea: What if I
temporarily fastened a horizontal 2x4 to each wall's opposing stud, then made 2 cuts about 7/8" apart, leaving a 7/8" gap (kind of like this: ||= =|| ), then wedged a piece of 1" thick EPDM inside the gap (kind of like this: ||=0=|| )? Then I could wrap the concoction with plastic or tape to keep the wedge from getting loose and dropping out. Do you think that would work without risking turning it into a flanking path?
3 layers wall/ceiling, inside leaf - stagger joints leaving 1/4" gap each time, caulk as you go, so you have a zig-zag joint with multiple caulk seams.
Yeah, I knew you were going to say that.
(I've seen illustrations of that on other threads lately, so I know exactly what you're talking about.)
Point G - I'd save the rockwool for acoustic treatment inside; unfaced standard fiberglass slightly overfilled will give within 1-2 dB of the same performance at less cost, and the rockwool will be needed for corner killers, etc, inside the room and under the floor.
Thanks for the tip! You're saving me $ already...
5th pic - floor detail - have you done a moisture test yet? Tape a piece of plastic against the floor for a day or two, pull it up - if there's a drop of moisture on it, seal the floor. If not, seal it anyway...
I haven't yet, but I will. FYI, the blue masking tape on the floor that marks the outer perimeter of the studio space has been stuck on the floor for months, and it's stuck pretty good. (Does that stuff breathe?)
I would leave the gap between inner and outer door frames porous, so the wall cavities can breath - if you run a dehumidifier, leave the outer door closed and inner one open when not in use. The porous gap between doors will keep from having a high vacuum making the doors hard to open as well as allowing some moisture escape.
Excellent idea! How about pegboard as a "fake wall" in the "between doors" area?
Guitars and pianos, etc, like a constant humidity of 40-42% - you can get an inexpensice and accurate humidity meter here (most are either expensive or crap)
http://www.natlallergy.com/allergy/prod ... eadid/1526
I bought two of these; they read within 1% of each other in the same location, usually exact. Use them to "dial in" the useless knob on your dehumidifier to a REAL 40%...
Great tip! Thanks...
If you can match your walls with good doors/seals, you should be able to have a kick drum at around 95 dB inside before it will be audible outside on a quiet night - hearing threshold @ 50 hZ is around 55 dB, the TL of your walls @ 50 hZ will be roughly 42, with an STC of around 72-75. So even though it might not be a good plan to play death metal at 3 am, I doubt your neighbors will be calling the cops under normal circumstances...
STC of 72-75!
(I know, STC isn't the be-all-end-all number, but it's bragging rights!
)
How much you think my nudging the inner frames to 11 3/4" will improve the low end TL? Do you think it's worth the precious few inches I can barely afford? (With the adjustment, it looks like the finished room width will be about
8' 3"
not counting treatments. There's also the unpleasant fact of my having
the width almost match the height. I'm willing to sacrifice sound quality within the room to achieve higher TL, but I want to make sure I'm not shooting myself in the foot somehow.
Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You
In another thread, David (Godskid) wrote:You know what I really hate (and love) are nights when I am at my whits end having sweated over my plans for hours and I see no hope in sight.
Then I post my -- Impossible Problem -- on the fourm here.
The next morning I check my mail and our host Mr. Sayers or one of the other Moderators has posted the perfect solution to my impossible problem. it's especially effective with Mr. Sayers posts -with his full color to scale drawings detailing my fix. (Of course followed by his monaker "Cheers" )
Amen to that!!!