gullfo wrote:as a general note, assuming a decoupled wall set, you would also have the windows installed on each wall and also separated so as not to bridge the walls. the small air gap between window jambs can be sealed with caulk or simply masked with cloth. after one window is installed, add the desiccant unit(s) then install the other window. remember to clean the insides of each window before installing it
Will do Glen. Thanks. Sealing the small air gap between window jams is a great idea. The inside glass will be at a slight angle towards the control room. Meaning at the bottom there's 5 inches of space between the two windows. 6 inches at the top.
I am assured that due to the amount of insulation in all the walls and rubber under the flooring, the studio temperature will be very stable and condensation on the glass won't be an issue. I'm still sealing the gap.
Last edited by Sinclair on Wed Jan 26, 2022 4:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
DanDan wrote:Hi Paul. Could you clarify please? Surely two different thicknesses with a damping layer is better than two equal thicknesses with a damping layer when the overall thickness is greater?
Of course, it really comes down to how much isolation do you need, how much space can you afford between the panes, and how much are you willing to spend? 19mm glass is stupidly expensive compared to 15mm, just as 15mm is stupidly expensive compared to 8mm... providing that the thinnest pane meets the required isolation for the leaf in which it is installed (unless we're talking concrete blocks, in which case - good luck), there will be small gains by using a thicker pane for the second leaf, but at much greater cost and perhaps unnecessarily. The coincident dip is a non issue with such thick panes with the damping plastic layer.
And an interesting selection of recent INSUL simulations so you can make up your own mind (sorry for the low resolution but this site will not let me upload high res images) - it all seems to be six of one and half a dozen of the other, yet some are much better value than others:
I've drawn up a sketch to show a simple way of building a double window which doesn't require any extra trim, keeps moisture out by use of a neoprene gasket acting as a "cavity closer", and has a place to hide desiccant while still looking presentable. It's about the cheapest way I can think of building a decent window which remains fully decoupled. The thickness of the glass may vary depending on your needs. Anyway, I hope you find it useful and if anyone sees anything that can be improved then please let me know...
couple of tips - wear cotton gloves when installing. two - clean thoroughly the inside of the panes before sealing them up. the glass handling suction cup devices are also handy for maneuvering.
gullfo wrote:couple of tips - wear cotton gloves when installing. two - clean thoroughly the inside of the panes before sealing them up. the glass handling suction cup devices are also handy for maneuvering.
