Wall insulation proyect... advice is welcome!

How thick should my walls be, should I float my floors (and if so, how), why is two leaf mass-air-mass design important, etc.

Moderators: Aaronw, sharward

Julián Fernández
Posts: 128
Joined: Sat Oct 09, 2004 3:23 am
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Post by Julián Fernández »

:?:
Julián Fernández
Posts: 128
Joined: Sat Oct 09, 2004 3:23 am
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Post by Julián Fernández »

Hey Sen, Thanks for the advice!
I wanna hear KF opinion, but thank you anyway!
Sen
Posts: 277
Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2003 11:07 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Post by Sen »

Sure mate he's the oneyou should listen to, not me! :)
Anyway, was I right in my interpretation of your plan?Do you actually have the plywood on one and gypsum on the other side?
cheers
Kind regards
Sen
knightfly
Senior Member
Posts: 6976
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
Location: West Coast, USA

Post by knightfly »

Sorry for the delay, my schedule often gets in the way of things I'd rather be doing -

Sen, good catch - I apparently thought the plywood was against the brick or something, thanks for calling it -

Julian, Sen's right on the money. If there is an air gap between the bricks and the rest of the construction, then only ONE side of the wood frame should have any paneling on it -

As to which bricks, I would go with the solid ones - too many problems figuring out what will happen with all those air pockets.

To review, you want two masses separated by air/insulation, the more insulation the better - one of these masses will be your brick, so you only want one other place where there is mass. This can be several layers but NO MORE AIR GAPS. Not even really small ones.

Things that will help isolation -
more mass in either or both leaf.
Thicker brick or more layers of gypsum or both.
Wider air gap, up to a foot (300mm) -
Heavier insulation, up to about 60 kG/M^3.

Hope that helped... Steve
Julián Fernández
Posts: 128
Joined: Sat Oct 09, 2004 3:23 am
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Post by Julián Fernández »

Thanks guys! I already removed the plywood from my layout! You´re such a wonderful team!
Julián Fernández
Posts: 128
Joined: Sat Oct 09, 2004 3:23 am
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Post by Julián Fernández »

Hey guys! Do u think that i can improve my STC rating by adding a RC to the frame?
Thanks!
J.
Sen
Posts: 277
Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2003 11:07 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Post by Sen »

Hello Julian,
Including the RC into the construction of the wall that you have detailed in your plan we saw, will not improve your STC.It will only be a waste of money and effort. Your stud frame is already decoupled from your outer wall, so you're fine! :) Unless you're planning on connecting the stud wall to the brick? wall for structural reasons.In that case you would benefit from the RC as that would help decouple your wallboard from the frame and outer wall.
hope this helps

cheers
Kind regards
Sen
Julián Fernández
Posts: 128
Joined: Sat Oct 09, 2004 3:23 am
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Post by Julián Fernández »

Hey Sen! Thanks to KF i found the incredible site of USG, and checking his walls insulation projects i thought that the one shown below was the better for me... I know that i can not make it exactly that way beacuase i already have a brick wall and i don´t want a triple leaf wall, but i was wondering if i can use this model but taking the back gypsum panel and putting it in front of the frame... (i mean to layers of gypsum on one side, none on the other).
Let me know what you think...
btw, i don´t want to connect the frame to the wall, not al all! :)
Sen
Posts: 277
Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2003 11:07 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Post by Sen »

Hello Julian,
Yeah that's fine, your theory of mass-air-mass is correct.You want to take the layer off the back of the frame and attach it to the front....that's all good.The more layers you have (more mass) the better.
But, you don't need the RC-1 pictured in your post, because you're not connecting the stud wall with the brick wall.
You would use that method if such a wall (like in that picture) was the ONLY wall between two spaces you want to isolate!In that respect the Rc would help you.
let us know if it's clear enough :)
cheers mate
Kind regards
Sen
Julián Fernández
Posts: 128
Joined: Sat Oct 09, 2004 3:23 am
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Post by Julián Fernández »

Thanks Sen! I understood your point... :wink:
Which is the best way to "attach" the wool to the frame?
Should i glue the gypsum boards to the frame or use screws?
Thanks!!!
Sen
Posts: 277
Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2003 11:07 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Post by Sen »

Julián Fernández wrote: Which is the best way to "attach" the wool to the frame?
Julian,
What stud spacing do you have on your walls.Are they in place yet or are you about to start construction?
The good thing would be if the stud spacing was just a little bit narrower (10-15 mm) than the width of your wool panels, so you could pack the wool nicely in between the studs.To stop the wool from falling out at the back of the studs, you could probably stretch some "strings" (wire) across the back of the frame.See Paul's studio building pics here:
(scroll down to about half the page, picture taken from behind the stud wall)
http://forum.studiotips.com/viewtopic.p ... &start=800
Should i glue the gypsum boards to the frame or use screws?
Well it all depends how you arrange your layers of drywall,mdf, etc. whatever you'll be putting on there.Read this thread, it's all about that :)
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... highlight=

I would also highly recommend downloading this .pdf "Gypsum Construction Handbook"!! It's got most of things in there you will need :)
http://www.usg.com/Expert_Advice/Constr ... ge=english

cheers
Kind regards
Sen
Julián Fernández
Posts: 128
Joined: Sat Oct 09, 2004 3:23 am
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Post by Julián Fernández »

Thanks Sen! Great info! I didn´t started the construction of the frame, so i´ll do it like you said (btw, it´s pretty logical! :roll:)
Thanks for the links, they´re great! I already downloaded the manual, tomorrow i´ll start the reading! I´ll let you know if i have another doubt! :D
Sen
Posts: 277
Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2003 11:07 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Post by Sen »

Julián Fernández wrote:Thanks Sen! Great info! I didn´t started the construction of the frame, so i´ll do it like you said (btw, it´s pretty logical! :roll:)
Good.Don't start any major work untill you've got everything planned out.You really don't wanna stuff anything up, so take your time.I know we all get pretty excited about getting stuff done in our studios, but it's really worth waiting a while and knowing in advance what the next thing that you have to do will be.
:)
Thanks for the links, they´re great!
I'm glad you liked the info.
let us know how everything pans out.
cheers
Kind regards
Sen
Julián Fernández
Posts: 128
Joined: Sat Oct 09, 2004 3:23 am
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Post by Julián Fernández »

I agree with you Sen about planning everything before starting construction... That´s why i´m updating my plans every week, because i keep reading and every day i understand a little more of that great thing -designing and building my studio-.
So, do u think that i have to make any changes to my walls plan?
The design is the showned (brick walls coated, 10cm air gap, 10cm wood frame), i should mount the first layer using half as many screws as normal and the outer layer should have full fastening schedule used... I´ll buy 60kg/m3 density rockwool to fill the frame...
Now i think that i´m ready to start thinking about the floor and how to seal the wall frame to avoid contact with the floor...
Any other thing to remember?
Thanks!
Sen
Posts: 277
Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2003 11:07 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Post by Sen »

Hi Julian,
Yeah your plan should be OK like that.You have a great air gap there 200mm :shock: that should improve your isolation rather significantly :). I'm just thinking of the rockwool density....60 kg/m3 could be ok, but I'm thinking that a bit lower density would perform better?maybe around 50kg/m3.Hope someone will chime in to give us their opinion on this one.But I think around 50 is pretty much it.Steve, anyone else? :)
Julian let us know what you're planning for your floor.Might get some good ideas from you :P

cheers
Kind regards
Sen
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