Hardware for door?

gdgross · Post by **gdgross** » Wed Jan 05, 2005 2:59 am

Alright folks, I've got my new door framed and mostly installed. It's a normal, solid-core 1¾" exterior door with weatherstripping and a rubber sweep to seal the bottom. I will be filling in the aluminum threshold with plumber's putty as Steve advised in another thread. There is NO bore in the door right now, so installation is obviously not totally complete.

My question relates to hardware. Is there non-penetrating hardware available for studio doors? Is it affordable? Obviously I would rather not bore all the way through the door as it would reduce my isolation.

I had the idea of buying two deadbolts and 'half' installing each one, so that they don't go all the way through the door, but I am not familiar enough with how locks work to know if this is even possible.

Also, around how much do commercial-type door closers run and where could I pick one up?

Thanks!

motown59 · Post by **motown59** » Wed Jan 05, 2005 2:47 pm

Keep in mind some fire safety concerns. I think there are some solid commercial type lever handles that may be better suited for a studio door. I'm looking into this as well since doors are next on my list. keep us posted on what transpires.

z60611 · Post by **z60611** » Wed Jan 05, 2005 3:48 pm

Is there non-penetrating hardware available for studio doors?

Have you considered hydrolic/automatic door closers ?

gdgross · Post by **gdgross** » Thu Jan 06, 2005 8:41 am

z60611 wrote:
Is there non-penetrating hardware available for studio doors?
Have you considered hydrolic/automatic door closers ?

Yes, and I probably will install one, but this door needs to have a locking handle, also.

knightfly · Post by **knightfly** » Sat Jan 08, 2005 8:17 am

This is an area I also need more education - here's one page that may help

http://www.tpromo.com/ssmag/locks/lock2/

And another

http://www.tpromo.com/ssmag/locks/lock1a/

It's easier with double airlock doors, you can do the outside mainly for security and the inside for sound.

You might consider using a "night latch" for the inside, and a keyed surface mount deadbolt for the outside, something like a Taylor (or other) jimmy-proof lock.

http://www.valuemonkey.com/1/1-0470.html

- then, instead of drilling a through-hole, only install the outside part - when you're outside, you lock the Taylor with a key; when you're inside, you have the key so no one can lock you in, and you use the night latch for an inside lock. Not sure yet if there are any reasons why this wouldn't work...

I just recently bought a Ryobi "commercial" size 4 closer at Home Depot, works really well (not used for studio though) - it's not quite light enough to pass the ADA requirement of only 5 pounds maximum pull, but should compress a soft seal pretty effectively. You'd have to be careful about penetrating the top jamb if you used the parallel arm mounting method as I did. The closer was just under $50.

That's about all I have... Steve